Yes, that pack will fit, just make sure to rotate it until the body clears the cables.

thanks i found the body ready to paint it it fits with the battery all the way back on tray but then i can only use two straps to hold battery it seems to hold the battery ok

So I've been reading up on the e conversion kit but only really found that the conversion may have to be set up differently.

I plan on converting my RTR/3.0 to eBuggy and switch back and forth.

What type of setup changes are we talking about in regards to this conversion? Can I just go and run the stock eBuggy setup. I already have the eBuggy shock towers (extra camber link mounting locations on the shock tower FTW).

Is it just poof, instant 3.0 eBuggy or are there limitations? I think I read something about the battery mounting position but I can't find it again.

Thanks in advance.

Ok guys haven’t ran 1/8 in about 4 years now. Have a 3.0e that is all stock I picked up. Know the 4.0 is out yes. Still need to get a LiPo for it. What is the biggest size or a good battery that fits with out modifications to make a 10 min main. Als have a tekin 1900 gen2 motor. What pinion is a good range to start with? Think I’ll notice a big difference in handling compared to the newer 4.0?

If you moved the battery forward you would be good to go.

We have a parking lot track being setup at my local hobby store. What weight diff oil and shock oil should I use for this type of surface. Will be running 1/8th buggy rims with some type of sticky street tire. 2200kv, 4s, 15/45 gearing.

Depends on how clean or dirty the surface is. Could be anywhere from 5-5-3 to 50-40-30.

Well... it's a parking lot 5 days a week. Granted not a heavily used one but still used. It's just blown off/swept off before the track is set up.

Anyone able to shed a bit of light on this?!?

hey just a general ? I bought my buggy used here on rctech and I think the guy ran it for one season and I put another 2 seasons on it with virtually no preventive maintenance, only things I did was replace parts that broke , hinge pins, shock shafts and such. well now im in process of going over it, so far ive changed diff fluids/gaskets/bearings and most of the bearings im coming across in the process, shock fluids, bent hinge pins, worn out cv/dog bones, couplers. anything else im missing? I didn't get to build it from new so this is my first e buggy so im kinda new to all this 4 wheel drive stuff. I mainly run stadium

Only thing I can add is check the diff outdrives for wear but looks like you have most of it covered.

thanks yea im working on that as we speak, the front was so bad last season, they popped out mid race (a main)

so I bought my e buddy used and and the guy before put red lock tight on age cv assembly/ drive shaft axle so it extremely hard to remove to replace bearings and cv. I was able to remove the front with a vice and lot of force and channel locks on the axle but of course I bent the dogbone/cv any other ideas on how to get the rear off? I dont own a torch or heat gun.. but if I have to buy one I will to save the axle nut (part where the nut threads on to)

Heat guns are a very cheap investment. You can use the tip of a solder iron to help remove loctite bolts and screws as well.

I need help on springs. I am needing some info on what springs to get for this. I am wanting either Kyosho or Tekno low bounce. What do you recommend?