Originally Posted by Jmuck69 (Post 11780846)

What did you use?

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 11743666)

I run a 4100 shorty, ballast, 1/4 in each triangle abd 1/2 next to the receiver for 1530 grams. even without the 14g next to the receiver and the ballast, I would be over 1500. It must be in the electronics. I even have a LP servo.

Originally Posted by MODELTECH22 (Post 11781252)

I would be very interested in what you are running now with your notes. Thank you for this Eli!

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 11781253)

I was thinking the same thing. My buggy felt stiff with the 1.6's and wondered if 1.6's with a full pack would feel better. I run on a low bite track and kinda feel weight would be my friend. when I race indoors, a lighter car would definitely be better.

Originally Posted by Eli (Post 11781392)

This set-up is very close to steven hartsons set-up.
front end 2mm on ball stud
2mm bump steer
24mm ride weight
0 or -.5 camber
30 degree 3 hole caster blocks
aluminum bell cranks-jc
front shocks-1.6x2, 3 limiters, 30wae, green spring, inner hole on tower outside on arm
carbon front arms and top plate
rear end
3.0 inner toe total
2 degree anti-squat
-1 camber
24mm ride height
plastic hubs in the b hole (a tower-standard location)
hubs middle
2mm unshaved carbon u-brace
rear shocks, 1.6x2 piston, 2 limiters, 27.5wae, white spring, inside hole on tower inside hole on arm, plastic rear arms.

battery-reedy 5500 60c forward position
no ballast under shock tower, 5 grams each rear triangle and 20 grams next to receiver
motor 7.5t 81/24
bfast diff ceramic thrust carbide main balls
jc mono wheels, jc ti. turnbuckles and ti. front axles

Tires rear: version 1 green barcodes broken in, jc 3206-2 profiled foam
front gold barcodes with a 3/4 rear open cell jc and1 foam-comes with
sauce sticky kicks pink/blanco. other sticky kicks im sure works havent had time to test
Body jc finisher
wing new JC high clearance 7" with 2 lines of wicker

Notes, may try slightly thicker shock oils but pretty happy with the current oil but any higher grip and it might not work. Might take the 20 grams out next to the reciever and add a glitch buster just because. may do a very slight roll center change, instead of 2mm may use 2 silver washers front and rear. Would like to test with the rear shock on outer hole on rear arm with green spring and less droop washers or try a truck rear shock shaft assuming its longer so i can run atleast 2 limiters to keep the piston off the botom of the shock body.
If i left antything out i appologize, at work and slightly sleep deprived with too much coffee (could barely keep my eyes open last night at the track the last few hours lol)

Car likes to be driven hard when needed




I was thinking this set-up would be great for you to try ;)

Originally Posted by Cridd (Post 11781364)

Just got a scale;
I am running an orion 5000 at 290g, ballast, 1/4 in each triange and 1/2 next to the receiver and I am at 1657g. I am running a SXX V2 with a Reedy 13.5. I am a fatty, I am going to go on a diet I guess. My thougths are to remove all the weight and go to a shorty battery, any thoughts from you guys?

Originally Posted by Bob Barry (Post 11781417)

I'm just curious, have you tried the exact same chassis setup but with the 1.7 pistons and 37.5 / 35 oil?

Originally Posted by Eli (Post 11781392)

This set-up is very close to steven hartsons set-up.
front end 2mm on ball stud
2mm bump steer
24mm ride weight
0 or -.5 camber
30 degree 3 hole caster blocks
aluminum bell cranks-jc
front shocks-1.6x2, 3 limiters, 30wae, green spring, inner hole on tower outside on arm
carbon front arms and top plate
rear end
3.0 inner toe total
2 degree anti-squat
-1 camber
24mm ride height
plastic hubs in the b hole (a tower-standard location)
hubs middle
2mm unshaved carbon u-brace
rear shocks, 1.6x2 piston, 2 limiters, 27.5wae, white spring, inside hole on tower inside hole on arm, plastic rear arms.

battery-reedy 5500 60c forward position
no ballast under shock tower, 5 grams each rear triangle and 20 grams next to receiver
motor 7.5t 81/24
bfast diff ceramic thrust carbide main balls
jc mono wheels, jc ti. turnbuckles and ti. front axles

Tires rear: version 1 green barcodes broken in, jc 3206-2 profiled foam
front gold barcodes with a 3/4 rear open cell jc and1 foam-comes with
sauce sticky kicks pink/blanco. other sticky kicks im sure works havent had time to test
Body jc finisher
wing new JC high clearance 7" with 2 lines of wicker

