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Originally Posted by Mullet1
(Post 12891523)
Couple quick photos. Threw a single color candy green on it for the first body.
Body is NARROW. will take some getting used to. Losi 2.0 truggy body beside. http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/...psta8tbar4.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/...psn6tebnef.jpg |
Originally Posted by mydudrevo
(Post 12891687)
I'm sure it's possible but do you think a mbx6t or losi 2.0t body could fit it because that body is just a little to slim for my liking. I'm sure it will grow on me but right now it's not
Edit: to be fair it could just be the color I'm not a big fan of green I'm sure with a nice paint scheme or just black or white it would look better to me. not knocking your paint job mullet. Are you going out to mikes this weekend with the new truggy? I'd like to take a look at it they look awesome. I think other bodies will fit on it, just need different holes. |
Originally Posted by mavdriver
(Post 12891572)
guys by all means i`m not a tekin represintive guy but i own 2 gen2 rx8 owner with a gen 1 1500 kv motor and a gen 2 1700 kv truggy motors , the 1500 kv have ran flawless for me and i run my truggy hard on an outdoors track , the 1700 kv i`m saving for the ET8 truggy i`m getting , I live in SOCAL and it gets very hot in the summer 100 plus degrees , with no issues , so i might just be the lucky guy thats not having any problems so what gives , could it be some of you guys that are having issues are over gearing the motors causing the esc and motor to get to hot ? also do you check that nothing is binding in the center drive front drive rear drive all that needs to be free , also check if your diff have oil just a question dont get mad ? i seen it happen my bud is guilty of this he ran his buggy with the diff dry ! guess what he couln`t drive his buggy cause the front diff with seized witch could cause the esc to fail anyways something to think about in some cases it could be the users fault that creates the problem they are having with their esc and motor problems wither is Castle , Tekin , Novak , Hobbywing , etc all I`m saying none is perfect but considered this some of it is human error .
As for the rx8 (either) well you know what they say even a broken clock is correct twice a day.. there are always better batches, nothing in electronics is created equal, the quality on some parts are always going to be in an "acceptable" range some higher some lower but as long as they are close to spec and make the cut it gets out. |
I think any other body would feel like an SC body on there. :p
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3 Attachment(s)
Just finished mine had to throw a quick paint job on it and I haven't got the extension for servo wire yet so the receiver case isn't screwed on. Just a few build notes I'm sure its been mentioned but just in case the diff shims are different. Alonso on all my tekno kits I take my shock spring adjustment nuts and thread them on upside down first it helps break in the oring so it threads on easier the correct way. The plastic shock ends I generally take a body reamer and remove a very slight bit from the inside edge to help it start threading on then I take the large end of the shock stand off and thread it onto it for a few turns makes it a lot easier to install. I also find the nut for the servo saver that connects the steering linkage and install ahead of time saves a lot of headaches as well
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Originally Posted by kawi650
(Post 12890015)
Tower now shows the the truck is in stock, I hope to be getting a notification that my backorder is shipping out soon. :D
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Placed my orders last month and it looks like mine is being processed now. I hope they applied my 100.00 discount.
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As far as escs go, viper vtx8 and the 150a hw, enough said. Tekin makes great motors but there rx8 gen 1 and 2 are so hit and miss I wouldnt even waist my time or money on them. My viper has been the best most durable esc I have ever owned. I have 6 of them and use 4s 5s 6s racing and bashing and its been an investment and has become an asset. The hw 150a is just as good but in my opinion its not as durable.
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Originally Posted by scorpion51503
(Post 12891997)
Just finished mine had to throw a quick paint job on it and I haven't got the extension for servo wire yet so the receiver case isn't screwed on. Just a few build notes I'm sure its been mentioned but just in case the diff shims are different. Alonso on all my tekno kits I take my shock spring adjustment nuts and thread them on upside down first it helps break in the oring so it threads on easier the correct way. The plastic shock ends I generally take a body reamer and remove a very slight bit from the inside edge to help it start threading on then I take the large end of the shock stand off and thread it onto it for a few turns makes it a lot easier to install. I also find the nut for the servo saver that connects the steering linkage and install ahead of time saves a lot of headaches as well
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Originally Posted by GrimReminder
(Post 12892208)
Im sorry tekno....I love you guys and youre products but damn, that is just to damn skinny for me. Im gonna mount the sct410 mudguards and run a wider body. Cant wait to see what you guys come with for the nt48.
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Hi everybody,
I haven't had a chance to go through and update any of the first posts on the Tekno threads. My wife and I just had our second child so I've been pretty busy and not sleeping as much as I'd like :) I plan on adding more tips/tricks, optional products, etc. to the first posts over the weekend. If you have something specific you'd like to see on the first post, send me a pm (some already have :)) and I'll do my best to get it up. Matt |
Originally Posted by scorpion51503
(Post 12891997)
Just finished mine had to throw a quick paint job on it and I haven't got the extension for servo wire yet so the receiver case isn't screwed on. Just a few build notes I'm sure its been mentioned but just in case the diff shims are different. Alonso on all my tekno kits I take my shock spring adjustment nuts and thread them on upside down first it helps break in the oring so it threads on easier the correct way. The plastic shock ends I generally take a body reamer and remove a very slight bit from the inside edge to help it start threading on then I take the large end of the shock stand off and thread it onto it for a few turns makes it a lot easier to install. I also find the nut for the servo saver that connects the steering linkage and install ahead of time saves a lot of headaches as well
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Originally Posted by teknorc
(Post 12892236)
Bodies are very subjective and we realize not everyone will love the ET48 body. But as far as performance is concerned, we had to hug the mud guards and thus make the body very narrow. A wider body would have let too much air underneath and would affect jumping and straight-line speed. Since we're all about performance we opted for the narrowest body possible.
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That Truggy looks SICK! I've been considering getting into 1/8th scale but there aren't any local tracks that allow 1/8th scale. So I've been reluctant but I think this ride might just make it necessary to build my own track in my backyard so that I have somewhere to run!
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Originally Posted by teknorc
(Post 12892236)
Bodies are very subjective and we realize not everyone will love the ET48 body. But as far as performance is concerned, we had to hug the mud guards and thus make the body very narrow. A wider body would have let too much air underneath and would affect jumping and straight-line speed. Since we're all about performance we opted for the narrowest body possible.
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
(Post 12892248)
Hi everybody,
I haven't had a chance to go through and update any of the first posts on the Tekno threads. My wife and I just had our second child so I've been pretty busy and not sleeping as much as I'd like :) I plan on adding more tips/tricks, optional products, etc. to the first posts over the weekend. If you have something specific you'd like to see on the first post, send me a pm (some already have :)) and I'll do my best to get it up. Matt i was thinking white and yellow paint and i'm now conviced it's the way to go. |
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