Yokomo B-MAX2 MR/RS
#2311
I run Avid springs on mine without issue. I've had very good luck with them on all my cars. And at a much more affordable price than K**Sho's
#2312
Well the first time out with my yokomo bmax2 ver3 worlds/factory that I bought used I managed to stripped a few teeth off of the ball diff gear.
I pulled apart the gear box and all looked to be in order, all bearings were good, top shaft and idlers looked good. This just left me totally perplexed to the issue. Well I finally got around to breaking down the ball diff and found the culprit. One of the bearings inside the ball diff totally distroyed and I mean totally. I only had the upper and lower bearing races left. No balls, shields anything but a bunch of silver glitter all inside the diff.
In my 20 years of RC I have never seen a bearing in a diff this destroyed. I am just chalking it up of a one off fluke. I did get the car used from a trusted seller and the car was in amazing shape, just one of those things.
I will run the gear diff until I can get a new ball diff but will most like build it up with Avid Aura bearings and bfast diff kit.
Im also changing the ball cups out to J concepts ball cups Part# 2181.
The car is a amazing car and cant wait to get back on the track.
I pulled apart the gear box and all looked to be in order, all bearings were good, top shaft and idlers looked good. This just left me totally perplexed to the issue. Well I finally got around to breaking down the ball diff and found the culprit. One of the bearings inside the ball diff totally distroyed and I mean totally. I only had the upper and lower bearing races left. No balls, shields anything but a bunch of silver glitter all inside the diff.
In my 20 years of RC I have never seen a bearing in a diff this destroyed. I am just chalking it up of a one off fluke. I did get the car used from a trusted seller and the car was in amazing shape, just one of those things.
I will run the gear diff until I can get a new ball diff but will most like build it up with Avid Aura bearings and bfast diff kit.
Im also changing the ball cups out to J concepts ball cups Part# 2181.
The car is a amazing car and cant wait to get back on the track.
#2313
Only AE big bore buggy springs will fit not the regular ones
#2315
The ones im using are a great fit. Also I dont touch anything made by AE unless its cleaning up at the track and throwing stuff in the trash...lol
#2316
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Sounds like that ball diff either wasn't adjusted properly or the rings were worn. I don't understand the rush to gear diffs in 1/10. I ran the snot out of my B4 and B44 and never had an issue. I always sand my diff rings. Gets the flat spots out and adds a little texture that helps also. Going to be different running a gear diff. We'll see.
#2317
Sounds like that ball diff either wasn't adjusted properly or the rings were worn. I don't understand the rush to gear diffs in 1/10. I ran the snot out of my B4 and B44 and never had an issue. I always sand my diff rings. Gets the flat spots out and adds a little texture that helps also. Going to be different running a gear diff. We'll see.
#2319
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Well, plugged servo and speedo into Rx and powered it up, everything still works. Guess I need to get some shorty packs and get this thing to the track. Question on the servo horn. I mounted it perpendicular to the case, which I THINK is what's shown in pics in the manual. I'm up against the stops at full lock on both sides, no servo chatter, but it gets awfully close to the right bellcrank. One of the manual pics looks like it's mounted one spline offset towards left of car so I'm a little unsure.
WillS- I built my steering link using AE ballcups rather then the Yokomo. Same ones I've used for years on B4 and B44. Plenty free on the steering rack and servo saver studs, but not sure if those are a little smaller than the other ballstuds? The cups are a little longer, took about 1mm off the ends so I could get link to 42mm.
WillS- I built my steering link using AE ballcups rather then the Yokomo. Same ones I've used for years on B4 and B44. Plenty free on the steering rack and servo saver studs, but not sure if those are a little smaller than the other ballstuds? The cups are a little longer, took about 1mm off the ends so I could get link to 42mm.
Last edited by cjtamu; 05-14-2015 at 08:43 PM.
#2320
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
WillS- I built my steering link using AE ballcups rather then the Yokomo. Same ones I've used for years on B4 and B44. Plenty free on the steering rack and servo saver studs, but not sure if those are a little smaller than the other ballstuds? The cups are a little longer, took about 1mm off the ends so I could get link to 42mm.
#2321
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Did all that last night. Steering blocks bumping into the stops Caster blocks on both sides, so I have full travel. Sorry, should have mentioned I was referring to your post re: tight ballcups. Not sure if the AE ones I have will be tight on other ballstuds, but work great on steering link. I really like the design on the Yok ballcups, with the hole in top so you can tighten ballstuds back down. Hoping to run them but sounds like a lot of folks are switching them out.
#2322
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Question. Have a couple pair TLR rear hex wheels, don't even know where they came from. Put them on the Yokomo thinking they'd be tuning tires. But, I have about 2mm less stub axle to connect to than with the Yok wheels. Is offset different on the TLR rears? If so, what rear wheels work besides the Yokomo ones?
#2323
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Question. Have a couple pair TLR rear hex wheels, don't even know where they came from. Put them on the Yokomo thinking they'd be tuning tires. But, I have about 2mm less stub axle to connect to than with the Yok wheels. Is offset different on the TLR rears? If so, what rear wheels work besides the Yokomo ones?
#2324
Hey just want to check, is it possible to use the bmax2 V3 one piece chassis as a replacement for the v2 ?