10LikesTLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
09-06-2013, 10:26 AM
#5177
The plastic "pucks" around the drive pin fits snug inside the outdrives - so you don't have any slack movement between the outdrives and the drive pin. That means the outdrives isn't constantly slamming the pin and causing wear.
$4-$5 for replacement pucks according to MIP site.
$4-$5 for replacement pucks according to MIP site.
09-06-2013, 12:49 PM
#5179
Got it. I think I'm set up like that currently, but will check tonight.
My biggest issue with the steering on the 2.0 is the ackerman screws keep backing out of the bellcrank. I've had 2 DNF's in the past month as a result. I just picked up the ST aluminum version and will use some blue locktite on these. Hopefully it helps. In either event, I've broken 3-4 things on this truck already and I've only been racing it for 2 months.
Anyone else finding certain parts (outside of the ackerman issue mentioned) of this truck to be fragile? Specially the CV coupler set up for the driveshafts (I wore 2 of those out and they snapped) and the Rear Bumper (broke 2 of those already as well). I run on a big track with some large jumps, but nothing this truck wasn't designed to handle.
My biggest issue with the steering on the 2.0 is the ackerman screws keep backing out of the bellcrank. I've had 2 DNF's in the past month as a result. I just picked up the ST aluminum version and will use some blue locktite on these. Hopefully it helps. In either event, I've broken 3-4 things on this truck already and I've only been racing it for 2 months.
Anyone else finding certain parts (outside of the ackerman issue mentioned) of this truck to be fragile? Specially the CV coupler set up for the driveshafts (I wore 2 of those out and they snapped) and the Rear Bumper (broke 2 of those already as well). I run on a big track with some large jumps, but nothing this truck wasn't designed to handle.
Rear bumpers have been beefed up a ton but repeated dropping from 4 feet on the rear bumper will break them over time.
Steering ackerman. Replace your belcranks with plastic ones. If you get them in right the first time and do not stress/strip the holes they hold pretty well but you should check them everyonce in a while to make sure they are tight.
09-07-2013, 06:54 AM
#5180
Casper - Ryan (or anyone) - just put the full latest Casper/Ryan setup on my 2.0. Small motor - battery middle. - I like 80% of how the new setup works - jumps lands and in general feels really good. This was 1 race night on big open loose 1/8 track with some tight 180 S sections.
- oversteer at corner exit on the high speed corners
- understeer at corner entry at the low speed 180 S sections
For the understeer areas, I had to muscle the truck around the corners with the trottle - which brought me back to driving the 1.0 where I had to constantly turn with the throttle. All my previous setups did not push like this.
My first thoughts are to either dial in some toe out - right now it's at 1 degree in - or drop the center diff down to 5K.
Anyone else experience the same?
- oversteer at corner exit on the high speed corners
- understeer at corner entry at the low speed 180 S sections
For the understeer areas, I had to muscle the truck around the corners with the trottle - which brought me back to driving the 1.0 where I had to constantly turn with the throttle. All my previous setups did not push like this.
My first thoughts are to either dial in some toe out - right now it's at 1 degree in - or drop the center diff down to 5K.
Anyone else experience the same?
09-07-2013, 07:10 AM
#5181
- oversteer at corner exit on the high speed corners
- understeer at corner entry at the low speed 180 S sections
Ran mine last night, same issue
- understeer at corner entry at the low speed 180 S sections
Ran mine last night, same issue
09-07-2013, 09:49 AM
#5182
Tech Apprentice
Casper - Ryan (or anyone) - just put the full latest Casper/Ryan setup on my 2.0. Small motor - battery middle. - I like 80% of how the new setup works - jumps lands and in general feels really good. This was 1 race night on big open loose 1/8 track with some tight 180 S sections.
- oversteer at corner exit on the high speed corners
- understeer at corner entry at the low speed 180 S sections
For the understeer areas, I had to muscle the truck around the corners with the trottle - which brought me back to driving the 1.0 where I had to constantly turn with the throttle. All my previous setups did not push like this.
My first thoughts are to either dial in some toe out - right now it's at 1 degree in - or drop the center diff down to 5K.
Anyone else experience the same?
- oversteer at corner exit on the high speed corners
- understeer at corner entry at the low speed 180 S sections
For the understeer areas, I had to muscle the truck around the corners with the trottle - which brought me back to driving the 1.0 where I had to constantly turn with the throttle. All my previous setups did not push like this.
My first thoughts are to either dial in some toe out - right now it's at 1 degree in - or drop the center diff down to 5K.
Anyone else experience the same?
I'm not positive, but I'm pretty sure that the setup your using is for high traction indoor clay where you can start to apply power MUCH earlier in the turn and you will have the required traction to increase on power steering.
I run on the same loose, outdoor conditions you are talking about and I run a about 1.5-2 degrees toe OUT. I also do not apply much throttle until late in the corner exit and I apply it gently as the dusty conditions will make the rear end nervous.
09-07-2013, 10:07 AM
#5183
Yeah, that's why it was my first thought. My last setup ran 2 degrees toe out and the new setup is 1 degree in. I wanted to try to get used to the setup before making changes but that was my first thought.
09-07-2013, 11:00 AM
#5184
Casper - Ryan (or anyone) - just put the full latest Casper/Ryan setup on my 2.0. Small motor - battery middle. - I like 80% of how the new setup works - jumps lands and in general feels really good. This was 1 race night on big open loose 1/8 track with some tight 180 S sections.
- oversteer at corner exit on the high speed corners
- understeer at corner entry at the low speed 180 S sections
For the understeer areas, I had to muscle the truck around the corners with the trottle - which brought me back to driving the 1.0 where I had to constantly turn with the throttle. All my previous setups did not push like this.
My first thoughts are to either dial in some toe out - right now it's at 1 degree in - or drop the center diff down to 5K.
Anyone else experience the same?
- oversteer at corner exit on the high speed corners
- understeer at corner entry at the low speed 180 S sections
For the understeer areas, I had to muscle the truck around the corners with the trottle - which brought me back to driving the 1.0 where I had to constantly turn with the throttle. All my previous setups did not push like this.
My first thoughts are to either dial in some toe out - right now it's at 1 degree in - or drop the center diff down to 5K.
Anyone else experience the same?
09-07-2013, 11:04 AM
#5185
Yeah we change the toe drastically when we went change the bump steer but outdoor loser conditions may require a little toe out. Yes most of the Racing Ryan and I have done lately have been med to high bite indoor clay or high bite outdoor (blue groove type conditions).
09-07-2013, 11:22 AM
#5186
Thanks Casper / all - ill drop down to 5k and play with the toe
09-07-2013, 12:30 PM
#5187
..Turk, I run a very similar out door track , and really like 5-5-5.I run a set up that's close to the new one just heavier shock fluids because of temps here now and run only 1mm shim at bump steer with zero to 1 deg of toe out and have really liked the performance.
09-07-2013, 05:04 PM
#5188
Cool thanks for the input! Yah I liked 5-5-5 a lot with the last setup. I'll try toe first see how that feels and then center diff as well
My Pro 4 win with Casper/Dunford setup slightly modded
09-09-2013, 04:52 AM
#5190
Tech Apprentice