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Originally Posted by Dirtryder219
(Post 12238065)
Mostly mid corner, coming on throttle and sometimes entering the corner without throttle. I found myself using more brake to get the rear end to swing around. This is only in 180* turns. 90* turns it does not seem as bad. I am running 17.5 blinky so momentum is a premium for some of the bigger jumps out of the turns.
It's funny, everyone here gets sooooooooooooooooooo caught up with roll center, they never learn how to tune anything else. |
Originally Posted by B.A. Racer
(Post 12238107)
Don't listen to this guy. A car isn't going to make or break your driving. If your not super fast with a b4...the rb6 isn't going to make you super fast either.
Right now there are too many options as to why your car isn't turning. A couple of the easiest adjustments to check is your ride height and to check the rebound in your shocks. Also make sure your diff is good and that your slipper is adjusted right. If all that is perfect....look at local fast guys for setup. I cannot stress this enough! What may work at my home track may not work at yours. And of course....Tires,tires,tires! Without the right tires...no chassis tuning will make a difference. Um, yes it will. You should try a (lesser) brand buggy and compare to a B4.2. Do not tell me the car does not effect your driving even with perfect setup. My professionally setup B4.2 and RB6 on the same conditions is just not comparable. The RB6 is a remarkable buggy. Then again, I have never really had luck with the Associated 2wd buggy's. I am fine with all of there other cars, I just can not drive there 2wd buggy :lol: |
Originally Posted by Team G Racing
(Post 12238121)
Um, yes it will. You should try a (lesser) brand buggy and compare to a B4.2. Do not tell me the car does not effect your driving even with perfect setup. My professionally setup B4.2 and RB6 on the same conditions is just not comparable. The RB6 is a remarkable buggy. Then again, I have never really had luck with the Associated 2wd buggy's. I am fine with all of there other cars, I just can not drive there 2wd buggy :lol:
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Originally Posted by B.A. Racer
(Post 12238131)
Whatever you say, man. Every buggy just needs to be tuned. Too many people buy a buggy and 1 month later sell it because they don't want to make their own setup. And I have tried multiple other brands of buggies...:rolleyes:
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Originally Posted by ifuonlyknew
(Post 12238043)
On throttle or off throttle?
Originally Posted by B.A. Racer
(Post 12238107)
Don't listen to this guy. A car isn't going to make or break your driving. If your not super fast with a b4...the rb6 isn't going to make you super fast either.
Right now there are too many options as to why your car isn't turning. A couple of the easiest adjustments to check is your ride height and to check the rebound in your shocks. Also make sure your diff is good and that your slipper is adjusted right. If all that is perfect....look at local fast guys for setup. I cannot stress this enough! What may work at my home track may not work at yours. And of course....Tires,tires,tires! Without the right tires...no chassis tuning will make a difference.
Originally Posted by t4ftracer
(Post 12238111)
What battery are you using and placement of spacers?
Originally Posted by ifuonlyknew
(Post 12238117)
What spacers do you run in the shocks? Try unscrewing rear shock eyelets 2 turns. That will let more weight transfer forward off throttle. Adding a spacer inside the front shocks will keep more weight on the front end when you get on throttle. What are you running for camber, toe, caster, and bumpsteer. Where are your rear hubs? As counter intuitive as it may sound, moving the hubs back will free up the car on throttle. Go to a little toe out in the front and it will make the car a little more aggressive. You could move the front shocks in on the tower and arm, which will allow more weight transfer.
It's funny, everyone here gets sooooooooooooooooooo caught up with roll center, they never learn how to tune anything else. I appreciate everyone's help!!!! This is my 1st AE car and I don't want to give up on it, it is very easy to drive and I feel more consistent with it than my 22. Doesn't feel like I have to push it as hard to be fast. Actually had the fastest laps tonight for 17.5 blinky, but, I know it had more in it! Would love the push to go away to see what it can really do!! :sneaky::nod: |
Originally Posted by Team G Racing
(Post 12238137)
Yup I agree with you, but after a few years of Associated buggies with a ton of setup changes. I am still not going to give up on my 4.2 though ;) Will keep working on it for years to come until I can finally get it down lol.
