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Originally Posted by jetcam2
(Post 12272931)
I am about to install the Tekno clamping wheel hexes TKR1654X the kit includes 8 shims so do I install all of the shims (2 per hex) or shim as needed?
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Looking for some setup help. Last couple weeks I have been struggling with a few things, listed in order of which I believe is slowing me down the most:
1. Bottoming out and nose sticking in ground on some jumps 2. Rear grip on power 3. Lack of steering in tight turns, mostly off power Here is my setup: Justin SCT410 setup Below is a video where you can see how the truck is behaving, and I talk about the issues as well. Any input? I was thinking of changing rear diff fluid back to 3k, adding back a couple mm of droop, maybe increase my front kickup/caster back to bottom hole, also do battery mod to move battery back. Open to other suggestions, been trying to get the truck really hooked up for the past few weeks..
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Will the cnc eb48 shock towers will fit on the sct410 ?
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Originally Posted by justinco
(Post 12273969)
Looking for some setup help. Last couple weeks I have been struggling with a few things, listed in order of which I believe is slowing me down the most:
1. Bottoming out and nose sticking in ground on some jumps 2. Rear grip on power 3. Lack of steering in tight turns, mostly off power Here is my setup: Justin SCT410 setup Below is a video where you can see how the truck is behaving, and I talk about the issues as well. Any input? I was thinking of changing rear diff fluid back to 3k, adding back a couple mm of droop, maybe increase my front kickup/caster back to bottom hole, also do battery mod to move battery back. Open to other suggestions, been trying to get the truck really hooked up for the past few weeks.
-Shorten your wheelbase all the way, that should help with off power steering into a turn and on power out of a turn. -Move your Ackermann to the rear hole. Helps with turn in, increases low speed steering on and off power (less scrub) and will decrease your high speed steering which can make it feel like you have more rear grip. -Try raising your rear roll center by running #3 on the rear inner camber link location. The increased camber gain during compression will help your car center and square up on acceleration. -Move your anti-squat to the middle location. Your track might be low enough traction that the rear end isn't using the suspension to create enough mechanical grip when you get on the throttle. |
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Originally Posted by evolution03
(Post 12274028)
Will the cnc eb48 shock towers will fit on the sct410 ?
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Latest upgrade to the tekno. well its what the competition sees J/K :cool:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psf372e6d3.jpg |
Updated first post to include Losi, Hot Bodies, and Kyosho spring information.
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
(Post 12274144)
Updated first post to include Losi, Hot Bodies, and Kyosho spring information.
If I were on something very blown out, or on something really loose, I'd probably want to go back to softer springs, but for high traction and for indoors, I like the stiffer springs. Stock 10x1.2 pistons all around, running 450 in front and 425 in rear for oil. |
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
(Post 12274093)
Before changing fluids, try some of these easy changes first.
-Shorten your wheelbase all the way, that should help with off power steering into a turn and on power out of a turn. -Move your Ackermann to the rear hole. Helps with turn in, increases low speed steering on and off power (less scrub) and will decrease your high speed steering which can make it feel like you have more rear grip. -Try raising your rear roll center by running #3 on the rear inner camber link location. The increased camber gain during compression will help your car center and square up on acceleration. -Move your anti-squat to the middle location. Your track might be low enough traction that the rear end isn't using the suspension to create enough mechanical grip when you get on the throttle. |
I just got a set of mud guards for the rear arms today, after putting them on they rub my wheels. has anyone else had trouble with them?
I'm just going to trim them down with my dremel, but thought I'd see if anyone else was in the same boat |
Yup same boat. Dremel time.
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What weight oil is a good starting point with 1.3-8 hole pistons front and rear.
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Originally Posted by tripleh
(Post 12275293)
What weight oil is a good starting point with 1.3-8 hole pistons front and rear.
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Originally Posted by tripleh
(Post 12275293)
What weight oil is a good starting point with 1.3-8 hole pistons front and rear.
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Originally Posted by MonsterMaxx
(Post 12273643)
sramos, I was wondering if you could answer some questions on your setup. I built my truck to the Wolter 5-30 setup sheet. The rear end was very very loose and it jumps nose down off a WOT run (I think this is a spring issue.)
I'm about to go into the truck and make changes (Feroni pistons for one) but I'm looking at your setup sheet as an answer to the looseness. Full anti-squat Using the inner hingepin hole changing the inner upper link and lowering the shock. Would you mind giving your reasoning behind these differences and do you think they will solve the looseness problem? I want to understand why I'm doing what since making so many changes are sort of contrary to the one-at-a-time rule. Thanks in advance. full anti squat, for me i kept it in because i come out of turn hard and seems to keep me planted. i have tried middle hole but felt looser to me. this is just personal preference, i know and heard some people say taking the anti squat out has taken the looseness away but for me its the opposite. i feel i can drive it harder with it full inner hinge pin, i was doing some testing with the shocks and oils a couple months ago and trying to get a lil more roll. a good friend who is the track director/owner of the r/c factory who has also been building the tracks for the midwest electric championships for the past, O i dont know how many years, and been racing for 20+ years noticed my hinge pin placement and suggested i move it to the inside to change the pivot point and i will get more roll. so i did and never looked back, i noticed it would rotate a bit more cornering. inner upper link, i was originally running it at the lowest link so it will react faster but noticed it would break loose easily, i moved it back up to the stock position so if it broke loose it was in a very controllable way. i have liked it very much lowering the shock on tower, i was playing with some settings, first went all the way down on tower but it made it to twitchy, i was trying to get a lil more responsiveness and went back to only one hole in from stock on tower and liked it. do i think these will solve the looseness.....idk because i'm not sure what your current set-up is as of now, so hard to say. i can tell you my truck feels planted the biggest things i have done that i feel has made my car feel hooked up is the fioroni pistons, battery mod, red rear spring, and 10/10/5 diffs.................hope this helps. i'm not the best explainer nor as knowledgable with some of the tuning explanations as some of our fellow racers on here. and i tend to ramble.......hahahahahaha |
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