the front are a little stiffer. You may want to rebuild with TLR oil.

Thanks for getting those outdoor setup starting points.

I think the 8 hole pistons should absorb some of the rough better and keep the buggy planted.

Does the new e3.0 body shell fit on the e2.0 ?
Really starting to like the new shell

Sorry but the new car is much narrower than the old and thus the body will not fit.

That body is uglier than two dudes! I'm patiently awaiting any companies aftermarket body.

How will the car do “heavy” indoors? Would a 3S compensate for the weight from a T8i and shorty packs? Or too much performance lost with a 1950kv? The spline on Spectrum is the same as JR, correct? Thanks!

Starting my build tonight!

I've got a Neu 1512 Finned motor which is 44MM in diameter.

Will this fit in the 3.0E or am I limited to 42MM diameter motors like the Castle and Tekin?

If it fits, do I still have the same flexibility in spur/pinion sizes as with the 42MM motors or do I have to use the 45T spur?

That did the trick. The 37.5 wt. oil from the kit looked more like 60 wt.

ryan how do you get the 10 degree kick in the front for indoor racing just started my build .kit looks amazing.

Thanks Ryan

Put 0 inserts(instead of the stock 1) in both blocks for the front end.

You need to put 0 inserts in the front inner and front outer blocks and those inserts are in the bag of extras.

thanks guys doing it now

Ran my buggy for the first time last night. Compared to my SCTE 2.0, it has a bad push, but did get a little better by the end of the night. I'm running the box setup, but, with 0 inserts in the front of the car. I need, either, to tighten up the front or loosen up the rear. What would you suggest I do to accomplish this?

Try 3k in the rear