RC10 Team Car, 20+ years later
#16
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
#17
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
My buddy STILL has it and won't sell it or trade it back to me.
Sean
#18
I agree with the others, rebuild the shocks but don't bother replacing them. The RC10 had unique shock lengths by today's standards and again, the parts are the same quality. As long as your shock bodies aren't worn out, keep on running them.
If you're running carpet, reduce droop and stiffen the suspension. It'll keep up just fine, especially if you're not running mod.
As for our negatively minded buddy, the ignore list is your friend. Add the name once, never hear from them again.
#19
Tech Elite
iTrader: (105)
I have all the latest and greatest but I am a collector too and I run ssome of my vintage stuff,you just wanna have fun..Rebuild your shocks with correct springs and redo that diff completly..You can buy every part for it new in plastic still!! Trust me..get some arms and the right tires for your track and kick his young butt!! Here is my rc10 runner with updated wheels
#20
All things being equal the rc10 is inferior to the modem cars on modern tracks. However an experienced driver with an older car will almost always be able to beat someone less experienced with any car if all they know how to do is copy someone else's setup sheet.
#21
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Fun project. If you want newer shocks, try to pick up a pair of Kyosho Velvets (normal size).
While the big bores are often the way to go, they provide a bigger advantage on rough surfaces. Since you're running on carpet, normal bore K-velvets would be great and should fit. You don't need the extra weight of big bores.
I agree with a previous poster who suggested running lipo. If you have one, or are willing to buy one, run a shorty pack so you can play with the placement (from front to back).
The 210 mm can be exceptionally dialed in for carpet. To mitigate that advantage you'll want to have options to adjust weight. A shorty pack is a great start without adding net weight to the car.
Keep us posted and let's see some progress pics.
As to that poster with the ego - ANYONE who has an ego about a hobby is missing the point. He's probably a socially akward teen-ager and just hasn't adjusted yet. Hopefully he'll learn.
While the big bores are often the way to go, they provide a bigger advantage on rough surfaces. Since you're running on carpet, normal bore K-velvets would be great and should fit. You don't need the extra weight of big bores.
I agree with a previous poster who suggested running lipo. If you have one, or are willing to buy one, run a shorty pack so you can play with the placement (from front to back).
The 210 mm can be exceptionally dialed in for carpet. To mitigate that advantage you'll want to have options to adjust weight. A shorty pack is a great start without adding net weight to the car.
Keep us posted and let's see some progress pics.
As to that poster with the ego - ANYONE who has an ego about a hobby is missing the point. He's probably a socially akward teen-ager and just hasn't adjusted yet. Hopefully he'll learn.
#22
Tech Regular
If it were me, I would go old school as much as possible with the car itself. Have fun with it. Rebuild shocks and make sure tranny and diff are in perfect running condition. I think I would even try to find some good old school brushed esc/motors and run NIMH 7cell batteries. The point to make to your son should be "fun" can be had no matter what you are driving. Besides, the driver makes the car fast, not the other way around. I am sure some pro could show up at most local club races and whoop up on the faster guys running anything competitive from it's time frame, even that RC10 graphite you have there. I have seen some of those cars go soooo fast back in the day.
#23
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
I have some 6000mAh lipos that I run in my Traxxas Summit but they seem a bit big for the 10. I used to make 8 minutes with 1500-1800mAh with a 27t stock motor so I think I can make that with 3000mAh and that 17t Sapphire. I have NiMh batts I can use too. The reason I mentioned the LiFe battery is because I don't have a brushed ESC with LVC. The LiFe battery is a bit more tolerant and with only 6.6v I figured it would be a bit more manageable until I get a feel for the car.
I tore the shocks down, they weren't pretty.
What fluid was left was pretty bad. I know it looks clear in the pic but it wasn't the same color as what I remember putting in there.
One of the front shocks has a lot of play in it. The piston is worn pretty badly and doesn't seal on the shock body. The rears are good I will load them with 30wt and limit them for droop. I don't think I can save the fronts unless I can find some pistons in one of my parts bins. I have options though.
Peeled the servo and Rx off the chassis to fit the battery and make some hold-downs.
The servo was in the way for any stick pack so I will move it up closer to the steering. Speaking of steering, it felt a bit too tight so I pulled it apart and sure enough one of the bearings was seized. I got em cleaned and oiled and everything moves nice again.
