I did a bit of test and tune Saturday and this truck is getting better and better.

I used Matt Wolter's set up, and the truck felt pretty good. It still is a bit mushy in the rear, but it handled the whoop section very well, and jumped with the nose close to flat.

I can't seem to get the truck to 25mm ride height in the rear without limiting the droop with this setup. Is anyone else having this issue?

If you put the droop screws in from the bottom of the arm it will limit droop? Thats all I can think of.
Paul

It will take a couple runs until the springs settle in. In some instances I used the plastic shock preload collars and ground them down a little so I could move them closer to the top of the shock body. I probably took about 2mm off the top of the collars with a dremel.

Totally perfect comparison!!!!

wish I knew about the new +1.5 hingepin rear holder before I bought the previous set lol, could have swapped the rear from my EB48 to the SCT410 ...

Anyway, curious if anyone has heard of the +1.5 hingepin holder being used on the SCT410?

Maybe should have added bomb proof? :D

Only thing I could see needing attention would be the cvd pins that ride in the center diffs out drives, those take some abuse no matter what electronics are in it. I don't think drivers will touch anything else for years.

You don't *need* any of those things. I ran mine box stock for months and just recently got new springs and put on my aluminum hexes (I had alum. hexes for months they just sat in my box).

yeah, but I would like to cure the nose diving before it even starts. People seem to be really happy with the 1.3x8 pistons.. or is it 1.2x8, lol. Someone said the durango springs worked well and they are like $4, so might as well get them for tuning. Is the plastic rack holding up well? Also, will a savox 1258 work ok? Its like 168 oz of torque. The track i run on is low to medium bite at best.

I ran that setup as well. Its awesome. Changes I made to get the ride height down to 21 was gray HB rears, white HB fronts. I have a lot more front droop than the rear compared to the sheet. To cure the mushy feeling I had as well, I am going to go up in center diff again. 7 just is too less I think, might go to 12.
Also just a thought but could the heavy as $hit front dog bone cause 7k to diff out? There has to be a a lot of inertia that front outdrive of the center diff has to overcome. I don't have a light front shaft to try out though. Just fear replacing pins on it is going to destroy the aluminum.

You don't need pistons or springs to cure the nose diving, although they won't hurt for tuning obviously. I had very minor nose diving issues on the stock setup. Nose diving was eliminated (for me) by going with thicker shock oils.

I am using Tekno springs now, one step stiffer on both ends (pink front, green rear) with 40wt and 35wt F/R (stock pistons). Truck jumps perfectly fine, check my videos in my sig and you can see. One of the older race videos you can see where I had bad nose diving, but that was because my rear shocks were half empty hah.

And I finally broke something on my truck :) front left shock shaft:) Thanks to Josh Close he was there with spares :).

Yay my tekno arrived today! Now just waiting for the electronics..(USPS u suk at shipping to Canada)

Personally, my answer to the nose diving question is, "it depends". And I say that as for everyone who says they had no issues, there are those like myself who did. And for those who cured it going with heavier oil, sometimes significantly, there are those like myself who cured it with a piston change. Same deal with the springs doing the cure.

The nice thing though is that if you find you have the issue, the changes are pretty easy to do. If you find its a solution you want via pistons, you can easily seal off 2 of the holes in the stockers and go.

As for springs, me personally I am using hot bodies springs which work well and have the added benefit of being short so you can get better ride height settings.

As for servo selection, Me personally I like to be more closer to the 200oz range if possible.

As for plastic rack comment, are you referring to the steering link? If so, that part is pretty beefy. I found no need to change it. I did change the rear hingepin holders for some of the alloy ones for piece of mind and a bit more weight on the rear.

I have been using a Savox 1258 with no issues the last few races. I was previously using an AE DS1015 (200+ oz of torque). I prefer the 1258 because of the speed over the added torque of the DS1015. The faster 1258 makes a very noticeable difference in how the truck behaves/steers compared to the DS1015. I mostly drive a medium/high bite indoor track.

Like Cain, I also just got the rear CNC hinge pin holders as I broke one of the stock ones recently.

The Savox 1258 works great in the SCT410, I've been running it in the Losi and now the SCT410. Depending on your ESC you might need a Cap or Glitch Buster, if it doesn't supply enough BEC power. The Savox does draw more power then most, but it's a dam good servo for the price.

As for nose diving... how do you cure what your not sure if it will have it.

Mine didn't have any nose dive issues. But when I did finish building it, the stock springs felt too plush for rough outdoor track, so I went with some Kyo Orange & Yellow springs to start out with, (4.0 Front & 2.9 Rear)

For the most part on spring weights, you want to look at the following:
Front: 3.7 - 4.1
Rears: 2.5 - 3.1

The popular range seems to be 3.8-4.1 Fronts and 2.8-3.0 Rears, but this will also depend on your driving style and track condtions or layout.

The only thing I would recommend picking up are the Alum Hexes and a couple Axle Stubs. Some batches had over hardened stubs and there have been hit & miss failures. I believe that it was mainly the eariler batches or first lots and pretty sure the new batches have been taken care of.