My car was similar. I made some gains by changing the following: Short ackerman bar, shorty all the way forward, silver front springs, green rear springs, 2.7 rear roll bar, 2.3 front roll bar, went from 5000 to 7000 center diff oil, took out some front droop, rear links short and low on the shock tower.

With that being said, I have seen many guys running the car nearly box stock (including full size pack in stock position). It baffles me how they do it sometimes (be so fast with that setup). But I really think it's just a matter of preference and driving style. I have added the truggy steering blocks in hopes of just a little more steering.

Here is a little review on the clutch system.

1st attemtp: Buy the electric part and add nitro shoes and springs

I purchased just the bell since I have a bunch of shoes, springs, pins, bearings and clutch bells hanging around. It went together just fine. The only issue I noticed was that the pins stick out of the back of the flywheel a little. This is just enough to mess up the spacing. Ground them down a little, and it worked.
Assembled the clutch as I would a normal nitro clutch (Set up on left in first pic). This worked, but I had no brakes as Losi Claimed.

2nd Attempt: Just by the whole thing!

Purchased the entire set up with everything included. As expected, the pins were shorter. However, the clutch springs were longer. I tried to assemble it like a nitro clutch again, but the shoes wouldn't fit with the longer springs. In order to make them fit, the springs need to go inside the hole on the flywheel (there are four holes on the flywheel for this purpose). The finished product is the clutch on the right in the first picture. The shoes are then spring loaded against the clutch bell when assembled. The second picture shows the springs going into the hole on the flywheel. This set-up allows for braking without using mechanical brakes because the shoes are always pressed against the clutch bell. Yes, the clutch bell will get hot. DO NOT USE A PLASTIC SPUR GEAR WITH THE CLUTCH SET UP. You will strip your spur gear.

The last picture below shows how it all fits in there.

It runs really smooth with the clutch set up. Acceleration is very linear and controllable. I have yet to use it for a long period of time.

Also, I was not able to use the 13t clutch bell because the bell would hit the differential case when I tried to mesh it. 14t and higher bell's will work.

Thanks for reading. Let me know if you have questions.

I just have a question? How does this help? I am just trying to think of the benefit of having a clutch over a diff. I do not mean any disrespect. just would to understand and also what is the pros and cons of making the change.

Thanks

You don't have a "clutch over a diff" - you have a clutch and a diff.

The idea is to smooth out the instant torque of the big brushless motor.

Couldn't you just use some curve in the radio to smooth it out? Seems more consistent to me....

I have a question, hopefully you guys can answer. I've tried to search, bit on a mobile browser, I get less than ideal results....

What is the difference in weight between std kit diffs, and the HD diffs, if any? I'm going to be putting my sled on a diet soon, trying to figure out different weights of things.

While we're talking weights... How about difference in carbon vs aluminum shock towers?

Negligible if you run the DE inserts in the HD diff.

I figured so. Are the HD diffs worth it? I've been running xray, we didn't have an option.

I think mechanical changes feel different and sometimes better than radio curves and esc adjustments. Clutches, slippers, belts vs shafts, types of motors and rotors, gear ratios, gearing vs. motor turns/kv ratings. Nitro engines have lots of variation in power bands too.

im looking at some of these option parts....

are there any cons/drawbacks to the aluminum cv driveshaft axles??

...... what about that front overdrive gear??

i have my one 3.0 i use for bashing.....but lately we've been having a get together on saturday nights in a parking lot and its went from racing around cones to drag racing......and being i have a new kit in a box laying around, i figure i'll build a car for the drag strip. .....with all the pimpings.

are the aluminum driveshafts axles as durable as stock??

Basically im not a speed run/drag race person so i need help with the set up......Any suggestions for oil in the diffs???

Last week i threw in the 21t pinion on the castle 2650.....with a thunder power 2700mah 6s with the foam tires.....all i can say is.......fuggedaboudit.

The whole parking lot was like "holy sh*t".....

I just need an optimal set up for when i build this.....
if the aluminum axles are lighter n will excelerate quicker, thats great....but will they handle the power/torque??
.....n im thinking the overdrive gear might be beneficial off the line.
....thats why im asking about those parts in particular and if theyre any cons.......
......and the weight oil for the diffs...

I don't know about the aluminium shafts. but when I went to dogbones 8/V2.0 Nitro & Gas(steel) all four wheels on my 8e 2.0, vs the stock cvd's, I could tell it have more snap off the line, on pavement. The only thing I can figure is the dogbones don't twist or wind up like the cvd's. Their thicker diameter, than the cvd's. To me, that equated to more instant throttle response.

