Before I get too much further (rear end done) - I have a question on the sound of the gearboxes. I used the shims as called for in the addendum etc. the instructions say they should run freely and should be smooth with no binding. They feel mechanical - I can feel the gears meshing, but I wouldn't call it rough. There is some gear sound too, but not what I'd call grinding. Having never built one, any guidance on how much noise and what kind of feel is appropriate?
If I need to pull it all apart, I'd rather know now!

Edit : sounds like a video I'm not allowed to post that I found on YouTube so I guess I'm ok.

Check this video out, sounds like you are on the right track:

+ YouTube Video

Thanks guys, just watched UN4's video. I'll try putting the shocks together like he did with some green slime.

When I first built the truck I started with 7-10-5. I've had 3 track days on the truck, so I think it's time for a diff rebuild anyways. I'm gonna try the 10-10-5 setup. Do you think the diff whip is coming from the front then? The only time I get really bad whip is on switchback sections of the track.

I rebuilt it the second time really really carefully to make sure there was no binding or deformation. I think the main problem was tightening the cap and then putting the shaft through the o-rings. I'm gonna try assembling the o-rings on the shock shaft first before tightening the cap.

I didn't run the boots after the first rebuild. Wanted to run it a track day without them so I could see if they were still leaking. Sure enough, they were. I'm running on an indoor clay track, with very little dust. The truck still looks brand new after 3 track days. Anyone else running indoors and not using the boots?

I'm running his setup with the stock pistons for now until I can get my hands on some Fioroni's. The setup works pretty well on a high bite, indoor clay track, but it's a bit stiff through the bumpy sections. The Fioroni pistons are the only thing that's keeping me from having his exact setup.

hard to say with out seeing it. just my opinion with out seeing it i would suggest taking out some droop first and or stiffening the sway bars. this is just my opinion/suggestion and i'm sure someone else will have a different one. take video of it doing it if can, so much easier to see whats going on

May be worth new o rings.
The point to inserting the shaft with the cap loose is to avoid tearing the o ring. Doing it again with the cap loose may not help if the o ring is already damaged.

Yeah, I'll see if I can get a video of it. I'm running 100mm in the front and 116mm in the rear. Also running the 2.4 sway in the front and 2.6 in the back.

I bought that pack of 16 o-rings for the first rebuild. I still have plenty new ones left.

Ha Ha! Yep, that's how you do it... get the parts that are needed to keep it going fast and I guess the ones that will break too.

It's fine on higher cell counts (3s and above), but i kinda sucks on 2s in a heavy truck. It has issues even with an external bec installed. I'm replacing my mmp with a hobbywing sct-pro and putting the old mmp in my 4s powered e-buggy. I've heard no issues with using it on 4s-6s setups. I don't recall a single problem when i used it with the 1415 2400Kv motor on a 3 cell pack.

Did you grease the gears? That is what usually cuts down the noise. I like to use Lucas Red & Tacky grease (you can find it in any auto parts store) because it doesnt sling off the gears. As long as you can spin in freely and it isnt fighting you you should be good to go.

Try putting both shims on the gear side. If you can do this with no binding, go that way. If it binds at all, go back to stock. This really quieted my kits down.

Here is the ultimate tip for any PITA camber link assembly. Take the link and chuck it up in a cordless drill. Be sure of the orientation of the threads, and spin the drill either forward for right-hand threads, or backward for left-hand threads. Put a little lube on the link, hold the plastic end with a hex wrench shaft or something similar. Use the drill to drive the link. Go slowly! Screw the link all the way in carefully, now work it back and forth a few times. Remove the plastic end, flip the link and the drill direction, and repeat for the other plastic end. Done in record time!

For those of you running the aluminum caps on your shocks how are you building them and are you using the tekno bladder or foam compensators?

You must build them with bladders. The cap has a vent hole in it, so emulsion is out of the question. Use the Tekno bladders, they work great. No compensators, they will give way too much rebound, and the bladders do not need the support.

Where I have to finish off for the night... :/

Damn floating shard of growth plate doesn't like the weather or excessive wrenching haha!

Welcome to the anti-DNF side