GrimmReaper

Raced lastnight with the SCT410, and a buddy of mine just finished his too. We did a swap at the end of the A-main... That 540 Pro 4 4600 is holy crap fast!! I can't believe how much bottom end he has compaired to my 550 2 pole Viper.

On a positive note... Got rid of the Deans plugs and soldered 5mm posts. No unsoldering issues to speak of.

nanoverse

What servo horn fits best. A lot of them require shims to be used. Which is high and long enough? For example the Losi 22 horn isn't high and long enough.

rjohn929

iTrader: (10)

Exactly. I only switched to the EC5 plugs because the Deans would come unplugged on bad crashes and I got tired of zip tying them. After switching however I have noticed a real drop in temperature on the battery wires and the plugs stay noticabley cooler then the Deans.

Bcholka

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Bcholka

Wrong. The figures below are from another thread in RC Tech--the 4mm bullets are actually quite a bit higher in resistance than Deans.

Deans is .000090 ohms
4 mm bullet is .000250

BashemSmashem

iTrader: (42)

I went to EC5's after the Deans plugs on my brushless boat melted off the postive wire on the Deans plug for the 2nd time .....Been using them ever since , best designed plug in RC IMO ....BTW also have had Deans unplug themselves during a race .

Mizchief

It's all about power. Power (watts) = current (amps) X Voltage (v) Power is what makes the wheels turn so if you want a lot of it you either need to increase voltage or current. Current is also what generates heat and the more resistance (ohms) there is in the wires, connectors, etc. the more heat there will be. Also, as temps go up the amount of resistance also goes up so heat can go up exponentially.

This is why we need 6500 mah 90c batteries for our 2 cell battery powered trucks but still get less runtime that our 4s powered eBuggies using 4500 mah batteries.

The problem seems that ROAR intended 4x4 SCT to be more like the light weight 2wd truck (kind of like the SC10 4x4 & slash) but the racers seem to prefer 1/8 buggy scale trucks. So we're limited to running 2s where we should really have 3s or 4s setups.

ArmySSG

iTrader: (1)

Anybody ever have issues where the ESC is cool, motor is warm and pinion is burning hot only after a couple of passes? 200-300ft total time running?

Mizchief

Are you using a metal spur?

I know if ESC is cool but motor is hot it usually means your under-geared (I think) as the motor is running really high RPM's. Maybe this is happening but the heat is getting stored in the pinion? Maybe the motor bearing next to the pinion is going bad?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

For a Tekin setup, sorry guys I am running a Speed Passion ESC. There are some good posts about settings though to start with, for me its limiting a lot of the current limiter that I believe its called on the Tekin's. Also, run a high cutoff per cell. Pretty much been running 3.4V per cell now, know guys running 3.5V too.

Have you done the paper method to set the mesh? I pretty much look for how much rock I get back and forth between the pinion and spur. If you do the paper method, since its mod 1 you will probably want a thick paper or several sheets, etc.

I have also noticed temps higher in the pinion when using a metal spur.

ArmySSG

iTrader: (1)

@Mizchief Hopefully it's not a bearing issue is the motor is brand spanking new lol.. And I'm using the composite stock spur...

@Cain.. That sucks on the setup sheet.. BUT I think your spot on in regards to my mesh issue.. I'll keep playing with it until I get it right and youtube on proper mesh setting techniques.. I thought I knew how to do it but I guess I had no idea lol..

sramos

iTrader: (2)

I run the 4300, my setup as follows on high bite. 60% current limit, 10% neutral width, 75% brake strength, 0 timing, 0 drag, 0 push, 0 reverse speed, BL/FW. Current limit is the big thing with batteries being puffed. Lately on outdoor loose conditions I'm running my current limit at 35%, makes it very controllable and less wheel spin. Braking hard is something to take into consideration as it can heat your motor up very quick, also my brake strength is at 75% on esc and down to 60% or less in my brake EPA on my TX, I run the trinity sting extreme 7200mah 90c battery with not one sign of puffing in months, I also run the thunder power 6000mah 65c bullet battery with no signs of puffing either, and I've ran those for almost a year now.......don't be afraid to drop the current limit down far, it only controls the initial punch (low end), I've notice going lower ie. 35% has made the power band very smooth, I'm thinking about going to 10% on loose conditions and see how smooth it gets, I was very worried about going to 35% but let me tell you it was awesome and allowed all the power to get to the ground with out trying to throw rooster tails lol......hope this helps

sramos

iTrader: (2)

Those batteries I mentioned, you won't be close to cutoff in a 5min qualifier. The 7200 I'm still not to cutoff after a 10 min main with a few practice laps. Also a good idea to run a new battery for a few min then back on the charge and balance a few times to break it in. I won't let mine get lower then 3.8 a cell for the first 5+ runs

dirtbikekid33

I noticed when I went down low on current limit if my truck jumped nose down I couldn't bring it back up as well as it being higher up so if you never have that problem than that's the way to go.

sramos

iTrader: (2)

I haven't had the nose dive anymore since the rear red springs, battery mod, and fioroni pistons. Even when I did have the nose dive prior, with the higher current limit it wouldn't bring it up, it just kept it from going farther into a lawn dart