Notes, may try slightly thicker shock oils but pretty happy with the current oil but any higher grip and it might not work. Might take the 20 grams out next to the reciever and add a glitch buster just because. may do a very slight roll center change, instead of 2mm may use 2 silver washers front and rear. Would like to test with the rear shock on outer hole on rear arm with green spring and less droop washers or try a truck rear shock shaft assuming its longer so i can run atleast 2 limiters to keep the piston off the botom of the shock body.
If i left antything out i appologize, at work and slightly sleep deprived with too much coffee (could barely keep my eyes open last night at the track the last few hours lol)

Car likes to be driven hard when needed




I was thinking this set-up would be great for you to try ;)

Originally Posted by MODELTECH22 (Post 11781514)

Thank you for taking the time Eli.

Originally Posted by Eli (Post 11781392)

This set-up is very close to steven hartsons set-up.
front end 2mm on ball stud
2mm bump steer
24mm ride weight
0 or -.5 camber
30 degree 3 hole caster blocks
aluminum bell cranks-jc
front shocks-1.6x2, 3 limiters, 30wae, green spring, inner hole on tower outside on arm
carbon front arms and top plate
rear end
3.0 inner toe total
2 degree anti-squat
-1 camber
24mm ride height
plastic hubs in the b hole (a tower-standard location)
hubs middle
2mm unshaved carbon u-brace
rear shocks, 1.6x2 piston, 2 limiters, 27.5wae, white spring, inside hole on tower inside hole on arm, plastic rear arms.

battery-reedy 5500 60c forward position
no ballast under shock tower, 5 grams each rear triangle and 20 grams next to receiver
motor 7.5t 81/24
bfast diff ceramic thrust carbide main balls
jc mono wheels, jc ti. turnbuckles and ti. front axles

Tires rear: version 1 green barcodes broken in, jc 3206-2 profiled foam
front gold barcodes with a 3/4 rear open cell jc and1 foam-comes with
sauce sticky kicks pink/blanco. other sticky kicks im sure works havent had time to test
Body jc finisher
wing new JC high clearance 7" with 2 lines of wicker

Notes, may try slightly thicker shock oils but pretty happy with the current oil but any higher grip and it might not work. Might take the 20 grams out next to the reciever and add a glitch buster just because. may do a very slight roll center change, instead of 2mm may use 2 silver washers front and rear. Would like to test with the rear shock on outer hole on rear arm with green spring and less droop washers or try a truck rear shock shaft assuming its longer so i can run atleast 2 limiters to keep the piston off the botom of the shock body.
If i left antything out i appologize, at work and slightly sleep deprived with too much coffee (could barely keep my eyes open last night at the track the last few hours lol)

Car likes to be driven hard when needed




I was thinking this set-up would be great for you to try ;)

Originally Posted by MikeXray (Post 11781659)

I had been running green fronts, but I'm finding that once I get past a certain spring rate the car doesn't jump well, where it doesn't absorb landings as well, and will jump crooked more often. I also found the same behavior with a black front in the middle upper tower hole. I have 1.6x32 and we have med-high bite on slicks. Its a shame because I kinda like the turning characteristics of the stiffer spring, which I will probably play with the link shims to see if I can replicate. I ended up with black/white from the brwn/grn I started with. I drove a friends rb6 though, and that car made me want my car to feel a lot different than it does :(

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 11781762)

You only discovered your set-up is not correct and you need to go drive a B4 that is performing well ...
If you do set-up correctly you should be able to give your buddy a test drive with and let him discover your ride is way better ....:batman:

BTW
driving other cars is perhaps the fastest way to discover what is working and whats not ...

Highly recommend you do often...

Originally Posted by MikeXray (Post 11781804)

This is true, exactly what I said to him way "this car does everything I'm trying to fix on my car"

I can't get to the track more than 2-3 times a month, so since I've had this car I HAVE tested a lot of changes, but so far they all seem to make small changes in feel, or huge undriveable ones..

Originally Posted by MikeXray (Post 11781659)

I had been running green fronts, but I'm finding that once I get past a certain spring rate the car doesn't jump well, where it doesn't absorb landings as well, and will jump crooked more often. I also found the same behavior with a black front in the middle upper tower hole. I have 1.6x32 and we have med-high bite on slicks. Its a shame because I kinda like the turning characteristics of the stiffer spring, which I will probably play with the link shims to see if I can replicate. I ended up with black/white from the brwn/grn I started with. I drove a friends rb6 though, and that car made me want my car to feel a lot different than it does :(