Just picked up a used ET48 and have a couple of Q's...

Does anyone have a screw kit for the ET48 (non stainless)?

The drive shafts have quite a bit of rust. I can clean it off with WD40/Blue scrubber but it leaves them without any protection. Is there a paint that I can use to re-paint the rusted metal parts after cleaning them up?

Thanks,
Dennis

I buy most of my screws for all the various kits from:
https://www.boltdepot.com

The nice thing there is you can order 1 or 1000, unlike some of the other sites. 12.9 steel black oxide.

I wouldn't stress on the drive shafts personally. The minimal amounts of surface contamination would have no impact on the durability. If you're concerned about the visual appearance, maybe someone could make a suggestion.

Thanks RokelM!

Yea, I hate rust! I used WD40 and a blue scouring pad to remove the rust, cleaned with contact cleaner/alcohol and repainted with flat hi-heat spray paint. Worked pretty good:

Looking good! Let's see how it holds up to wear and tear.

Simple fact many people miss in our hobby. While Simple Green is an awesome cleaner, environmentally friendly, etc... It also causes rust, especially when left on the surface over time. It also severely deteriorates tire foams over time. I cringe a little when I see people using it straight from the bottle. Personally I only use 1 parts to 5 water or less during cleaning and always ensure things are dry when done.

I read a while back that lutz uses endust or pledge to clean his plastics. Anyone remember what it was?

It's not cleaning, but endust does restore a "shine" to plastics as well as some dust prevention. Dust seems to blow off with a compressor much easier and doesn't attach to the surface. If you're in moisture however, it's going to adhere regardless.

Hi a few more quick questions:

I was considering this esc and motor setup for the et48.3

Mamba Monster X and 2200 KV Motor Combo

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Castle-Creat...EAAOSw4hdXH9Ng

I'd like to keep the ESC and motor waterproof.

My setup will be mainly 4s so I need a 2200 kv motor or 2000kv motor i think.

Is there a water proof Tekin brushless 2200 KV motor I could use with the Mamba ESC?

I think I would prefer a motor with terminal posts for soldering on the wires. This may eliminate problems. I've had some problems with motors rubbing the insulation off the wires at the connection point.

Or is there another good waterproof ESC motor combo with soldering posts?

ESC must support 7.4 volt output for servos and 4s-6s lipos.

I don't want to waterproof the ESC myself.

Also would I need RC8T wheel hub extenders for monster truck tires on the ET48.3?

I'm condisering these tires:

http://www.nitrorcx.com/mad-wc1043.html

Anyone know the dimension of these tires?

Thanks if anyone can answer my questions.

No, Tekno 2mm hexes work for all the MT tires I've run.

So large MT tires like trenchers won't rub the body or sides or anything?

I've run 3.8 Blockades, MT4's, & SRC Terrain Crushers w/no issues. You may get a very slight rub on the A-arm, but you can adjust your EPA to prevent it. The ET is wide & body is narrow, the tires come no where near the body, even w/6s ballooning.

question for you guys, with the et48.3 if you are using castles Mamba Monster X ESC, does it have enough room to run a sensor wire to the motor, say a Tekin truggy motor?

Mainly wanting to make sure there is plenty of space between the motor and the esc to not have the sensor wire "bump" the esc.

Final setup questions
 

Hi everyone,
Just ordered an et48.3 for my son and looking for some setup advice while the mail arrives. Here's what we have:

Tekin 2250kv truggy motor
Tekin rx8 and Hotwire 2.0
Spektrum s6280
Badlands 3.8" tires on desperado wheels
4s Great hobbies 6500mah 50c lipo's

It's difficult to find a setup sheet for the rx8 with the 2250kv truggy motor, any suggestions on what I should run? Want it to spin a little on launch but hook and go. This will be a basher and I picked up both a 15t and 17t pinion, am I on the right track and which should I start with or do you have other suggestions? I think I am going to use Joe's setup on the truck itself.

Any other suggestions on tools or other parts I should order? I have an aluminium servo horn and the mud guards as well. Sorry if this has been answered but this is a HUGE thread. Thinking this is going to be a fun truck, build hopefully starts next Friday providing it gets shipped. First kit since my Schumacher top cat, everything else has been RTR since then

unless the truck has changed, the 2250kv motor may be a bit much with the gearing that is possible with the truck. 2000kv would have been a better choice IMHO. I'd say start with a 15T pinion first.

If you can rig an inner body that can help keep things clean inside.

Not sure if the ET48 has this issue, but you may need the tekno +2mm offset hexes if you notice any odd rubbing from the wheels on the hubs. At least on my previous DEX8T truggy, it had a zero style offset hex and the desperado wheels seem to have a deep hex.

Removed (double posted)

I run the 2000 with a 17t pinion, so the 2250 on 15t should be a good starting point. You may need to shave the center brace a little to make 15t fit, but maybe that's just 14t, I can't remember. Joe's setup is a good place to start if you like steering with throttle (a little bit of drift type action). You can see many of my preferred upgrades in my ET48.3 build tips video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGsYCB5UHyI
(sorry if that isn't the exact one of the series, 'net is pretty useless where I am for the next week or so)

But not mentioned there I would highly recommend the Delrin shock shaft guides as well. They're smoother for suspension and easier to build with.

Lastly, make sure the screw going into the rear brace, down into the rear bulkhead, is longer, such as a 14mm or 15mm. The 10mm that comes with the kit is a little short for bashing or heavy crashing duty, and can end up cracking the rear bulkhead eventually. You might even go with a 16mm and a washer on top of the brace to help everything be as sturdy as possible there for bashing.