1LikesTLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
10-07-2014, 07:20 AM
#2551
Im not sponsored by tlr. I didnt change any other aspect of my setup besides the tray and hated it. I switched mine back after two packs. Just wasnt stable obviously changing the whole setup might help. It seemed the reverse tray is favored by those who are use to the nitro car. So adam drake and maifield. I currently run the normal tray layout with a 430 gram battery and like that best.
10-07-2014, 07:53 AM
#2552
I just picked up a used 3.0e.....it has a 43t plastic center diff gear...and a HUGE pinion...and a 2650kv motor...looks like someone just bashed it around and set it up to run 100mph...
For the metal 45T spur....is it Losi part number 3552....(mod 1?)
http://www.amain.com/Losi-Mod-1-Cent...ar-45T/p134098
I also plan on picking up some pinions to figure out the gearing....14t,15t and 16t pinions...it's got a 17 on it now..... wow...
******>>>> I was planning to run 4s....but is a 2650kv a 3s motor?
Here's a video of our new track layout...anybody want to suggest a pinion/spur/cell-count for that 2650 tekin T8 that's in it.....
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=764059023650461
Also...one more question...the internal BEC in this Tekin does not like the Spektrum S8000 servo with my Futaba R603FS receiver....like it has a brownout if I move the steering fast....but with an external BEC it works great...Do you guys run external BEC's or Capacitors when you see this happen? Or should my RX8G2 esc's BEC be enough? I was planning on putting in a Castle BEC and pulling the red wire from the esc plug unless you have a better solution....I have the castle BEC already from planes...
I'm glad to be back in 1/8....it's been 5 or 6 years since I ran it...with the first 8ight nitro when it first came out and for about a year after...
For the metal 45T spur....is it Losi part number 3552....(mod 1?)
http://www.amain.com/Losi-Mod-1-Cent...ar-45T/p134098
I also plan on picking up some pinions to figure out the gearing....14t,15t and 16t pinions...it's got a 17 on it now..... wow...
******>>>> I was planning to run 4s....but is a 2650kv a 3s motor?
Here's a video of our new track layout...anybody want to suggest a pinion/spur/cell-count for that 2650 tekin T8 that's in it.....
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=764059023650461
Also...one more question...the internal BEC in this Tekin does not like the Spektrum S8000 servo with my Futaba R603FS receiver....like it has a brownout if I move the steering fast....but with an external BEC it works great...Do you guys run external BEC's or Capacitors when you see this happen? Or should my RX8G2 esc's BEC be enough? I was planning on putting in a Castle BEC and pulling the red wire from the esc plug unless you have a better solution....I have the castle BEC already from planes...
I'm glad to be back in 1/8....it's been 5 or 6 years since I ran it...with the first 8ight nitro when it first came out and for about a year after...
RX8 Gen2 has a great BEC in it so this should not be a problem but I would not think with that setup but if you are getting brownouts an external BEC or a cap should help. The Gen 2 ESC has a pretty robust BEC though as that was one of the improvements due to the power hungry servo's these days so I am a little suprised to hear that. I would ask this question over on the RX8 thread and see if Randy knows of any issues with that radio setup.
One more question....
years back when I raced 1/8 we measured droop by the "up-travel" or difference in ride height from settled to "wheels-just-touching"....as the difference in mm between these two ride heights....
On the setup sheets I see TLR drivers measuring something different....(over 100mm)...I presume this is shock length at full extension. Is this center-to-center of the mounting bolts or overall length? This is how I measure it on 1/10 vehicles without droop screws...never done this before on 1/8...
Can anyone post a simple explanation of how the setup sheets are measuring this droop number?
years back when I raced 1/8 we measured droop by the "up-travel" or difference in ride height from settled to "wheels-just-touching"....as the difference in mm between these two ride heights....
On the setup sheets I see TLR drivers measuring something different....(over 100mm)...I presume this is shock length at full extension. Is this center-to-center of the mounting bolts or overall length? This is how I measure it on 1/10 vehicles without droop screws...never done this before on 1/8...
Can anyone post a simple explanation of how the setup sheets are measuring this droop number?
I run dual shorties in my 8ight-E so batteries are only 412g or so.
10-07-2014, 02:51 PM
#2553
Perfect answers. Thank you.
10-08-2014, 07:57 AM
#2555
10-08-2014, 11:01 AM
#2557
How long have you been running this battery? The lite weight is definitely catching my attention. I've been looking at the smc batteries (came highly recommended) but they seem so heavy compared to the Eco. Guess I can try one since it's so cheap and compare to the smc I'm planning on buying. Do you run any other packs or do you have to add weight anywhere on kit to have a balance?
10-08-2014, 11:56 AM
#2558
How long have you been running this battery? The lite weight is definitely catching my attention. I've been looking at the smc batteries (came highly recommended) but they seem so heavy compared to the Eco. Guess I can try one since it's so cheap and compare to the smc I'm planning on buying. Do you run any other packs or do you have to add weight anywhere on kit to have a balance?
10-08-2014, 01:57 PM
#2559
SMC also has a 4600 4s pack that is the same size as 2 shorties (says uses the same cells also) then you could move it F&R to change weight bias.
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=202
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=202
10-09-2014, 05:29 AM
#2560
Ive been running the packs about 8 months. I just have the 40g brass weight that goes right behind the front diff case under the front cvd. I do not have any other packs. I was running a dual 2s 5600 which was 640g. I run a normal tekin 1900 and rx8 gen 2. The lightness of the battery made the car real nimble, responsive, and it seems alot quicker accelerating. I eventually want to try the t8i and a 3500 4s pack that smc makes to try an actual light setup. Taking weight off with just battery has made a huge difference.
10-09-2014, 05:32 AM
#2561
SMC also has a 4600 4s pack that is the same size as 2 shorties (says uses the same cells also) then you could move it F&R to change weight bias.
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=202
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=202
10-09-2014, 07:19 AM
#2563
Thanks for that. I'm actually going to try this battery out as well. Seems weight distribution is very important and that smc pack is ideal. The reviews said 10min mains with no issues. If this is the case at 4600 mah why do others go with the bigger 6500+ batteries that weigh more just to get the same 10mins.?What battery set up do you use?
10-09-2014, 07:54 AM
#2564
I run a SMC 3500 & Tekin T8i 1950k, but in a MIP Pro8 which is a SCTE 2.0 converted to a 1:8 buggy. The layout is identical to the 8E 3.0 so I use some similar setups, & that's why I follow this thread. But I am also really wanting to get a 8E 3.0 to see how it compares with the superlight buggy.
10-09-2014, 10:27 AM
#2565
Will try the battery with the brass weight set up. As someone new to buggy would you suggest a heavier set up first? Haven't driven it yet as I'm still building. My experience are with truggys which are easier to drive. I was told buggy is less forgiving. So wondering if a heavier buggy would cater to the style of driving I'm use to till I get accustomed.