Derry

iTrader: (27)

yup... holes in tire when using traction compound=bad idea. your foams will break down in half the time. I used to always vent the tire when using CC foam along with most everyone else but always had the dead foam issue after 2 or 3 race days. After I stopped venting the tire I quickly figured out traction compounds effects on the CC foam. It seems to be much more severe on SC tires then buggy tires. I usually run on a indoor clay track so I dont have to really wash my tires, just a little more compound brushed on with a tooth brush and I'm good to go. On an outdoor track where I would actually have to use a wash bucket to clean the tires I would vent the tires and of course not use compound.

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

I dont remember who posted this issue besides myself but i think i figured out my problem with the diff...im a dumbass and didnt realize the gear actually SNAPS ON to the pin thats slid through the outdrive inside the diff so i will be tearing the front end down and this is pry my reason for feeling the gear mesh when turning the outdrives

Heads up to anyone else that didnt realize this....

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

I have not noticed any detrimental effects with Green Dot, Blue Dot, Sticky Kicks Red or Buggy Grip (Kinwald) and Proline, AKA red and Panther yellow and orange foams. Many many race sessions with heavily treated tires. Foams OK

XRated SCT

Do all 3 diffs. run the same screws??

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

Yes. All three are identical except for the spur/rings and outdrives.

Gso125

iTrader: (28)

Yes

Derry

iTrader: (27)

Like the guy I quoted... I'm not the only one who has noticed it.

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

Just curious what stuff you noticed it with.

shawn213

I can see your point but i know in my area it had done just the opposite the one shop within 50 miles that stocks losi parts, and you don't just get an well i can order that when you ask about a part. they are not on the hcp list.


i know the few small shops i was in they don't have a pos (point of sale) system so unless they do 100k in horizon sales it isn't their choice.

yeah i was one of the people waiting for the original ten-scte when it first came out but this is something completly diffrent EVERY ONE that ordered that kit got it at the same time

Derry

iTrader: (27)

sticky fingers and green dot are the 2 I use the most.

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

Thanks. I've got some fresh panthers to glue up for the short course showdown in a week. I'm going to see if I specifically notice any degradation. Nothing scientific of course.

Derry

iTrader: (27)

Yeah... Good luck at the showdown race! Funnest races I have ever attended. I made the A in both Mod 2w and 4w this year at the Tacoma WA stop. I was stoked... Scotty puts on a good show.

Maglin

Might be a good idea to use a roll form tap to pre-thread the diffs. I wouldn't use a tap that cuts threads as it will just weaken the threads and lessen the amount of times you will be able to tear it down. I haven't built a kit in 21 years, and so far haven't had any issues. I still have the last kit I built btw "Kyosho Outlaw Rampage". I'm also not using any taps. I didn't even pre-thread the first diff, but I will the next 2.

Ryan you haven't commented on the counter sink issue with the chassis. This is a manufacturing flaw that should be addressed. Should new chassis's be sent out? NO!!! But might want to make this change now before the entire world thinks LOSI can't program or hire a company that can program a simple CNC drill/counter sink operation. Unless it was just a tool issue for so many runs before it was caught.

And just for grins I'm already working out in CAD/CAM a titanium shock tower for this kit along with a motor mount. For no other reason then I have large enough scrap Ti laying around the shop to do it and see the weight difference. Thought a chassis would be cool but just the stock it to expensive to even bother with it. No scraps that large laying around. I'm off to work on the 2.0 some more.

shawn213

i don't think alot of people are going to have a 2.6mm tap laying around but you could always get a 2.6x10mm cap head screw and use that to prethread the holes the cap head screw will take a lot larger hex wrench so you won't strip it. i would only do that if you were worried about stripping the screws that are in the diff myself i have never had an issue and i have been running the ten-scte since it was first released

hkrob

iTrader: (18)

Finished my build yesterday overall very easy only issue was 1 stripped diff screw and a small burr on the steering post that kept the bearing from sliding on light sanding fixed it. I really like the new battery tray it is a huge improvement over the 1.0 and APE tray. Track test later today will post results.

SCTE 2.0 roller is 1.5oz lighter than my kingshead, TLR,ape tray 1.0 roller.
My 2.0 is 6.09# ready to race




I still need to clean up the wiring.