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Testors brand paint pen works good too.
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 12597754)
ahem, http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...%20%202013.pdf
Pages 6, 12, and 14 It would be very inaccurate to try and "float" the measurement at the center of the cup when your talking about half mm precision. Besides, if that is your only method of setting camber and toe then your SOL if you ever want to change those angles, raise and lower roll center, etc. Which is something I imagine you would need to do if your setting up cars for factory team drivers. |
My camber gauge ?
A bottle of traction sauce :cry: My ride height gauge ? Any body close by with one I can borrow ;) Caliper 's ????? The guy that pits next to me has a set ....:D |
camber gauge talk now? I just use the square one that is included in the kit lol
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lol camber gauge, soda can for 0 and ae gauge for -1. ride height gauge make sure those arms are closest to straight as i can get.
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I have heard of people using objects such as those, i was just fortunate enough that i enherated a few things from my dad and three of those things where a ride height gauge and a camber gauge and a flat board. im just not as consistent setting up my stuff with those things is all thats why i use the tools but to each their own. So do you guys like the proline vortex body, or the jconcepts illuzion finisher body better?
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Originally Posted by rc car guy
(Post 12599119)
look kid i am try to help you. you dont have to take my advice but the guys that know what they are doing something similar to what i have told you to do. i am sorry that you dont want my advice but dont mock it try it get a camber guage and a ride height gauge, standard stuff thats what i use and a set of digital calipers i am sorry i will stop trying to help you
Not sure what makes you think i'm a "kid" obviously has nothing to do with the amount of time spent on this site. |
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 12597784)
I got some of that scratch fixer paint in the automotive section at walmart to color the positive side of my batteries. I'm single, so I have no access to nail polish. (Sure as hell not getting caught dead buying it)
As for the turnbuckle lengths your seeing way more into it then you should If you need to change anything just readjust This isnt F1. On top of that when you set everything on a perfectly flat table is that the way the track is? There are only so many things you can setup which are just baseline. When you get the car on the track that is the most important how it handles and makes you fast. besides you read the manual wrong. Just admit it:D |
Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
(Post 12599948)
Better Idea red fuel tubing and a dab of glue... done!
As for the turnbuckle lengths your seeing way more into it then you should If you need to change anything just readjust This isnt F1. On top of that when you set everything on a perfectly flat table is that the way the track is? There are only so many things you can setup which are just baseline. When you get the car on the track that is the most important how it handles and makes you fast. besides you read the manual wrong. Just admit it:D |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
(Post 12599948)
Better Idea red fuel tubing and a dab of glue... done!
besides you read the manual wrong. Just admit it:D I'm all about discussing differences of opinions, but have a low tolerance for misstatements of basic facts. http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...ad-capture.png |
The b4.1 manual, if I recall correctly, measures from the center of the ball cups unlike the b4.2.
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 12600016)
If you think i'm wrong about what the manual says, your either mentally incompetent, too lazy to actually click the link, or just screwing with me. Maybe the old manual used a different system of measurement.
I'm all about discussing differences of opinions, but have a low tolerance for misstatements of basic facts. http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...ad-capture.png |
The old manual that I built from did use a center-to-center measurement, not an inside of the ball cup shoulder measurement. So, guess what? You both win! Seriously though, by the time you factor in the amount of play that exists between the ball cups and suspension arms, the biggest favour you can do yourself is making sure they're the same length and adjust from there. You'll also notice that once the car breaks in (aka gets a little slop in the suspension) it'll handle better. Your best bet is to deny your instincts of shimming away the slop, sloppy is fast! LOL!
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Are the hinge pins 3mm or 1/8" on the B4.X? I'm rebuilding one of mine and the front caster block is so tight I can't get the pin through it and I was going to buy a reamer. Should have measured the pin or brought it with me but I didn't. Anyone know?
Or are they 7/64": http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...gory_Code=HPIN |
Originally Posted by adam lancia
(Post 12600065)
The old manual that I built from did use a center-to-center measurement, not an inside of the ball cup shoulder measurement. So, guess what? You both win! Seriously though, by the time you factor in the amount of play that exists between the ball cups and suspension arms, the biggest favour you can do yourself is making sure they're the same length and adjust from there. You'll also notice that once the car breaks in (aka gets a little slop in the suspension) it'll handle better. Your best bet is to deny your instincts of shimming away the slop, sloppy is fast! LOL!
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper
(Post 12600088)
Are the hinge pins 3mm or 1/8" on the B4.X? I'm rebuilding one of mine and the front caster block is so tight I can't get the pin through it and I was going to buy a reamer. Should have measured the pin or brought it with me but I didn't. Anyone know?
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