I didn't like lack of forward bite of the Losi on low to med-low traction tracks. Very stable car aside from that though. I'd be interested in giving one another go.

Yes. Started with a B4.1 worlds, tried a 22 for a while, and reverted to a B4.2. The AE works everywhere with very small changes to the shocks and roll center. The 22 you would have to chase the setup as the track conditions changed and was a hassle to wrench on.

The new 22 2.0 is supposedly a good improvement over the original, but haven't given it a try yet. A local fast kid (Zack Genova) was trying one out this weekend and seemed to like it. Still beat him, though :sneaky:

Zack does not have a chassis sponsor? He is pretty quick

They parted ways with their former chassis sponsor earlier in the year. Zack has been running a B4.2, X6 Cubed, and now the 22 2.0. Believe Zack intends to bring both the 22 and the Cubed to the Worlds.

got a question for you guys as far as where to look for a potential issue.

When running my B4, I noticed almost like a whistling sound midway through the races as I would come down off of jumps or bumpy sections.

part of me is thinking a bearing somewhere is starting to go, but not sure.

Any ideas?

So he is headed into the worlds without a chassis sponsor...weird. Since your beating him, are you going to the worlds also :)

Hah, not any time soon. I'm not prepared for an event of that caliber.

Well, I sold my 22 because it was inconsistent and temperamental when the tracks moisture changed. TLR says they fixed that type of issue with the 2.0. And finding people that had the b4, went 2.0 and then went back to b4 are slim right now. But I would PM ryanpatrickgore as he has the 2.0 and the b4.x right now. I think he only has 1 weekend on it so far.

I'll take Ryans new 22 Losi out for a spin & let you guys know ...

The old 22 ?

You had to make it steer first & deal with the lack of rear traction .... ...

Start with the low hanging fruit first. Start with the hub bearings, and see if they're gritty. If they pass, then it's time to take apart the tranny.

The hub bearings, and the diff bearings are usually the first to go.

Check your motor bearings as well.

thanks for the heads up.

Good thing I ordered in some more bearings earlier lol.

I believe the motor ones should be good, I had that whistling issue still go on when swapping motors, with the last one being new.

Orion 2kTC,

I always ran Associated but found an insane deal for a LNIB 22 with over $500 in parts, tires, batteries, and much more for $150 because the guy was in a pinch and I jumped on it. While I found it to be overall really well designed it had its shortcomings compared to the B4 in several ways. Firstly I found the slipper to have too small an adjustment window and the ball diff is a bit tricky in that, what is perhaps too tight on most race quality kits, was not tight enough on the 22.

Another thing I found with the 22 is that what is relatively simple and easy to get to for regular maintenance was a bit more involved on the 22 and at times was a bit frustrating. Once I had an outdrive crack in the first qualifier and had to rebuild my Tranny in order to be ready for the second qualifier and I barley made it back on the stand as they ware counting down the start. With my B4 I can do the same thing in half the time.

In terms of overall comparison in how they drove, the 22 lacked a bit of steering so I added what few bits it was missing and though it improved, it still wanted to push and required more work on the wheel and throttle to make it go around turns at speed. Brake early, turn in aggressively and then feather the throttle to whip the back end around and counter steer as I applied power. Part of the issue was down to the putrid slide-rack steering system, which, when brand new was more crisp with less play, but after a few outings would develop slop and then the steering would become less responsive. The only remedy for improvement was to install new parts.

I thought it was just me but a few local guys assured me that's just the characteristics of the car but that once I learned how to control it I would be able to drive faster. I had it for another 4 months and though I got it down really well, I never reached the level of comfort I had with my associated buggies in the past and would literally be sweating as I tried to keep up with the leaders. It got to be too much and I traded it for a 4.2 and never looked back.

The new 2.0 however has improved from what I've read, though most of what I've read comes from avid TLR guys who praise everything they make so I can't believe it 100%. And even though TLR always assured me there was nothing wrong with the slide rack system, the 2.0 has a much revised unit that eliminates much of the slop and it supposedly doesn't develop the slop like the previous system. So much for nothing being wrong with the previous system. Overall TLR's customer service tend to be top notch, but when it come to certain things they simply will not concede to there being anything wrong or a flaw with certain products/components and it puts me off from ever wanting to invest in their products.

Given all this info, you need to visit your local tracks and see if you can drive both and assess it from their.

Motor plate thickness
 

Does anyone know offhand how thick(mm) the motor plate is?

3mm

Not sure how thick it is but it will bend after a few crashes the avid motor plate is the way to go you wont bend that one.