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-   -   Team Associated B4.2 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/694124-team-associated-b4-2-thread.html)

Matt Trimmings 08-10-2013 03:35 PM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12434051)
Is zack an engineer at AE? he is like 14 year old no?

No, Zack lives in Florida. His Dad is Larry from Kustom RC Graphics. He is in the 16-18yr old range. You might be thinking of Kody Numendahl, originally from Colorado but just graduated college and is now works at AE as an engineer I believe.

Wildcat1971 08-10-2013 03:49 PM

they said something on liverc at nats. I looked him up and he was like 14. I cant see that pick well. is it a narrowed b4 chassis with cf bracing it?

Matt Trimmings 08-10-2013 03:56 PM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12434089)
they said something on liverc at nats. I looked him up and he was like 14. I cant see that pick well. is it a narrowed b4 chassis with cf bracing it?

It's a narrowed AE chassis with what looks like the C4 carbon bracing on it. Zack isnt at nats this year. Try this: http://www.kustomrcgraphics.net/wp-c...ent.aspx_.jpeg

Wildcat1971 08-10-2013 04:02 PM

and nice for kody. It would be nice to work in a field that is also your hobby. When I was a kid, rc motivated me to go college for ME, but 2 years in I changed my mind.

Wildcat1971 08-10-2013 04:03 PM

looks like a t4 chassis. I know tess and a few other were doing this last year.

YankeeFan123 08-10-2013 06:54 PM

I messaged Larry on FB and this is what he said about Zacks ride:

"He used a t4 chassis, cut it down sides. Used the carbon c4.1 chassis stiffeners avid esc mount and made a battery brace from carbon fiber. That's basically it. A Proline c4.1 body fits perfect and it handles awesome"

jdeadman 08-10-2013 07:54 PM

Im running a T4 Chassis Narrowed with custom sides that fit with the 22 body. My next version will be a even narrower Chassis (3mm wider on each side from the battery tray to run wiring and a custom body. I Have access to a 3D Printer so I am going to try and design one in SolidWorks this Winter. I Might even try a Chassis. It will be heavier but then I can design in all the things that I want like a separate ESC area then a divider between the battery. Also a Dedicated mount for the Small Transponders in the front bulkhead

I like to Modify all of my rides ;)

DG Designs 08-10-2013 08:29 PM

So how much longer is the t4 than the 4.2?

jdeadman 08-10-2013 08:51 PM

The 4.2 is 8 mm longer than the B4 and the t4 is 15mm Longer than the B4 so about 7mm

Wild Cherry 08-11-2013 12:55 AM

Roar Nationals @ Chico California
 
Ryan Cavalieri 1st & Mayfield 2nd qualifier's in buggy .....:tire:

shadow76 08-11-2013 02:29 AM

2 Attachment(s)
up date on this track yesterday i got run on this track with my b4 2 man this track loved the power of my 8.5 and the speed this is a fast track, full speed hitting that 8 foot by 35 foot long bank turn loved it if your close to old fordge pa look it up you wont be dissapointed at this track drp dunn rc park look it up on face book too

Cody227 08-11-2013 04:31 AM


Originally Posted by YankeeFan123 (Post 12433909)
That conversion kit that a user on here was developing looks a lot more enticing now:lol: $190+ is a lot more what's only included with it

Do you mean my chassis? If so, nice that you like it, it get's better everytime I work on it. I also get help from D.Martijn, it's always helpful to have a second opion/ideas on things regarding the design, espacially because we race on very different tracks.

This is the newest rendering:

http://i.imgur.com/OfWqs6g.jpg

Grasschopper 08-11-2013 05:53 AM

Wow did I struggle with the B4 yesterday after a month off. I had NO traction for practice and then the first two rounds of quals. Finally made a couple changes that made a difference for heat 3 and traction came up in the track helping too. I was dialed in the main and wound up 4th...should have been higher but I kept misjudging the 'ant hill' turn and got stuck on the inside pipe 3 or 4 times :flaming: which cost me at least one position.

So I had tried 3 sets of tires:AKA Impacts in soft (which are just useless on this track), JCon FlipOuts in super soft (which were the tire) and ProLine Tazers (which hooked up great last time here but not at all this time). Ran the AKA in practice and knew they weren't the choice so switched to the FlipOuts to finish practice and run the first heat. Wasn't happy with the traction so I went to the Tazers with some sauce (had sauced the FlipOuts too) for the second heat and it was like I was on ice...no traction at ALL. They didn't water after the first round so I think this had some to do with it but these tires really hooked up the last time I raced. Did I sauce them wrong maybe? What is the proper technique? I applied and allowed to dry. Finished that heat dead last by a lap (and really pissed). Changed back to the FlipOuts with no sauce this time and also went from Avid red to Avid yellow springs in the back and added a deg of camber (-2 to -3)...but really I think the moisture coming up made the biggest difference in traction. I felt dialed in the main.

YankeeFan123 08-11-2013 08:42 AM


Originally Posted by Grasschopper (Post 12435416)
Wow did I struggle with the B4 yesterday after a month off. I had NO traction for practice and then the first two rounds of quals. Finally made a couple changes that made a difference for heat 3 and traction came up in the track helping too. I was dialed in the main and wound up 4th...should have been higher but I kept misjudging the 'ant hill' turn and got stuck on the inside pipe 3 or 4 times :flaming: which cost me at least one position.

So I had tried 3 sets of tires:AKA Impacts in soft (which are just useless on this track), JCon FlipOuts in super soft (which were the tire) and ProLine Tazers (which hooked up great last time here but not at all this time). Ran the AKA in practice and knew they weren't the choice so switched to the FlipOuts to finish practice and run the first heat. Wasn't happy with the traction so I went to the Tazers with some sauce (had sauced the FlipOuts too) for the second heat and it was like I was on ice...no traction at ALL. They didn't water after the first round so I think this had some to do with it but these tires really hooked up the last time I raced. Did I sauce them wrong maybe? What is the proper technique? I applied and allowed to dry. Finished that heat dead last by a lap (and really pissed). Changed back to the FlipOuts with no sauce this time and also went from Avid red to Avid yellow springs in the back and added a deg of camber (-2 to -3)...but really I think the moisture coming up made the biggest difference in traction. I felt dialed in the main.

I really like Sticky Kicks tire sauce and at my track white is the preferred color. I usually try to apply 10-15 min before the race, but sometimes that's not possible and it has to be like 5 min. As long as the tire absorbs it and its not still sitting on the rubber. I sauce the all across both the fronts and rears.

CaptainGizmo 08-11-2013 09:01 AM

Best Dremel Tip for Wire Holes
 

Originally Posted by ronzo (Post 12432532)
whats the best way to drill the holes for the servo wire?
thanks

Without a doubt, THE BEST BIT is the small 199 HIGH SPEED CUTTER. It's about 3/8" in diameter and about 1/16" thick. It works perfectly by just plunging it into the chassis and just gently moving the bit side to side and up and down slightly to enlarge the hole the right dimension.


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