bring it on

iTrader: (11)

stock for me

Maxxican

iTrader: (67)

How often are you guys changing them. Mine seem to be swelling a lot. New set only lasting about a month. Then feel tight (friction). That's only racing 2 Sunday's a month.

rcgerber

iTrader: (8)

It depends on the environment I'm racing in. If my car is caked (which does happen from time to time) I always replace them when I go through the car, but if I've been racing in doors with just some dust I'll go a couple months. What do you use to lube the o-rings? I use a liberal coating of Noleen SF3 (similar to AE green slime) and my o-rings don't seem to swell at all. I think in one of the HobbyPro threads someone did find a x-ring that fit, but I don't recall what manufacturer or thread.

Maxxican

iTrader: (67)

Racing mostly outdoors. Use green slime

HarsDad

iTrader: (-1)

If I run full size packs, can I run mid motor? Currently it's set to rm and I only have one shorty. 6 full size packs

HarsDad

iTrader: (-1)

Like a monkey on the computer, I swear! He raced stock with it and I'm really hoping it has the light weight top shaft. How can I tell? It's posting pics I'm not even choosing!

markt311

iTrader: (34)

You do have the aluminum top shaft. Full size packs wont fit, shorty's are cheap. smc 4400 is like $33.

HarsDad

iTrader: (-1)

Sweet thanks markt

sealander

iTrader: (11)

does anyone know the front kick degree for the v3?

when I use the closest hole to the shocks on the steering knuckle, full steering is limited because the steering link hits the spring cup, anyone notice that?

gdudley

iTrader: (2)

I am wandering what the short comings of this buggy are. What spares to keep around? Im currently running the xb4 4wd and xb4 2wd, and am considering a brand change.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Instead of the green slime, use DOW55. It's the only purpose engineered lubricant for O-rings. Many others will work but they aren't specifically developed for O-rings.

Dow55 has conditioning and swelling components to maximize O-ring life and efficiency. While O-rings might look perfectly round, most are not and thus, the added swelling properties of Dow55 help make up for it. Additionally, to properly lubricate O-rings, you are supposed to place lube in their slot and then place the O-ring, then place a sparing amount of lube to create a superior seal. It sounds like a bit much for a measly little part, but I assure you all, this is how it's supposed to be done and you will enjoy longer life with all your O-rings and improved performance and efficiency.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Thye "ONLY" thing I'd suggest is to buy spare Tranny Case as well as the CF brace for it. The tranny case is the only part I've broken and it's just the ears for the inner mount of the rear turnbuckle. The brace reduces the likelihood you will break it but I'd still have a spare.

I'd also get the Aluminum Hexes as running aftermarket wheels can lead to slight binding because the stock plastic ones flex. You can place a 4mm washer in between thought to free it right up if you prefer to go that route,


Both can be bought from CRPPLUS.COM
Tranny Case: http://www.casterracingparts.com/ind...product_id=487
Brace: http://www.casterracingparts.com/ind...product_id=847

marcel p

I broke some steering blockt also
Maybe the pro blocks ar stronger

marcel p

Question
I have some problems tomget maximum steering throw to the left.
Also the speed of the throw seems diferent from right and left
Anny tips .
Got it all nice and centered but im mising somthing i think

sealander

iTrader: (11)

I struggled with the steering to. I suggest setup the steering links the same length. make the link from servo horn to the steering rack like the directions. center your servo settings in your controller. lastly fit the servo horn on the servo spindle, it'll probably be a couple of clicks to the left, not vertical. then use you subtrim to fine tune it straight, then set your enpoints.

do your steering links hit your shock caps limiting full steering?