On a side note, I run SP Racing tires and wheels sometimes on the street, their shorter so a regear is necessary. My grandson was here the other day and said "will it make smoke the wheels?". I put my foot in front of it and gave it full throttle, on pavement, and it smoked all four tires down almost instantly lol. He was in awe lol.

anybody know if mayfield was using a new car this past weekend?

Hi there,

I just finished my first season of rc car racing and each time I am learning a new thing about how to set up a car, new questions come to my mind. Iīve got the TLR 8ight e 3.0 kit. My home track here in Germany is a astroturf track and most of the tracks I had been racing on so far were astro turf tracks as well. Hardly anybody is racing a tlr car here and can help me out with set up tips. I love the car, I never broke anything through out the entire season, but to be honest: thatīs about the only thing I love about it.

When I got the car, the rod ends (front and back) were hardly moving at all. Until I figured out that this was the main problem of my kit and how to solve it, I had changed everything about the stock setup that can be changed, because it seemed like the shocks were hardly moving at all. I even drilled wider holes in the machined pistons to make the shocks work at least a little.
Maybe I just got a bad kit (the front hinge pin would not fit the chassi until I cut away parts of the chassis).

The car acts totally unpretictable in about any turn. It even seems to change completly from one day to another, although I havenīt changed anything. I canīt even tell if I have too much oversteering or understeering in certain corners, because both seems to be the fact.

I am not using a sensored engine, so maybe this might be a main problem as well.

At this point, I am willing to sell the kit. Somebody who likes bashing might be totally fine and happy with it. I am not even sure if it is worth it to invest the money to buy new machined pistons, shock- and diff oils to restore the standard set up. To change the front and back diff oil is no fun thing either, since itīs complicated to take the diffs out of the kit.

I am not a bad driver. I have build a few kits when I was young and drove many rtr eight scale kits in the past three years before I went on a race track.

So whatīs the problem? I am not having too much time for testing and practice (every other weekend), did I just get a bad kit and messed up too much with the set up...

I know there was some tight fitting rod ends on some of the kits and it was best to assemble the balls into the ends and then squeeze around the outside in a couple directions with a pair of pliers to loosen them up. The front and rear hinge pins also fit tight into the arms and require some attention to get working free. We also found the sway bar links to be a little tight again do as I instructed with the rod ends to free them up also. Once everything is free assemble one part at a time insuring fee movement of each assembly. With everything installed before mounting the shock assemblies on the car check to make sure that the arms will fall freely downward after being lifted upwards. These steps will dramatically improve the handling of the car. I have always found to get to the front and rear diffs it is best just to remove the front and rear clips as assemblies and then remove the diffs, it is pretty quick with a screw gun and a couple times of practice. Remember on a high bite track such as you run on you most likely will need to run the heavier sway bars to keep the car from unloading all at once during the turns. Make the car feel as numb as possible and work your was back to a more aggressive feel little by little. I hope this helps. The car is a really good race car, it just takes getting to know it and learning what it likes.

thank you very much for your answer dynamiteracer. I used a pair of pliers and did exactly as you told me. I saw Adam Drake do it on youtube. I did that at the beginning of the season about 10 times, after each practice. As soon as I returned on the track, they were completely tight again (couldnīt even move them by hand). I ended up cutting dents in them with the sharp middle part of the pliers. That finally helped. For the front hinge pins I had to remove a big chunk of the chassis.

Iīll will remove front and rear clip completely when I want to change the diff oil next time.

What would you suggest for set up to make the car feel as numb as possible on astro turf besides heavy sway bars?
I initially wanted to just go back to the out of the box settings since the rod ends are finally moving freely now. But Iīd rather have a good starting set up for astro turf. That would mean, that I have to get new machined pistons, but which ones should I get and what shock fluid? What diff oils?

So far I am running 3000, 7000, 2000, which might be ridiculous, but at least it seems to take the turns a little better. I found out that toe in or toe out makes a huge difference as well.

Another thing I donīt get and other drivers have noticed on my kit as well: The further I push the car down to the ground in the front, the harder it gets to do so. On the rear I donīt have the same problem. I already made the holes wider in the front suspension arms and clean them regularly. Doesnīt help much.

I wished I could start over with a brand new kit, but I lost trust it would be any better. Did they fix these problems and upgraded the kit? In Germany we say, if a product is usually good, but the specific one you got doesnīt do what itīs supposed to do, it was produced on a Monday ; ) That might be the case as well.