TLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
#4141
Yes, that pack will fit, just make sure to rotate it until the body clears the cables.
#4142
Tech Initiate
thanks i found the body ready to paint it it fits with the battery all the way back on tray but then i can only use two straps to hold battery it seems to hold the battery ok
#4143
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
So I've been reading up on the e conversion kit but only really found that the conversion may have to be set up differently.
I plan on converting my RTR/3.0 to eBuggy and switch back and forth.
What type of setup changes are we talking about in regards to this conversion? Can I just go and run the stock eBuggy setup. I already have the eBuggy shock towers (extra camber link mounting locations on the shock tower FTW).
Is it just poof, instant 3.0 eBuggy or are there limitations? I think I read something about the battery mounting position but I can't find it again.
Thanks in advance.
I plan on converting my RTR/3.0 to eBuggy and switch back and forth.
What type of setup changes are we talking about in regards to this conversion? Can I just go and run the stock eBuggy setup. I already have the eBuggy shock towers (extra camber link mounting locations on the shock tower FTW).
Is it just poof, instant 3.0 eBuggy or are there limitations? I think I read something about the battery mounting position but I can't find it again.
Thanks in advance.
#4144
Tech Champion
iTrader: (76)
Ok guys haven’t ran 1/8 in about 4 years now. Have a 3.0e that is all stock I picked up. Know the 4.0 is out yes. Still need to get a LiPo for it. What is the biggest size or a good battery that fits with out modifications to make a 10 min main. Als have a tekin 1900 gen2 motor. What pinion is a good range to start with? Think I’ll notice a big difference in handling compared to the newer 4.0?
#4145
If you moved the battery forward you would be good to go.
#4146
We have a parking lot track being setup at my local hobby store. What weight diff oil and shock oil should I use for this type of surface. Will be running 1/8th buggy rims with some type of sticky street tire. 2200kv, 4s, 15/45 gearing.
#4147
Depends on how clean or dirty the surface is. Could be anywhere from 5-5-3 to 50-40-30.
#4148
Well... it's a parking lot 5 days a week. Granted not a heavily used one but still used. It's just blown off/swept off before the track is set up.
#4149
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
So I've been reading up on the e conversion kit but only really found that the conversion may have to be set up differently.
I plan on converting my RTR/3.0 to eBuggy and switch back and forth.
What type of setup changes are we talking about in regards to this conversion? Can I just go and run the stock eBuggy setup. I already have the eBuggy shock towers (extra camber link mounting locations on the shock tower FTW).
Is it just poof, instant 3.0 eBuggy or are there limitations? I think I read something about the battery mounting position but I can't find it again.
Thanks in advance.
I plan on converting my RTR/3.0 to eBuggy and switch back and forth.
What type of setup changes are we talking about in regards to this conversion? Can I just go and run the stock eBuggy setup. I already have the eBuggy shock towers (extra camber link mounting locations on the shock tower FTW).
Is it just poof, instant 3.0 eBuggy or are there limitations? I think I read something about the battery mounting position but I can't find it again.
Thanks in advance.
#4150
Tech Adept
hey just a general ? I bought my buggy used here on rctech and I think the guy ran it for one season and I put another 2 seasons on it with virtually no preventive maintenance, only things I did was replace parts that broke , hinge pins, shock shafts and such. well now im in process of going over it, so far ive changed diff fluids/gaskets/bearings and most of the bearings im coming across in the process, shock fluids, bent hinge pins, worn out cv/dog bones, couplers. anything else im missing? I didn't get to build it from new so this is my first e buggy so im kinda new to all this 4 wheel drive stuff. I mainly run stadium
#4151
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
hey just a general ? I bought my buggy used here on rctech and I think the guy ran it for one season and I put another 2 seasons on it with virtually no preventive maintenance, only things I did was replace parts that broke , hinge pins, shock shafts and such. well now im in process of going over it, so far ive changed diff fluids/gaskets/bearings and most of the bearings im coming across in the process, shock fluids, bent hinge pins, worn out cv/dog bones, couplers. anything else im missing? I didn't get to build it from new so this is my first e buggy so im kinda new to all this 4 wheel drive stuff. I mainly run stadium
#4152
Tech Adept
thanks yea im working on that as we speak, the front was so bad last season, they popped out mid race (a main)
#4153
Tech Adept
so I bought my e buddy used and and the guy before put red lock tight on age cv assembly/ drive shaft axle so it extremely hard to remove to replace bearings and cv. I was able to remove the front with a vice and lot of force and channel locks on the axle but of course I bent the dogbone/cv any other ideas on how to get the rear off? I dont own a torch or heat gun.. but if I have to buy one I will to save the axle nut (part where the nut threads on to)
#4154
Heat guns are a very cheap investment. You can use the tip of a solder iron to help remove loctite bolts and screws as well.
#4155
I need help on springs. I am needing some info on what springs to get for this. I am wanting either Kyosho or Tekno low bounce. What do you recommend?