BashemSmashem

iTrader: (42)

And your motor wires are not plugged in all the way ....... Looks nice though .....

agarabaghi

iTrader: (25)

Nah with the nuts the right way it won't secure my battery properly.... I put a small dap of lock tite to keep it secure

CanadianNascar

iTrader: (1)

Is anyone else using loctite on the battery hold downs ?

goehm

iTrader: (45)

Believe the prongs are longer than the female end of the bullet plug. Not an ideal situation, but nothing a little heat shrink can't fix.

goehm

iTrader: (45)

There's a solution out for the diff screws, it's the HPI screws. I've built three cases, two of them were very hard to get the screws in - and oddly enough the one I built last night they went in great. In either case, it wasn't such a chore to get the job done.

It's not a perfect process, but just be aware that every kit is not perfect.

The reality is that you need a little mechanical skill to be successful and consistent in this hobby. Are you really having that much of a problem with building the diffs? Or just venting?

By the way - a bolt has a nut on one end. A screw doesn't. The diff has no bolts.
http://engineerexplains.com/answr/Screw-vs-Bolt1.html

arrtay

Well I got mine all built up between the last two nights. I had zero problems with the diff. screws. If no one said there was any issues with theres; I woulden't even mention that I had none! Just put a dab of the tan grease on each screw tip, and they just went right on in! LOL! The shock bottoms were a tad tight like expected. I just sprayed the threads with some (dry silicone lube.) Kinda uneventful; no big deal, no leakers, good to go! The only issue I DO HAVE is the front diff. case is rubbing in the one spot like so many others on here have mentioned! I did make sure the bearings were inserted fully!! I am undecided if I wanna pull it all apart and find out where it's hitting on the "so called high spot"; or just run the fuger!!!! and let it clear itself!....It's just the principal. Pisses me off!!!

agarabaghi

iTrader: (25)

I like this guy. Any yup that is exactly it. But it works and no issues

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

Take the diff out and set the outdrive in something and spin it and see if oyu have your screws tight to where the ring gear might not be down on the diff case or do as some and grind out the diff housing if its rubbing on that

til they touch

arrtay

O'yeah, and this is not my 1st, 2nd, or even 20th RC rodeo!! If it floats,flies,or drives RC been there...done that!! Haha!

ussprinceton

the stock wires soldered on the HobbyWing SCT Pro esc that came with it are 8" long. Are those long enough to reach across the 3656SD 4000kv motor, all mounted where they are supposed to be on the chassis?

Maglin

Yes and no. It's just long enough to use them but I would like them about .5" longer to have a little slack. Also a 200mm sensor wire isn't long enough. You will need at a minimum a 230mm sensor wire for the HW SCT PRO and 540 combo.

Feint Motion

iTrader: (24)

I'd just solder some high quality wires on the SCT pro, I've have a few wires start to break, but again, I ran my truck on a 1/8th scale outdoor track.

ussprinceton

is this sensor cable on eBay any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speedzone-27...item43b9f8145d

ussprinceton

are these wires on eBay considered high quality? http://www.ebay.com/itm/171012392966...84.m1438.l2649

Feint Motion

iTrader: (24)

Not sure,Those should be good, since it flex wires. I use Deans Wet noodle
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...FY5_Qgodfi8AlQ
Novak wire super Flex wire is also good.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...et-Black-Red-6