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TLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD

TLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD

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Old 06-12-2014, 10:58 PM
  #2131  
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Guys,

I am just completing the build on my 3.0 and have a few questions;

1. I realized that there is a 1mm + movement of the A arms on the inner hinge pins (close to gear box) on rear clip. Is this normal that it moves back and forth a bit? I went ahead and put in a 1.25mm plastic washer in front to stop this and I guess it would keep the wheelbase also pushed pack to the max as well. Is this OK?

2. In order to get 3 deg of toe in and 3 deg of anti-squat on rear clip I have used #1 inserts on the front of rear clip in the UP position and #0 inserts on the rear of the rear clip in the middle position. Is this correct? as manual doesn't clearly say

3. I have got the optional dog-bone rear driveshafts and am wondering if I should fit them right away or use the stock ones first which I have already installed with the optional aluminum front and rear CV driveshaft axels (TLR3500)? what should I do?

Thanks
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Old 06-13-2014, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Sivaaji View Post
Guys,

I am just completing the build on my 3.0 and have a few questions;

1. I realized that there is a 1mm + movement of the A arms on the inner hinge pins (close to gear box) on rear clip. Is this normal that it moves back and forth a bit? I went ahead and put in a 1.25mm plastic washer in front to stop this and I guess it would keep the wheelbase also pushed pack to the max as well. Is this OK?
I would leave the play, you don't want any binding in the rear
2. In order to get 3 deg of toe in and 3 deg of anti-squat on rear clip I have used #1 inserts on the front of rear clip in the UP position and #0 inserts on the rear of the rear clip in the middle position. Is this correct? as manual doesn't clearly say
Correct
3. I have got the optional dog-bone rear driveshafts and am wondering if I should fit them right away or use the stock ones first which I have already installed with the optional aluminum front and rear CV driveshaft axels (TLR3500)? what should I do?
The dogbones will aid in rough track handling, if you run on a rough track put them in and try it out
Thanks
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Old 06-13-2014, 06:38 PM
  #2133  
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So, coming to the conclusion that no other bodies other than the standard one, JC Silencer and nitro bodies (with gaps around the sides) fit this car. Do you guys reckon it's possible to fit the plastic guards from the nitro chassis to the E-chassis?
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Old 06-13-2014, 07:42 PM
  #2134  
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Originally Posted by Cody102 View Post
So, coming to the conclusion that no other bodies other than the standard one, JC Silencer and nitro bodies (with gaps around the sides) fit this car. Do you guys reckon it's possible to fit the plastic guards from the nitro chassis to the E-chassis?
There was a guy at our last trophy race running a 3.0E with a 2.0E body on his. I didn't pay attention to see the gap or fitment though.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:03 AM
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Thanks Symetricon
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Old 06-15-2014, 01:49 AM
  #2136  
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Hey all, I had my first run with the 3.0e today... Grass racing!! Out of the box setup I found a little bit tail happy, so swapped out the standard rear bar for the softer 2.3mm bar, made it much easier to drive, didn't make any other changes for now.

The one issue I came across and it has happened to many before, I stripped the standard plastic spur in less than 5 minutes of run time... Ended up borrowing a 46t alloy one from someone's spare 2.0eu.

Overall. Very happy with the cars performance today. Very quick car in the right hands...
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Old 06-15-2014, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Cody102 View Post
Hey all, I had my first run with the 3.0e today... Grass racing!! Out of the box setup I found a little bit tail happy, so swapped out the standard rear bar for the softer 2.3mm bar, made it much easier to drive, didn't make any other changes for now.

The one issue I came across and it has happened to many before, I stripped the standard plastic spur in less than 5 minutes of run time... Ended up borrowing a 46t alloy one from someone's spare 2.0eu.

Overall. Very happy with the cars performance today. Very quick car in the right hands...
Do like most others, get the 45T metal spur gear.
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Old 06-15-2014, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Salkin View Post
Do like most others, get the 45T metal spur gear.
That's the plan right now, running the 46t from the 2.0eu, I had to put 3mm of spacers under the 2 mounts to lift it up, otherwise the spur hit the chassis.

