TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
#5566
Tech Apprentice
I use the following kit to rebuild my diffs and it comes with very small shims (washers) that I don't have in my original build. Should I be putting the in somewhere or leave them out because they are used in a different model?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hardware-Ten-T
Also, I have a lot of problems with the center differential with the gear mesh when I tighten the screws all the way. If I leave them loose to the point it leaks, then the gears are nice and smooth. This last time I built it, I put two of the gaskets on to space it out and it works nicely. This has been a problem since it was new. It's not because it's worn.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hardware-Ten-T
Also, I have a lot of problems with the center differential with the gear mesh when I tighten the screws all the way. If I leave them loose to the point it leaks, then the gears are nice and smooth. This last time I built it, I put two of the gaskets on to space it out and it works nicely. This has been a problem since it was new. It's not because it's worn.
#5567
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
I use the following kit to rebuild my diffs and it comes with very small shims (washers) that I don't have in my original build. Should I be putting the in somewhere or leave them out because they are used in a different model?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hardware-Ten-T
Also, I have a lot of problems with the center differential with the gear mesh when I tighten the screws all the way. If I leave them loose to the point it leaks, then the gears are nice and smooth. This last time I built it, I put two of the gaskets on to space it out and it works nicely. This has been a problem since it was new. It's not because it's worn.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hardware-Ten-T
Also, I have a lot of problems with the center differential with the gear mesh when I tighten the screws all the way. If I leave them loose to the point it leaks, then the gears are nice and smooth. This last time I built it, I put two of the gaskets on to space it out and it works nicely. This has been a problem since it was new. It's not because it's worn.
#5568
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Believe it or not, most of the fast central Ohio guys have gone to a 2-pole setup, including the local pro, who whipps up on everyone. The 4300 HD seemed to have far too much power.
Since going to the Orion R10 Pro / Thunder Power Z3R-550 (4.5T) setup (the same setup many of the really fast guys use), I have DEcreased my lap times considerably, as it lays the power down in a more smooth fashion.
Since going to the Orion R10 Pro / Thunder Power Z3R-550 (4.5T) setup (the same setup many of the really fast guys use), I have DEcreased my lap times considerably, as it lays the power down in a more smooth fashion.
:t ire::
Last edited by BmainStar; 11-05-2013 at 01:14 PM. Reason: e
#5569
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
I use the following kit to rebuild my diffs and it comes with very small shims (washers) that I don't have in my original build. Should I be putting the in somewhere or leave them out because they are used in a different model?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hardware-Ten-T
Also, I have a lot of problems with the center differential with the gear mesh when I tighten the screws all the way. If I leave them loose to the point it leaks, then the gears are nice and smooth. This last time I built it, I put two of the gaskets on to space it out and it works nicely. This has been a problem since it was new. It's not because it's worn.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hardware-Ten-T
Also, I have a lot of problems with the center differential with the gear mesh when I tighten the screws all the way. If I leave them loose to the point it leaks, then the gears are nice and smooth. This last time I built it, I put two of the gaskets on to space it out and it works nicely. This has been a problem since it was new. It's not because it's worn.
#5570
Tech Apprentice
Has anyone installed the rx-box (TLR241004) from the 3.0E in this truck?
Just curious to know if the box takes out the right nerf-bar. Would be nice to have a rx-box for those wet race days...
Thanks.
Just curious to know if the box takes out the right nerf-bar. Would be nice to have a rx-box for those wet race days...
Thanks.
#5571
What would be the correct part number for the 2.0 rebuild kits? I've just been buying new diff cups when they start to leak. It's only a few extra bucks for the whole thing but just seals is probably all that's needed.
#5572
Tech Adept
Diff gears are same part number as what you bought. There was a running change but the part number stayed the same.
#5573
Buddy and me did it, If your willing to Loose the whole Side guard when running the box then you'll be fine, If you want to keep the Side guard you have to do some rather intensive dremeling. It can be done and still look pretty, Just takes some time and effort to do so.
Shoegoo on the seams to prevent Dirt from falling/Jamming under the tray.
#5575
Cool new truck. I still like my 2.0. It smokes almost everything at my local track.
#5576
Tech Apprentice
Buddy and me did it, If your willing to Loose the whole Side guard when running the box then you'll be fine, If you want to keep the Side guard you have to do some rather intensive dremeling. It can be done and still look pretty, Just takes some time and effort to do so.
Shoegoo on the seams to prevent Dirt from falling/Jamming under the tray.
Shoegoo on the seams to prevent Dirt from falling/Jamming under the tray.
#5577
Just finished tuning the truck up for racing tomorrow night. Fitted the new jconcepts hi flo and had to trim 3/8" out of the front fenders to get the suspension free movement. It's a nice heavy body but just doesn't fit right. I believe I will be sticking to the factory Losi body from here on out. It may be somewhat thin but mine has lasted better than I expected and fits without question.
#5578
Also wondering if anybody else has had trouble with the rear camber. I'm running the rear camber links as short as I can get them (inside hole on the hub and lower outside hole on tower) and I can only get about a half a degree of negative camber before the turnbuckle bottoms out in the rod end and binds up. Am I doing something wrong or was the truck not designed to run this kind of a setup on it? Maybe I should move in a hole on the tower and leave it in the inner hole on the hub since that move is not as drastic as moving to the outer hole in the hub
#5579
Tech Adept
Also wondering if anybody else has had trouble with the rear camber. I'm running the rear camber links as short as I can get them (inside hole on the hub and lower outside hole on tower) and I can only get about a half a degree of negative camber before the turnbuckle bottoms out in the rod end and binds up. Am I doing something wrong or was the truck not designed to run this kind of a setup on it? Maybe I should move in a hole on the tower and leave it in the inner hole on the hub since that move is not as drastic as moving to the outer hole in the hub
#5580
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
Also wondering if anybody else has had trouble with the rear camber. I'm running the rear camber links as short as I can get them (inside hole on the hub and lower outside hole on tower) and I can only get about a half a degree of negative camber before the turnbuckle bottoms out in the rod end and binds up. Am I doing something wrong or was the truck not designed to run this kind of a setup on it? Maybe I should move in a hole on the tower and leave it in the inner hole on the hub since that move is not as drastic as moving to the outer hole in the hub