66LikesHot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
09-06-2015, 05:37 PM
#9826
Tech Adept
Hi all,
I'm after some help with my carpet setup. I run on a track with extremely high traction using pin points and under extreme braking one of my drive shafts at the front consistently pops out.
I'm running Ty's carpet setup except for the centre diff oil at 100000 instead of 50000. The drive shaft looks short with 1mm f/f and 2mm f/r spacers. The dog bone is only just holding on to the diff cups. At full compression, the bottom arm of the dog bone leaves the cup.
A 78mm drive would solve my problem but I haven't found onto that will fit the d413.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks.
I'm after some help with my carpet setup. I run on a track with extremely high traction using pin points and under extreme braking one of my drive shafts at the front consistently pops out.
I'm running Ty's carpet setup except for the centre diff oil at 100000 instead of 50000. The drive shaft looks short with 1mm f/f and 2mm f/r spacers. The dog bone is only just holding on to the diff cups. At full compression, the bottom arm of the dog bone leaves the cup.
A 78mm drive would solve my problem but I haven't found onto that will fit the d413.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks.
09-09-2015, 09:21 AM
#9829
Not really... yea the deck and bracing needs to be removed.
You could try unscrewing the decks and brace mount back to deck and then remove diff case from the chassis.
I can usually get the front done in about 15-20mins if only doing that one. When I do the rear diff it takes about 20mins as well. I've never had to change them both during racing, but its possible to do between rounds based on how many cars your running.
You could try unscrewing the decks and brace mount back to deck and then remove diff case from the chassis.
I can usually get the front done in about 15-20mins if only doing that one. When I do the rear diff it takes about 20mins as well. I've never had to change them both during racing, but its possible to do between rounds based on how many cars your running.
09-10-2015, 12:06 PM
#9830
There's a lot of slop in the linkage between the servo horn and the steering rack. Has anyone tried the TLR 22 steering linkage?
09-10-2015, 02:06 PM
#9831
Replacing those 2 ball studs with xray ball studs completely eliminates that slop. I only replaced those 2 because the xray studs are slightly tight in the HB ball cups. Replacing the studs on the rest of the suspension turnbuckles makes them want to bind and the suspension doesn't move as free as it should. Having just those 2 ball studs slightly tight just adds a very little resistance that the steering servo needs to overcome. But it's totally worth it for the amount of slop it takes out of the steering.
09-10-2015, 06:08 PM
#9832
Replacing those 2 ball studs with xray ball studs completely eliminates that slop. I only replaced those 2 because the xray studs are slightly tight in the HB ball cups. Replacing the studs on the rest of the suspension turnbuckles makes them want to bind and the suspension doesn't move as free as it should. Having just those 2 ball studs slightly tight just adds a very little resistance that the steering servo needs to overcome. But it's totally worth it for the amount of slop it takes out of the steering.
Do you happen to have the part # for those xray ball studs?
09-10-2015, 06:08 PM
#9833
What brand of machined pistons work best in the d413
09-10-2015, 07:33 PM
#9834
09-11-2015, 04:21 AM
#9837
Replacing those 2 ball studs with xray ball studs completely eliminates that slop. I only replaced those 2 because the xray studs are slightly tight in the HB ball cups. Replacing the studs on the rest of the suspension turnbuckles makes them want to bind and the suspension doesn't move as free as it should. Having just those 2 ball studs slightly tight just adds a very little resistance that the steering servo needs to overcome. But it's totally worth it for the amount of slop it takes out of the steering.
09-11-2015, 04:34 AM
#9838
I'm sure there are studd/cups that work as well like you are saying.
09-11-2015, 05:33 AM
#9839
Yea. Maybe I described it poorly. In the short steering linkage there really isn't any binding. Just a tight enough fit that the ball studs don't move around in the freely. They don't flop around under their own weight any more and it tightens it all up.
I'm sure there are studd/cups that work as well like you are saying.
I'm sure there are studd/cups that work as well like you are saying.
09-11-2015, 05:37 AM
#9840