Running my 2100kv Orion VST2 46/15, coming off at 76 degrees celcius / 168 Fahrenheit. After only 6 minutes.... Drop back to a 14? Or is this temp normal?
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:03 AM
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What shock pistons do you guys run? If they are tapered ones which way does the taper go? Thanx
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Old 06-15-2014, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Salkin View Post
Regarding your #2 question, maybe Adam Drake ran the hinge pins from the 2.0, they are "golden" coated.

I have raced the E 3.0 for a while, and have changed the front hinge pins quite often. I admit I'm not a pro driver and crash more often, which is when the hinge pins bent.

I have replaced the hinge pins with the ones from the Mugen MBX7 Eco. The part number is:

Lower Arm Shaft. MBX-7 (E2115)

I have not bent them since I have changed to the Mugens.

You could try them to see if it helps you too.

They are a couple of mm shorter, but that is no problem. They also seems to be smoother than the Losi ones, even if they do not seem to be coated with any thing.
Hello, I would like to disagree that the E2115 fits the losi E3.0 I had them on my car this weekend and they were shorter for sure and they fell out in the Main.. It was a pretty big bummer. Would anyone know what pin options we have for this car???/
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Old 06-15-2014, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by toepush View Post
What shock pistons do you guys run? If they are tapered ones which way does the taper go? Thanx
I run the TLR Tapered pistons. Splits in the rear. Tapered up all the way around. Swapped the silver springs in the rear for green springs. 45/40 F/R shock oil. 2.3 sway in the rear and 2.5 in the front. Buggy is super dialed. I run indoor clay, smooth, med bite.
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Old 06-15-2014, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 8ighteRun View Post
I run the TLR Tapered pistons. Splits in the rear. Tapered up all the way around. Swapped the silver springs in the rear for green springs. 45/40 F/R shock oil. 2.3 sway in the rear and 2.5 in the front. Buggy is super dialed. I run indoor clay, smooth, med bite.
I run on mostly mid western tracks that are dry and hard packed and rutted. What size pistons and tapper direction?
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Old 06-15-2014, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by toepush View Post
I run on mostly mid western tracks that are dry and hard packed and rutted. What size pistons and tapper direction?
If it were me I would stick with the TLR tapered 8 hole 1.3 fronts and TLR Tapered 8 hole 1.2/1.3 split rears and tune from there. Try flipping the tapers in the front and run it. Then flip the rear and run it. Then try flipping them all and see what happens.

UN4RACING has run the csi pistons if I remember right. Maybe he will chime in and help with some tuning options.
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 8ighteRun View Post
If it were me I would stick with the TLR tapered 8 hole 1.3 fronts and TLR Tapered 8 hole 1.2/1.3 split rears and tune from there. Try flipping the tapers in the front and run it. Then flip the rear and run it. Then try flipping them all and see what happens.

UN4RACING has run the csi pistons if I remember right. Maybe he will chime in and help with some tuning options.
My CSI were awesome taper down in the rough. Flat out I had the fastest set up at our trophy race. (very bumpy) But they were not very good on the big flat lander's on our last lay out. The rebound needed to be slower. The kit would get up set after slapping the ground. Flipping the tapers up may have fixed that though? To get it to quit getting upset I had to go up to 45/45 then the kit was lousy every where else. I think if I had it to do again on a rough surface I would stick with the tapered down on a rough track for sure. The kit was dialed with 35/TLR all the way around.

I just finished my build on my new kit. I was going to run the battery forward but decided to can that Idea and just run the battery full forward with the option 40g ballast.
On this kit I am going to run the flat 1.3 front 8 hole and flat 1.2/1.3 rears and if I change the kit to much I wont know how the pistons are working. Table testing the kit with TLR 35/30 it feels great. The pack and rebound feel more the same. The rear is a bit slower on the rebound but I bet TLR 27.5 would be a perfect balance rebound speed wise front to rear. My buddy bought my old one so we will be able to do some pretty good testing one from the other. The 5 hole kit pistons would be fine on a high bite track but our track is kinda choppy. Looking forward to this weekend so I can run it. I can give more feed back then. Table testing I can visibly see I may like this set up better?? We'll see.
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:01 PM
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How r u building your shocks dead or with rebound? What csi pistons?
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