4LikesTeam Associated B4.2 Thread
02-14-2013 | 10:17 PM
#1681
Gold barcodes are great when they keep the track moist, but its so hit n miss on practice days, sometimes its wet but seems lately they let the top get dry and dusty. I think going to wcrc ruined me since they have so much grip there lol
I am even tempted to mount some hole shots for the dry dusty days because I have messed with springs and shims, etc I'm convinced its my tire at this point (and driving lol) during the dusty days
I am even tempted to mount some hole shots for the dry dusty days because I have messed with springs and shims, etc I'm convinced its my tire at this point (and driving lol) during the dusty days
02-14-2013 | 10:17 PM
#1682
Have you worn them down to near-slicks? That's what everyone tells me is the hot setup there. We like the same tires, worn about 95% of what you like up in B'ham. Maybe they are too new and not enough traction treatments yet? Dammit I want to try them!
02-14-2013 | 10:21 PM
#1683
Was thinking of a tread like that, hole shots right? But with the release of the ion tires I was thinking of getting those first.
02-14-2013 | 10:24 PM
#1684
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Got 4 packs on um today, they are well scuffed....
I used sauce on the last two packs and it help a little ...
I do not believe worn down or baldie's would been much of a benefit as the track was rather dusty today ...
02-15-2013 | 05:18 AM
#1685
Im not sure which battery you are running but i seem to like a heavier pack on a looser track surface. You did go down a spring rate so thats a good thing. Maybe leave the same set-up and springs you run on the high grip track and try a full size pack like the reedy 5500 60c i believe it is, they weight about 306 grams. I was running one without the rear ballast weight just weight in the rear triangles and battery forward and it was really good with white rear spring and gree nfront spring and same oil and pistons. I would also try the A hubs if you dont already have them on and 2mm on the inner ball studs front and rear and maybe 3.5 toe block. Im not saying the heavy pack is the answer but if you have one laying around give it a shot. Just this last race day i tried what most of the team guys are running in practice and liked it since i came to the track with a slightly different set-up on my car and didnt end up running my current "heavy car set-up" but think im gonna go back to it for my local track.
02-15-2013 | 06:47 AM
#1686
That's personally why I try them every now n then, I probably have only 30-45mins of driving on mine. Their clay compound seems more firm than a gold barcode so the insert I'm guessing needs to be softer? I just know in their current state barcodes feel better so far. think its a track issue too.
Was thinking of a tread like that, hole shots right? But with the release of the ion tires I was thinking of getting those first.
Was thinking of a tread like that, hole shots right? But with the release of the ion tires I was thinking of getting those first.
02-15-2013 | 07:55 AM
#1688
According to the B4.2 instruction manual, you don't need to use any extra washers behind the front shock standoff (#1780). Is the front tower cut-out like the rear?
Considering purchasing the AVID new standoffs if knew which ones to get.
Considering purchasing the AVID new standoffs if knew which ones to get.
02-15-2013 | 08:03 AM
#1689
The newer shock towers (same part number as the old one so it is a running change) has an offset pad on the front tower. There are some comparison pics located a few pages back that shows the pad. So if your not using the new shock tower you will still need to use washers or dremel some of the tower.
02-15-2013 | 08:31 AM
#1692
I was going to say check the 1st page, but I did & didn't see it spelled out. This probably should be listed sepperate on the 1st page (wildcat?).
Factory Team 12mm "Big Bore" hard anodized aluminum threaded shocks with TiN "Gold" 3mm shock shafts
VTS slipper (variable torque, multi-plate slipper with 3 drive surfaces) assembly featuring a high-resolution spring
Factory Team blue aluminum bellcrank set
Factory Team 12mm blue aluminum front and rear clamping hexes with hex wheels
Updated shock towers optimized for the 12mm "Big Bore" shocks
02-15-2013 | 08:33 AM
#1693
Spring clearance is awesome since it moves the ballstud further back. Im currently using no spacers on the bottom of my shock mount and i have about 2.5-3mm of clearance between the spring and my jc turnbuckles. Bearing fitment is awesome, the inside bearing i had to lighlt and carefully tap in it was that tight and the outer bearing went in nicely but still snug enough to not have any excess play. I Have about 4 race days on them and i think they developed a little bit of extra slop. will have to double check that but seem to be holding up very nicely.
02-15-2013 | 08:37 AM
#1694
The newer shock towers (same part number as the old one so it is a running change) has an offset pad on the front tower. There are some comparison pics located a few pages back that shows the pad. So if your not using the new shock tower you will still need to use washers or dremel some of the tower.
Front Tower...
B4.2 on the left, B4.1 on the right.
Rear Tower...
B4.2 (The only change vs B4.1 rear tower, is the notch for the BB's)
02-15-2013 | 08:47 AM
#1695
I will leave these pics in my photobucket if 07forester wants to add these to the first page so this question doesn't come up all of the time...(Also, Wildcat if you want to add it to the B4.1 thread, feel free)
Front Tower...
B4.2 on the left, B4.1 on the right.
Rear Tower...
B4.2 (The only change vs B4.1 rear tower, is the notch for the BB's)
Front Tower...
B4.2 on the left, B4.1 on the right.
Rear Tower...
B4.2 (The only change vs B4.1 rear tower, is the notch for the BB's)
THERE IS NOT A DIFFERENT PART # FOR THE NEW TOWERS. IT IS A RUNNING CHANGE. THE ONLY WAY TO MAKE SURE YOU GET THE NEW TOWERS IS TO INSPECT THEM BEFORE BUYING.