I built my ET48.3 about 2 months ago, and I used the aluminum diff cups from M2C Racing. I have all 3. I have them in my SCT410.3 and EB48.4 also. I went to change out the diff oil in the front for the first time, and i noticed that it had been leaking inside the front bulkhead some. After investigation, i found that the out drive on the ring gear side has some play in it. I can wiggle it back and forth a noticeable amount compared to any of my other Tekno diffs, and it definitely has more play in it than I think it should. Just wondering if anyone else has ever had that problem? It doesn't appear that the shaft on the out drive is worn down any, or the hole in the ring gear. Wondering if maybe the hole was just machined slightly bigger, but then I would assume lots of people would see the problem. I rebuilt the diff with new orings/fluid and will check it again after my next run.

Wow...No way!...I just rebuilt mine over Thanksgiving after running them for about three races worth of driving. I too run all three, I've found the same with fluid leaking out. For me it was coming outta the 4 screws..??? I know I tightened them correctly the first round.. my center didn't have any issues.??Less diff out, so less stress..?

So after cleaning and filling I used plumbers tape and wrapped the screws to see if this will help them from backing out and as a sealer for the screw itself.

ET48.3 W/M2C chassis and diff's, Tekin Gen3 ESC & 2000kv T8, Savox1270TG,SMC7200mah,90c. 15/10/7 diff's.

Interesting....pop..pop

I haven't had any issues with any of the screws backing out, and the diff cases dont seem to be giving me any issues in any 3 of my Teknos that I have them in. I just seem to have a lot more play in one out of 18 diff out drives that I currently have. And it's on the gear side, not the diff cup side so it cant really have anything to do with the aftermarket M2C diffs. I haven't had a chance to run it since I rebuilt the 3 in the ET48.3 a few days back, but I'm sure it's going to leak slowly again.... I just wish I knew if it was a manufacturing defect or if I somehow wore one out drive out like crazy....

Finally! I am going to broke thanks to you guys. Already earmarking funds for the NB48 and now this..

Has anyone heard about the ET48.4? I keep hearing rumors that a new version is supposed to be coming out but then never does. Im considering spending the extra on the new Mugen MBX8TE for that updated platform, pillow ball setup and more graphite and carbon fiber, but I do intend to bash with the vehicle as much as race and I know Teknos are better at bashing so Im at an impass currently.

Regardless of which truggy I end up with, the electronics will be the same: Tekin RX8 and 2000KV motor combo with Protek PTK-170SBL Servo. Will run on SMC Racing 4S 7400mAH 90C battery and will be wired entirely with 10AWG cable from Motor to ESC to Batt and will use S6 Supra connectors for ultimate amperage handling with little to no heat. The RX8 ESC will be waterproofed.

The idea is to build a vehicle that races fairly well and bashes fairly well but is perfect at neither. I am also going to set it up in such a way that the only tuning needed to go from racing to bashing is to simply add more preload to the springs, swap out wheels and tires, and swap the pinion gear. This way it can go back and forth from bashing to racing and vise versa in just a couple minutes.

it's only a matter of time until Tekno either releases a ET48.4 containing the same updates that the .4 EB has, unless they test it and the changes dont benefit the existing design. Then they would wait until there is a major redesign I assume. Unlike many other brands Tekno doesnt come out with new cars every year with a couple slightly different parts and a higher price just to make more money. If something works great they stick with it... I wouldnt he surprised if it's another year before a .4 version comes out, and even longer if they wait till a major redesign is in store...

I just hope its sometime soon. Im hoping to have a truggy built and ready to go by the time Spring rolls around and everything dries up.

I just won an SMC 2100 kv motor at our local tracks last race, Would this motor have enough power for the truggy, if so what gearing would be recommended.

the mbx8te only uses CF on the steering upright arm, for bashing you may want to stay away from the pillow balls they can get dirty and affect the suspension/steering. that being said the hinge pins on the on the mbx8te may hold up better due to the pillowball setup (upper arms)

If I remember correctly, the SMC 2100KV is a 1/8th Scale Buggy Motor, correct? If so, there should be no issues running it even if it is not specifically a Truggy Motor. The only difference is, the longer cans of Truggy-Specific Motors give those motors a longer rotor assembly, which means stronger magnets and therefore more torque to get the heavier vehicle with the bigger tires moving.

Otherwise, 1/8th Scale Buggy and Truggy Motors are essentially identical. Since you are missing out on some of the low-end torque that a truggy motor provides, you wont be able to be competitive in a 1/8th Scale Truggy Race Event. However, it should be able to bash without too many issues, just be sure to gear it fairly low to make up for the lack of torque.

Hmmm, I will have to keep this in mind, thank you.

Yes you will be fine, i ran it and the 1900 motor for a long time in my MBX7T-eco. Start with the included 15t and go from there, stock setup is always a safe start.

Not really. I run a 1900kv Tekin buggy motor and have never felt like I was giving anything up. In fact, I think the truggy motors almost make too much power resulting in them being harder to drive.

I have both a short tekin 2650kv buggy motor and a longer 2250kv tekin truggy motor. Before I bought them a few months back I asked Tekin these same questions. Between what they told me and what I have found myself is yes, the truggy version technically does make a bit more torque, but all of the motors are so powerful it's not something that is really noticed on track anyway, as most everyone, myself included actually turns down the torque settings on the ESC for racing anyway to limit wheelspin. The main advantage to the longer truggy motor is heat dissipation. These motors generate quite a bit of heat pushing heavy truggies around with the bigger tires than the buggies, so having the larger can and heatsink on the truggy version helps keep temps down better. The key thing is running the proper gearing, but as far as power, the difference would be hard to notice unless you are just doing drag racing on road or something like that. All 3 of my 1/8 scale tekin motors have more power than I can use on any track I've ever been to, thus turning it down some actually helps lap times. Plus the less heat you create, the less power you are wasting...

After reading this thread and all the bash videos I finally pulled the trigger and said good bye to my wallet and picked up one of these truggys. The build was pretty fun it was my first complete build, Tekno does a good job on the instructions and packaging. Question I am running the new Gen3 Tekin 2000kv motor and ESC, what size pinion is everyone finding is a good size for racing and bashing around a bit? I picked up a 15t but I am not sure about it, and it seems the 15t is allowing the motor to hit the front chassis brace. Also for racing is the M2C rear horizontal stiffener needed?