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-   -   Team Associated B4.2 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/694124-team-associated-b4-2-thread.html)

shagnat 03-23-2013 12:42 PM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 11963091)
Only used for its weight.

Usually when traction is very high ..

The plastic version is a lot lighter and performs best on most track conditions...

Wild, thanks for that. I was also curious about the aluminum bulkhead. So, no need in spending that $$. :smile:

savannahmick 03-23-2013 02:28 PM

I just finally updated to the big bore shocks on my Worlds B4.1 but confused a bit about shock standoffs/spacing. I did search first but too many posts to sift. Anyway I am trying to make sure I have the shocks right I got the updated towers, and the Avid short standoff for rear ,also the Avid standard standoff for front is the correct setup with new towers or should both standoffs be short? I also am wondering if I need to space the lower shock mount out from rear arm still with updated towers? OK one last question whats a good locknut to use on upper shock mount that won't gash the caps or come off? I lied how tight do you run the bleeder screw in seems to make oring pop out really easy? Thanks for any info/help!

mashimarowu 03-23-2013 03:02 PM


Originally Posted by savannahmick (Post 11963866)
I just finally updated to the big bore shocks on my Worlds B4.1 but confused a bit about shock standoffs/spacing. I did search first but too many posts to sift. Anyway I am trying to make sure I have the shocks right I got the updated towers, and the Avid short standoff for rear ,also the Avid standard standoff for front is the correct setup with new towers or should both standoffs be short? I also am wondering if I need to space the lower shock mount out from rear arm still with updated towers? OK one last question whats a good locknut to use on upper shock mount that won't gash the caps or come off? I lied how tight do you run the bleeder screw in seems to make oring pop out really easy? Thanks for any info/help!

Just space it so you don't have any binding when the stock is compressing/decompressing. Make sure to not have the shock scrape against your turnbuckles. As for the bleeder screw, tighten it till you can see the oring start coming out, no need to fully tighten it or else your oring will pop out. Just snug it up.

savannahmick 03-23-2013 03:16 PM

[QUOTE=mashimarowu;11963941]Just space it so you don't have any binding when the stock is compressing/decompressing. Make sure to not have the shock scrape against your turnbuckles. As for the bleeder screw, tighten it till you can see the oring start coming out, no need to fully tighten it or else your oring will pop out. Just snug it up.[/QUOTE. Ok Thanks! I really appreciate the help and any other advice on getting setup correctly.

Wildcat1971 03-23-2013 08:53 PM

Well got some good practice on the b4 today. Also, shorties can run for a LONG time. Lol. I put one pack in ran for 30 minutes, slapped another pack in and ran for 30 minutes and the motor was 110. I was actually suprised when my car stopped... lol. I was like, huh..oh lvc. I have never ran by b4 rill lvc before. Anyway, I let a few guys drive my buggy, mostly they hated my radio, but like the way the buggy handles. The said the wheel on my radio was too small and i replied that size does not mater.....

Venom1836 03-23-2013 10:07 PM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 11964883)
Well got some good practice on the b4 today. Also, shorties can run for a LONG time. Lol. I put one pack in ran for 30 minutes, slapped another pack in and ran for 30 minutes and the motor was 110. I was actually suprised when my car stopped... lol. I was like, huh..oh lvc. I have never ran by b4 rill lvc before. Anyway, I let a few guys drive my buggy, mostly they hated my radio, but like the way the buggy handles. The said the wheel on my radio was too small and i replied that size does not mater.....

Haha!!

What radio?

Wildcat1971 03-23-2013 10:30 PM

Airtronics mx3x

dragster 03-24-2013 02:06 AM

Hi all,
Just looking for some info on my B4, need more speed down the straights, looks a lot slower than the newer TLR 22, BL Novak 17.5 72/36, large out door track, any info would be helpful.

Cridd 03-24-2013 08:01 AM


Originally Posted by dragster (Post 11965399)
Hi all,
Just looking for some info on my B4, need more speed down the straights, looks a lot slower than the newer TLR 22, BL Novak 17.5 72/36, large out door track, any info would be helpful.

Get a Reedy with LRP!! Will beat them all!! LOL. Orion and Viper is good to.....I guess.

Other than faster motors or stronger battery, over my pay grade.

Wildcat1971 03-24-2013 08:21 AM


Originally Posted by dragster (Post 11965399)
Hi all,
Just looking for some info on my B4, need more speed down the straights, looks a lot slower than the newer TLR 22, BL Novak 17.5 72/36, large out door track, any info would be helpful.

I dont see why you would be a lot slower down the straight. For one the b4 is lighter than the tlr. Maybe they are cheating. lol. How much timing are you running?

t0p_sh0tta 03-24-2013 08:52 AM


Originally Posted by dragster (Post 11965399)
Hi all,
Just looking for some info on my B4, need more speed down the straights, looks a lot slower than the newer TLR 22, BL Novak 17.5 72/36, large out door track, any info would be helpful.

Is timing adjustable on the Novak motor? More timing on the can will give you more top end. I haven't run 17.5 in so long, I don't remember what gearing works, but most here are running the 69 tooth Kimborough spur.

Other than that, the batteries, gearing, and motors make a big difference in stock.

shagnat 03-24-2013 09:09 AM


Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta (Post 11966078)
Is timing adjustable on the Novak motor? More timing on the can will give you more top end. I haven't run 17.5 in so long, I don't remember what gearing works, but most here are running the 69 tooth Kimborough spur.

Other than that, the batteries, gearing, and motors make a big difference in stock.

+1

NovaCX12 03-24-2013 09:16 AM

For those who did the shaved u-brace mod and c hub, what hole on the c hub is a good starting point to use? Thanks!

3srcracing 03-24-2013 09:53 AM


Originally Posted by NovaCX12 (Post 11966153)
For those who did the shaved u-brace mod and c hub, what hole on the c hub is a good starting point to use? Thanks!

As far as I am aware everyone is running the standard 2 hole over from the inside of the car.

acuratech 03-24-2013 09:59 AM

ok I have a question. whats the dry weight of the buggy minus the battery. rough weight I know their is other factors.
roller with all electronics


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