For the past six years this car was basically a basher. I always ran it like I stole it and put it away without doing any maintenance. Here is what I was running for a body.
I still have the original buggy body. It's a bit beat up but will do. Gonna run the original aluminum wing too. I'll get more pics tomorrow.
Thanks for all your help guys. My son and I are really having a lot of fun hyping this "new vs old" challenge.
Sean
I tore the shocks down, they weren't pretty.
What fluid was left was pretty bad. I know it looks clear in the pic but it wasn't the same color as what I remember putting in there.
One of the front shocks has a lot of play in it. The piston is worn pretty badly and doesn't seal on the shock body. The rears are good I will load them with 30wt and limit them for droop. I don't think I can save the fronts unless I can find some pistons in one of my parts bins. I have options though.
Peeled the servo and Rx off the chassis to fit the battery and make some hold-downs.
The servo was in the way for any stick pack so I will move it up closer to the steering. Speaking of steering, it felt a bit too tight so I pulled it apart and sure enough one of the bearings was seized. I got em cleaned and oiled and everything moves nice again.
For the past six years this car was basically a basher. I always ran it like I stole it and put it away without doing any maintenance. Here is what I was running for a body.
I still have the original buggy body. It's a bit beat up but will do. Gonna run the original aluminum wing too. I'll get more pics tomorrow.
Thanks for all your help guys. My son and I are really having a lot of fun hyping this "new vs old" challenge.
Sean
Last edited by Radi0Flyer; 02-08-2016 at 11:46 AM. Reason: fixed links to pics
#24
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
On second thought, It works but I don't think it can handle a 17t motor. Better dig a bit more, I'm sure I can find something better and closer to the right vintage.
Also, I know some mentioned to go with a 2.4Ghz radio, and I likely will eventually. I have some old Futaba Magnum PBs that I used to run in this car but I just don't trust them anymore. My best radio from back then was my Futaba 3PB FM radio that I used to run in my 1/12th car.
That Novak Mercury Rx in the first pic works like a charm with the 3PB so I'm gonna use it. Nobody else runs an FM radio at the track so I'm not too worried about frequency conflicts, but I do have spare crystals in case.
The servo is a Hitec HS-300. Not sure if it's as old as the car but it looks the part. Just checked the specs, 50 oz-in and 0.15 sec/60° @ 6.0v, plenty fast for my age.
Sean
#25
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
be sure to get a Lipo Alarm or cutoff device.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8S-2in1-RC...item4ab9e2dbbf
Check this site. http://www.rc10talk.com/ and surely all your questions will be answered.
cheers!!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8S-2in1-RC...item4ab9e2dbbf
Check this site. http://www.rc10talk.com/ and surely all your questions will be answered.
cheers!!!
#26
Ahhhh yes. Katooms and Coors Light. Now here's a man with good taste!
#27
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
be sure to get a Lipo Alarm or cutoff device.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8S-2in1-RC...item4ab9e2dbbf
Check this site. http://www.rc10talk.com/ and surely all your questions will be answered.
cheers!!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8S-2in1-RC...item4ab9e2dbbf
Check this site. http://www.rc10talk.com/ and surely all your questions will be answered.
cheers!!!
Also, for those that are telling me to go to RC10Talk, I'm already there and I've checked out the relevant threads. The "Resurecting/Modernizing Your Vintage R/C's" thread mostly deals with electronics and doesn't go into setting up the car for high traction carpet. There is nothing there that you guys here haven't already suggested. Lots of "Old is New" threads but doesn't seem like anybody is actually running those buggies. If I can't find some setup advice I will just do trial and error until I find a good working combo.
Those are just the big ones...
That was a few years ago, they all moved up one size since then, all orange.
Oh and the wife races too; here she is on my 520SX, a bike most GUYS don't want to ride at the track. The number 27 bike in the other picture is her XC/Hare scramble bike.
Sean
#28
Loving that you are Team Orange through and through! All the Novak stuff, your car stand, the KTM's, and the good ol' General Lee.
#29
Enough with the motorcycle pictures.
I wanna' see someone get rad on that snowmobile in the background.
So cool that you have all your kids riding.
I wanna' see someone get rad on that snowmobile in the background.
So cool that you have all your kids riding.
#30
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
When Tamiya released their M06 RX7 I had to get one...
Unfortunately it's mostly a shelf queen. I run it in school gyms once in a while though.
I still have the real one too.
Sean