The big bore shocks are bigger around than the v2 shocks, so they would rub on the tower if you didnt space them out further or remove some material.

when we started racing in December seemed like our tires lasted and would not wear out. Now every race we are wearing them pretty quick. Is it better and harder driving or something i should look at in the car?

Could be the surface coming in and getting more abrasive. I would ask around and see if others tires are wearing as quick as well.

Agreed, it might be time to go to the next harder compound.

If your driving and setup has gotten better your probably on the throttle more which may account for some of it

Matt
Can you show where this ROAR rule is stipulated?
Been a discussion point between some friends and I; I would like to be able to show them the documented rule.
Thanks,
Joe

If you continue to read the rest of that discussion you will see that i looked in the roar rulebook and wasnt able to find anything about it. But i do remember hearing from some that they were told to move their speedo out of the battery tray, and that the only thing allowed in there was actually the battery....i guess some got through tech with it so it just depended on who teched you, lol.

The spirit of the rule is something like this....

You can't build a car that forces the consumer to have to use a specific brand / type of battery. The car must be able to support X battery size.

I was told that this came about a few years back due to a 12th scale car that was designed to use only specific batteries. So if you wanted to run that car, you had to also run those batteries. This rule basically prevents AE from making a car that only supports batteries that are X size and then have Reedy make those batteries. Then they corner the market on those packs until the other companies offer a new battery to compete.

So while I'm not sure how it's worded, I believe that's the reason for any such rule and the thought process involved.

The context of the speed control in the battery tray is what piqued my interest.

I was searching the thread for "shorty" information and came across the post I quoted; I didn't much further and figured I would ask.

Thanks for the information.

So, all things being said about shorty batteries and not being able to run the speed control in the battery tray/slot, are many racers using the shorty batteries? And more specifically, are they using them on outdoor, large, loose dirt type tracks? Or are they sticking with full packs for those types of tracks?

I should add this is for 2WD Mod.

Thanks in advance.

Joe

For 2wd mod i would recommend a full size pack such as the wolfpack...especially on an outdoor loose dirt type of track i dont see the light weight of a shorty being beneficial, if anything it would hurt it. I would stick with the wolfpack at a minimum. Bur what Bob said is the main reason behind this shorty only car rule.

Here is the article that LiveRC did on the rule when ROAR released info about it.

http://www.liverc.com/news/special_f..._chassis_rule/

MUCH appreciated! Thank you, Matt!

No problem, it looks like you can mount your esc in the tray with servo tape or velcro...but you cant bolt anything into the battery tray.

Meh, had a pretty rough time at the track this weekend. I need to know what changes you would do during the practice lap to make the car better. My track changes greatly from heat to heat. After, my practice time, I picked my tires for the first heat. Well it was off, they didnt blow off the track and the line was narrow. So i had some fast laps and some slow laps, but overall was ok. The second round same, and I was hoping for more consistent traction because they blew it off. But the buggy was too loose and I put down some not so great laps. Again, I was not sure what to do for the mains. It is always way different in the mains, because the sun goes down and traction comes up. I did 2-3 practice laps, and i knew I had too much rear traction. I was having real issues with the 4x 180 degree turns. The rear would not come around as I wanted and thus pulled my worst lap times of the day. So again, when you do you practice laps, what changes would you make to adjust rear traction. Ride height? Tires? I am not sure i would have enough time for a tire change. I must say, racing on a constantly changing track is challenging. But I usually know after 1 practice lap, how this will go. Just need to make that quick adjustment. For me it is normally to much or too little traction in the rear.