TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

yes, the front and rear clips are the same as previously stated and the entire driveline is the same with the rear and front driveshafts being swapped do to the new location of the center diff(back farther on chassis on the 2.0)

mavdriver

iTrader: (9)

Just ran my 2.0 last week at the new glen helen RC track decided to run on the 1/5 scale track i like it much better big jump , long straight away and some curves , is a loose track though unless is wet , this truck did not dissapoint , it handles well and flies great of the big jump , im running Castle 2700kv with mamba pro esc on 3s , it hauls the mail is awesome , will be running on a indoor track today so im going to switch to Novak 550 4.5 ballastic motor on 2 s see how it does , also i busted one of my front A arm on the big jump , at Glen Helen track , was my fault over shot the ramp by 10 feet , so i installed new RPM losi ten scte front arms they are quite beefy , should hold up to my driving LOL

XRated SCT

What's a good hex tool set for cheap that'll put together the 2.0 w/ no problems

RossNZ

Thanks, this is the kind of info I'm looking for, I'm going to mod my 1.0 and try it, I can always change it back if I don't like it.
My truck has all the Tekno shafts in it and the losi tune kit, better chassis etc, trick shock pistons etc, so I see no advantage to buying a new truck when other than shock towers I can mod.

Will post pics when done unless you guys would rather I go to the 1.0 thread?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I would spend the little extra money for the MIP 1/16th at a minimum but going for the entire MIP/thorp wrench set is a great investment for wrenching on your cars for many years.

XRated SCT

alright thanks

jmc5313

I just busted the hell outta the rear bumper and it also busted the end on the torque rod.. my fault...new triple...not enough gear...is there an aluminum end available for the torque rod?

XRated SCT

Same exact thing happened to me

Casper

iTrader: (34)

No. It is critical that you thread the set screw all the way into the plastic end before you thread it into the alum rod. This helps strengthen the plastic part as it fills in the hole in the plastic rod end.

jmc5313

Is that the sacrificial piece? What I mean is does that protect the chassis from getting bent?

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

No the chassis won't bend it will flex. Too much. Just make sure the screw is bottomed out in the plastic when u put it together like above post said. You shouldn't have any problems after unless u hit something really hard.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I would not say that. They will break on occasion but not something I understand is chronic. Again making sure you thread all the way into the plastic helps them last longer.

seabass17

iTrader: (40)

Had the chance to race mine for the first time last night, I love this new kit! It jumps with a much more confident attitude and feels very well balanced. It's so good it brought a good friend of mine back from a really bad episode with a Tekno good job losi.

potatobed409

iTrader: (1)

I finished my kit and the only problem I had was on the assembly of one rear camber link. It felt very loose when screwing the turn buckle together. Sure enough, first flip and the tie rod came loose from the ball end. Now it just slides in and out. Has this happen to anyone else? What would be the best replacement? Lunsford? RPM ball ends?

XRated SCT

What's the part number for the plastic end on the torque rod?