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Originally Posted by Tony Vega
(Post 11767029)
No they still rub. You need to mount the carbon tower on the backside of the hub carrier and use an ASC6277 ball stud and space it out with a 2mm spacer (ASC31326). It angles the camber link back slightly and there is no rubbing even under stress when the arm flexes.
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Originally Posted by Cridd
(Post 11766895)
Yes bad glue is bad.
Most like the clean look and run through tower. |
Originally Posted by Cridd
(Post 11765171)
Even better, pm me if you get them done.
I will take one to if you do them |
No issues with my 4.2.
I do have to say that aluminum shock mounts on aluminum shock caps is unbelievably stupid. I put the old school plastic shocks mounts on. And IMO, hexes on a buggy is silly. I put the old school stuff on. |
Originally Posted by F18engineguy
(Post 11767053)
Thats too bad, big disappointment. not sure why they could not have changed the geometry of the rear tower slightly to avoid this.
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Originally Posted by snaketaco
(Post 11765829)
This is what my awesome girl went out and got me today!
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ill up a pic win i get home to night you guys will pick out the bo bo i made
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Originally Posted by snaketaco
(Post 11765829)
This is what my awesome girl went out and got me today!
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For those with shock caps not fitting over the bushing....has anyone measured the parts to see where the difference is????
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no offense but most of the people on the previous page need some grammar classes
Originally Posted by Manning
(Post 11767146)
No issues with my 4.2.
I do have to say that aluminum shock mounts on aluminum shock caps is unbelievably stupid. I put the old school plastic shocks mounts on. And IMO, hexes on a buggy is silly. I put the old school stuff on. |
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For the guys complaining about the rear camber link rubbing on the shock are you guys running a spacer on the lower shock rod and are you guys using the shorter ball stud on the hub side?
Im currently running no spacing on the tower just some dremel work like the .2 tower has molded in, 2mm on the arm to space the shock out and the shorter ball stud on my hub and dont believe i am experiencing any rubbing issues even with the b44 arms that flex more. Theres a reasonable amount of clearance between the spring on my big bores and the camber link. |
Originally Posted by Jmuck69
(Post 11766967)
He used a cut down rear T plate. I believe using a plastic T plate is better since it will not stiffen the chassis and plastic would have minimal influence.
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Originally Posted by Manning
(Post 11767146)
No issues with my 4.2.
I do have to say that aluminum shock mounts on aluminum shock caps is unbelievably stupid. I put the old school plastic shocks mounts on. And IMO, hexes on a buggy is silly. I put the old school stuff on. |
Originally Posted by Eli
(Post 11767642)
For the guys complaining about the rear camber link rubbing on the shock are you guys running a spacer on the lower shock rod and are you guys using the shorter ball stud on the hub side?
Im currently running no spacing on the tower just some dremel work like the .2 tower has molded in, 2mm on the arm to space the shock out and the shorter ball stud on my hub and dont believe i am experiencing any rubbing issues even with the b44 arms that flex more. Theres a reasonable amount of clearance between the spring on my big bores and the camber link. |
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