dtr

Thanks for the quick reply Casper!
The servo is ko rsx response hc, I can fit two holes that are on the same side (I chose the two near the servo horn to resist the torque better). The holes on the other side are about 2mm too far out; I can make a picture tomorrow. I was pretty surprised as I thought the same, standard size servos have the holes at the same spot.

Happy to hear that the other two issues are just cosmetic differences!

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Yeah I would not be happy with two screws on the same side. Must be the closed ends those servo's have?

The overall specs are not too far off other then those appear to be tall (at least the way we install it in the SCTE).

They are on the long side of "std" but it should fit. You can't get the 4 screws started and then tighten them down?

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

I have ask. No one seems to know. Lots of adjustments in the TLR suspension holders by changing inserts so I don't know how these will differ much. Good to have options, but they are pricy. They do look cool. Be good to test them back to back with stock parts and or a combination of these with the TLR suspension holder insert changes to understand how they help and why. With a few days of time at the track and good notes this could be explained and proven out. I might give it shot over the summer if time allows.

ZeroDown7169

iTrader: (72)

Hey guy,
I'm having problems with my shocks on this kit. I fill them up and let them sit for a while to get all the air out of them, but when I put the caps on and pull the bleeder screw out and push the excess oil out, and screw it back in the shock will have reverse rebound, the shock shaft sucks into the shock. I've watched a bunch of videos on YouTube and I'm doing it the same way that they are but no matter how many times I try it has the same result. Any ideas on what's going on?
Thanks

Errokk

iTrader: (13)

I prefer to compress mine completely then bring the shock to mid stroke before I tighten the bleeder screw. I like the way they feel when I set them this way.

Espeefan

iTrader: (3)

My steering servo was a tight fit as well. I went with a Futaba 9156, which is also a standard sized servo. I didn't think I was going to be able to fit all 4 screws either, but I eventually got them in.

What I would suggest is that you tap all the servo mount holes first, with the screws provided, or with a 4-40 tap. Do this without your servo in the mount at all. After you've pre-tapped the holes, it becomes a little easier to get the screws in, once the servo is positioned.

Start the screws at one end of the servo. Front or rear - it doesn't really matter. Get a few turns on the screws so they are halfway engaged or more, but not so far tight that the heads are pinching down on the servo ears. Then gently push your servo as far as you can to gain access to the holes for the screws at the opposite end of the mount. The plastic mount will flex just a little. Start those screws, and then snug them all up evenly, till they are tight.

As for the color differences in the aluminum shock bodies, and the turnbuckle, I would not be concerned at all. The color difference is probably due to a batch of parts that weren't in the anodizing tank as long as some others, or in the plating tank.

SoCalMX

iTrader: (5)

Mine should be here today, so it will take a few days before I find out if it was money well spent?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

This is normal. Once you stroke the shocks a few times they should suck in a little air and balance themselves. This extra air is required for an emulsion style shock. Until is sucks a little air it will have "reverse rebound" there will be a vacuum in the shock until it balances.

dtr

Height is allright, it fits with more than enough space to the chassis, but now I have compared it to the old airtronics it had replaced in the 1.0 and it is longer by almost 2mm, as you can see in the pic, it is off by about that amount, half the diameter of the hole.

I am afraid if I oval out all the holes the remaining material in the mount will become too thin.

Sadly a little flex will not be enough.

Thanks for confirmation!

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Don't run the grommets. That should help! Those are needed more for nitro cars but most of those guys don't run them there either!

dtr

Thanks Casper, I'll see how it fits without them.

Hadz

Hi all need some help, I am having a problem with my car for the last two races is starting to cut out around the 5 minute mark in a 7min race. I still have steering but no throttle. After about 10 sec I have throttle back but it keeps cutting out on any heavy throttle. Temps are - Motor-117, ESC-123, so not a thermal problem (I think). I am assuming it is the battery, hitting the battery cutoff, but this is only a recent occurrence. I have already reduced gearing from a 14 to 13 with no effect. Running a large outdoor 1/8 track.
RX8Gen2, 4600Pro4, 13-40, 6000mAh 65-130C Nano-Tech.
ESC Settings - 2S, LM 80, TP3 - would reducing the current limit help?
Cheers

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

Reduce or turn off current limit cutoff or get a larger battery like a smc 7200 or spc 8200.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

First try a different battery. If it still does it then check for loose/cold solder joints. You can lower the current limit but it will be a bandaid for a marginal battery. Also check your fan. I had the same problem and tracked it down to a shorted fan. About 4 minutes into the run the esc would try and turn on the fan and because it was shorted it would shut down throttle for about 5 seconds. But it really sounds to me like you have a battery issue and voltage is dropping to lvc under load.

dtr

Thanks, that was it! Perfect fit without them. Now I just need to replace those screws with cap heads like on the 8ight.