mainly want to use a radio box because i use a capacitor and the placement of the RX is right next to the open vent on the body

will

Just a note on my receiver box:

Looking back at my first post, I saw where I was running the MBX7e in the end of January 2013. Since then, I have not had a reason to open the receiver box up until last week when I needed to remove the battery tray for some maintenance (requiring that I unplug the ESC from the receiver).

In both of my ECO's, when I'd open the receiver box, it would have a large amount of dust build up inside. I use small pieces of cut foam to hold the contents in place, and these would be completely saturated in dust. Although this has never caused any known problems, I just found it interesting how this "sealed" box would get so much dust in it.

When converting the ECO receiver box to fit the 7, I too wasn't keen on having to chop up the bottom of the receiver box. But, as mentioned by a few others and with 20+ years of 1/10 racing with the receivers simply mounted to the chassis (out in the open), I figured a partial box probably wouldn't hurt anything.

Upon opening the receiver box last week, I was pleasantly surprised on how little dust was present in the receiver box. I had joked with some of my fellow racers on how I made the hole intentionally (on the bottom), so that the dust would fall out. Appears to not have been a joke.

Interesting to say the least.

HI VWDUUD

Interesting point about the 'vented radio box'.
Is there any reason to use plastic spurs and therefore require a mbx6 centre diff ? In my mbx6eco i used plastic, and it did wear , mainly from hanging out the bottom. With the 7e i have kept with the std nitro spur and it is surprising quiet and will surely be harder wearing.

Will

Although I have run a metal spur gear on a Hot Bodies Truggy, I've never run one on any Mugen. My truggy squealed like a pig with the metal gear, but it beat no longer stripping the plastic spur gear, which happened on a regular basis.

Having owned the 2 ECO's and now this 7, I rarely (if ever) feel the need to replace the plastic spur gear. This also applies to a lot of guys running Mugen. Some of which used to run Losi requiring a full stock of plastic spur gears as they were always stripping them. None of us have stripped the plastic ECO spur gear.

I have to admit, the thought crossed my mind to try the 7 metal spur gear with 7 diff case. Actually had the diff built up and in my parts box until someone offered to buy it from me. So, I never had a chance to try it.

Could be a tuning aid as the metal spur gear would offer a little more of the "flywheel" affect over the plastic gear.

Lastly, as far as wear, my HB truggy metal spur gear actually showed greater wear than a plastic gear. Also the thinner profile would wear the wider pinion unevenly.

That's just my experiences.

First priority is to finish races, second noise and last gear wear. If Mugen's plastic spur gears never strip and the wear is more even, I'll stay with the plastic to reduce some noise.

Either way is fine. Just personal preference. Although I would like to run all 7 diff components, I'm fine running the 6 diff case in the center.

Jim

VW how would you line everything up if you don't have a eco chassis?

Lets see some pics

If you had a battery tray, you could use that to help locate the holes.

I could take a few measurements of some relative distances of at least one hole.

With that one hole drilled, you could then eyeball the battery tray with respect to the center diff and any other measurements from known components (I can provide any measurements you'd like).

Obviously, the ECO chassis is the easiest way to do it. Not sure where you race, but perhaps a fellow racer has a worn ECO chassis laying around that you could borrow. Or even allow you to use a chassis that's in use, just disassembled.

Let me know if you need some measurements. I'd be glad to take them, with photos, and post them.

Jim

Check out page 1 of this thread. I documented the build with photos.

If there's a specific shot you don't see, please let me know.

Jim

There are a few that still run the eco. But if not I will pm you when the time comes.. Just got my nitro and now working on another one to convert.. Preciate the quick response.

You're welcome.

Although I change shock setups often, based on the track and temps, this is my base setup.

WOO HOO, raced my 7 last night and this thing is just pure AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!! All I changed last night was the front sway bar down to a 2.1 and this thing was hooked up. Fastest electric race I have ever run on the first night out. Thanks a ton Jim for all of your info in this thread and at the track, being I am lucky enough to run with you We have quite the collection of 7e's at our home track now.
If anyone was wondering about the metal spur, that is what I am running and it is pleasantly quiet. I'm sure Jim will vouch for that.

I ended up just running screws into the battery tray and left the front two 2mm sticking further out than the others and put a dab of black paint on all the screw heads and gently sat it on the chassis leaving black dots to drill from.

No doubt. Looked, sounded and performed great.

Another 7e on the track.

Hi
Has anyone tried different body shells for 7e, my old mugen eco shell fits, so id imagine all eco shells do, but what mbx nitro shells clear the batteries?
Bitty doesnt i have tried.

Will