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Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72
(Post 12365099)
Had some electronic gremlins hurt me in the main and Cityblocks 2 didn't do too great but I still did pretty good overall.
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Posted a while back that my 4600 Pro4 motor felt like a lazy terd in my truck. After inspecting the motor I noticed that "my SHAFT had a bit of extra wobble :eek:". Bought replacement bearings, took the motor apart, and the front bearing was partially seized up and the motor shaft was spinning faster than the bearing. Motor all good now and is back in my "backup" FT SC10 4x4. My buddy and I both bought HW 4700 motors for our Teknos. I couldn't race last weekend due to a kidney stone but he said that HW motor is a flipping beast! Marshalls were noticing his truck (stock, not lightened in any way) pulling the front end up mid straight with a 16 tooth pinion and running quite cooler than his Pro4 did. Can't wait to run mine this Sunday. Trying the rcgod setup with 2 changes, 1.3 x 8 pistons front and rear, and shocks set up emulsion. Good God this truck is a dream to work on compared to my AE :lol:.
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King DORK
You will love the HW Motor, they are monsters! I run the 4000kv outdoor`s on big tracks geared with a 17 pinion, and fully boosted with the V3 speed control. Paul |
Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 12365780)
Nose diving was driving me absolutely crazy. I'll need to do the battery mod or other setup changes plus removing all the drag brake, but the 25-50% throttle required to keep the truck flat is a bit difficult coming from other vehicles/setups which jump well. More often than not I was landing on the front skid. I switched from the blockade to the subculture before the main and those were even worse. Neither tire was hooking up well at all.
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How many orings on the shock shaft are the guys who are having nose diving problems running? I still have yet to see one do this, mine jumps fine although it may be a jump specific thing.
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Originally Posted by SMR 510RR
(Post 12366107)
How many orings on the shock shaft are the guys who are having nose diving problems running? I still have yet to see one do this, mine jumps fine although it may be a jump specific thing.
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I've had the nose diving problem also. some guys on here said going up on spring in the rear helps, so I've got oranges on it now, and some new pistons. I've got the 8 X 1.4coming in the mail and right now I have some 10 hole 5 X 1.1 + 5 X 1.4 that I'm going to try tomorrow. I want to have some pack but not so much that it gets jittery everywhere. tracks out here are rough, jump faces are not nice, and with all the rain there's lots of drainage ditches that you have to cross while you're racing.
We'll see how the heavier springs and new pistons work tomorrow. |
Originally Posted by Slotmachine
(Post 12366053)
King DORK
You will love the HW Motor, they are monsters! I run the 4000kv outdoor`s on big tracks geared with a 17 pinion, and fully boosted with the V3 speed control. Paul |
My take is.. It's a little difficult to compare a Honda to a BMW.. The same goes for anything Tekin and hobbywing.. IMHO let the flame war begin!!! Whoop Whoop... But no seriously, my 6 year old son will be getting a HW before he moves up in the world to Tekin electronics.. Just sayin :)
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Originally Posted by morgoth
(Post 12366091)
Same problem here and I don't run drag brake. Drove it today for the first time and there a table top jump. I was hard to to jump it :(
20% drag brake Zero nosedive issue |
Originally Posted by ArmySSG
(Post 12366424)
My take is.. It's a little difficult to compare a Honda to a BMW.. The same goes for anything Tekin and hobbywing.. IMHO let the flame war begin!!! Whoop Whoop... But no seriously, my 6 year old son will be getting a HW before he moves up in the world to Tekin electronics.. Just sayin :)
And yes, I've run both brands unlike some of "fans" who have only one run or the other. |
Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 12365780)
Nose diving was driving me absolutely crazy. I'll need to do the battery mod or other setup changes plus removing all the drag brake, but the 25-50% throttle required to keep the truck flat is a bit difficult coming from other vehicles/setups which jump well. More often than not I was landing on the front skid. I switched from the blockade to the subculture before the main and those were even worse. Neither tire was hooking up well at all.
I heard the guys talking about the rear bumper bottoming out I may try that. I run zero orings (max travel) and rarely ever tune droop. Tried a ton of piston and spring combos as well no joy. You definitely have to drive it different than the buggy version. Currently running the door setup with lighter front diff oil(5). |
Originally Posted by Bcholka
(Post 12366425)
SRAMOS setup
20% drag brake Zero nosedive issue |
The nose dive issue in general is due to a soft rear end causing the back end to slap and kick over, not a too heavy front end. Now whether its oil or springs or ride height is an individual track issue.
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Ew drag brake. Never!
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