Get over it, just cause you were unable to find a set up you like does not mean that other people are just as "unfortunate" as you. Don't get me wrong the RB6 and 5 for that matter are excellent cars but I am perfectly happy watching the 4.2 continue to dominate |
Originally Posted by Tradin Paint
(Post 12238159)
I can't believe that AE was able to hide all the handling issues they have until the RB6 came out. These guys are good.
Get over it, just cause you were unable to find a set up you like does not mean that other people are just as "unfortunate" as you. Don't get me wrong the RB6 and 5 for that matter are excellent cars but I am perfectly happy watching the 4.2 continue to dominate |
Originally Posted by Dirtryder219
(Post 12238149)
Orion WTS w/1 silver weight in front, cells in back with small and large foam spacer behind battery.
indoor i like cells front (full pad front if esc in 'norm' thin pad in front if esc on shelf) with no weight. seems to help alot on mid & exit without the weight. just remember that 85% of every turn is mid :D the other thing you may want to try for turn in would be to move the silver weight towards the back of the pack, if you so wish to keep it....or add a 2nd silver (pack will be ~250g then) i always liked the weights better when towards the back of the pack then when mounted closer to the cells when i ran the silver weights. |
Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 12238213)
i have been playing around with that same battery (but in mod) for a few months...
indoor i like cells front (full pad front if esc in 'norm' thin pad in front if esc on shelf) with no weight. seems to help alot on mid & exit without the weight. just remember that 85% of every turn is mid :D the other thing you may want to try for turn in would be to move the silver weight towards the back of the pack, if you so wish to keep it....or add a 2nd silver (pack will be ~250g then) i always liked the weights better when towards the back of the pack then when mounted closer to the cells when i ran the silver weights. |
Originally Posted by Dirtryder219
(Post 12238149)
Ride height is 24/23.5 FR/RR. Tires are the same as everyone else, gold Barcodes with closed cell insert. I will try open cell inserts tomorrow. Diff is free and smooth, this is one thing I take pride in. Sipper is tight, do you think it would help to lessen it? I have always been taught that it needs to be tight on med/high bite tracks.
Orion WTS w/1 silver weight in front, cells in back with small and large foam spacer behind battery. 3mm front and rear. Camber -1* FR/RR, 0* toe, 30* caster (stock), 2mm bump steer and the rear hubs have blue spacer front and silver rear. Front shocks are inside top, outside bottom. I appreciate everyone's help!!!! This is my 1st AE car and I don't want to give up on it, it is very easy to drive and I feel more consistent with it than my 22. Doesn't feel like I have to push it as hard to be fast. Actually had the fastest laps tonight for 17.5 blinky, but, I know it had more in it! Would love the push to go away to see what it can really do!! :sneaky::nod: |
Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie
(Post 12238277)
Try the 2 hole carbon c hubs. A properly set slipper will help. And what ackerman are you running?
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Where can I buy the centro c4.1 conversion kit at?
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Originally Posted by Madman1
(Post 12238378)
Where can I buy the centro c4.1 conversion kit at?
centro-rc.com |
Originally Posted by Dirtryder219
(Post 12238149)
Ride height is 24/23.5 FR/RR. Tires are the same as everyone else, gold Barcodes with closed cell insert. I will try open cell inserts tomorrow. Diff is free and smooth, this is one thing I take pride in. Sipper is tight, do you think it would help to lessen it? I have always been taught that it needs to be tight on med/high bite tracks.
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Originally Posted by Skillz_B
(Post 12237937)
If someone has a link to the pre sugar video of Maifield I would like to see it, I cannot find it.
You have to be logged into faceboook to view the videos. |
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