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Originally Posted by cpt_RedBeard
(Post 12218457)
First I should be clear now that there is a new version of the CSI Piston out there. I am using V1 pistons.
At first I thought the same thing, but i'd say 25-40 is more the range for the CSI blue pistons. I've ran CSI pistons in the SCT410 since day one and have gone through what feels like over a gallon of shock fluid. The suggestions on the CSI paper are way off when using their pistons in the Tekno shocks. I just scanned through all of my setup sheets, I started with 40wt f/35wt r, dropped to 35/30, then down to 30/25 for about the last 4 races. I will say this. In E Scale I run 40/35 with the same pistons and springs and the car was bottoming out pretty hard. I think there is a huge difference between the shock caps. I'm testing shock caps, bladders, and vented now to try to get the shock feel im after. Just for another CSI reference, most of the locals using CSI blue in their EB48's are running 37.5f /32.5r |
Originally Posted by Bcholka
(Post 12218368)
I'm trying to understand how you're finding success with these really low oil weights. For this oil range CSI says you should be running their Black pistons. For the Blue pistons they say you should be in the 40-50wt range. I'd think you'd be blowing through the stroke with the Blue pistons and this oil weight.
I'd really like to find a good setup with the CSI's so looking for CSI users to chime in. I run the blue in my AE buggy as well and just moved to 60 weight all around. Possibly too high for the blue, but it seemed to work well. |
Originally Posted by cpt_RedBeard
(Post 12218457)
First I should be clear now that there is a new version of the CSI Piston out there. I am using V1 pistons.
At first I thought the same thing, but i'd say 25-40 is more the range for the CSI blue pistons. I've ran CSI pistons in the SCT410 since day one and have gone through what feels like over a gallon of shock fluid. The suggestions on the CSI paper are way off when using their pistons in the Tekno shocks. I just scanned through all of my setup sheets, I started with 40wt f/35wt r, dropped to 35/30, then down to 30/25 for about the last 4 races. I will say this. In E Scale I run 40/35 with the same pistons and springs and the car was bottoming out pretty hard. I think there is a huge difference between the shock caps. I'm testing shock caps, bladders, and vented now to try to get the shock feel im after. Just for another CSI reference, most of the locals using CSI blue in their EB48's are running 37.5f /32.5r Also-what setup are you running with shock--Std Bladder? Vented? Emulsion? Thanks! ;) |
My new kit arrived today..Happy Birthday to me from the wife :)
With that said, there is no addendum in the kit. Was there a running change made and the shims are no longer included? I am CERTAIN this is a new kit as they have been sold out everywhere for weeks on end and the last kit I bought from same place had the addendum. Just got confirmation from Tekno that the kits have indeed been updated!! No more addendum's! What an awesome company! |
After trying some of the suggested ideas for rear traction I'm still having problems with the rear stepping out. I'm running the kit set-up with the following changes: center and rear braces removed, lowest anti-squat, battery at the rear of tray, and rear droop at 118mm, and hubs all the way forward. I've got springs and sway bars coming to tune with. I was reading about going up to 5k in the rear diff to improve traction. This seems like going in the opposite direction but going from 3k to 5k seemed to lock the rear of my Mugen in. I'm using the same tires as the top guys. Besides going up in rear diff fluid I was also going to lower the camber link on the tower(#3). Any other suggestions? Thanks
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Antisquat is a funny thing and always a mystery to me. On my xb4, more antisquat settled the car in. I think it has to do a lot with weight transfer. I would try kit antisquat and soft rear tires (1 level softer than the fronts I meant). I think it glides over the bumps better with more antisquat. That and laying the front shocks down would be my first choice. Also reduce rear droop. More rear droop is more front weight transfer.
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Originally Posted by jetcam2
(Post 12219173)
What springs are you running with your current Csi setup
Originally Posted by longbeard
(Post 12219242)
I run blue pistons and started at 45/40. I 've just recently went up in weight to 47.5/45. Reading their instructions it seems that you always want to go up in weight with a piston, and not down. I went up to help settle the rear end on a particularly truck upsetting jump. To me the truck seems better now. However, it's a smooth indoor clay track.
I run the blue in my AE buggy as well and just moved to 60 weight all around. Possibly too high for the blue, but it seemed to work well.
Originally Posted by Bcholka
(Post 12219246)
Very helpful-Thanks for your response.
Also-what setup are you running with shock--Std Bladder? Vented? Emulsion? Thanks! ;) Again, I built my buggy shocks and truck shocks exactly them same and got very different results, and i'm thinking its due to the difference in caps. I am looking into maybe some serpent webbed bladders, or playing with using some rebound in a stock bladder but vented state. |
Hey guys, I just ordered a SCT410 over the weekend from tekno. The website says it's backordered, any idea how long the wait usually is before they are shipping? It will be my first time building a kit so expect many noobish questions from me once my kit arrives. Thanks
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Originally Posted by Mototech
(Post 12219355)
After trying some of the suggested ideas for rear traction I'm still having problems with the rear stepping out. I'm running the kit set-up with the following changes: center and rear braces removed, lowest anti-squat, battery at the rear of tray, and rear droop at 118mm, and hubs all the way forward. I've got springs and sway bars coming to tune with. I was reading about going up to 5k in the rear diff to improve traction. This seems like going in the opposite direction but going from 3k to 5k seemed to lock the rear of my Mugen in. I'm using the same tires as the top guys. Besides going up in rear diff fluid I was also going to lower the camber link on the tower(#3). Any other suggestions? Thanks
When are you seeing the issue? Entry, mid, or exit? How does the truck jump and land? Flat? |
Originally Posted by Danalle
(Post 12219429)
Hey guys, I just ordered a SCT410 over the weekend from tekno. The website says it's backordered, any idea how long the wait usually is before they are shipping? It will be my first time building a kit so expect many noobish questions from me once my kit arrives. Thanks
The build itself is pretty easy, instructions are very good. If you are at all technical it will be no problem, if not, I have a bunch of build videos that help you with the "hard" parts :) Tekno SCT410 Build Playlist
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Originally Posted by Mototech
(Post 12219355)
After trying some of the suggested ideas for rear traction I'm still having problems with the rear stepping out. I'm running the kit set-up with the following changes: center and rear braces removed, lowest anti-squat, battery at the rear of tray, and rear droop at 118mm, and hubs all the way forward. I've got springs and sway bars coming to tune with. I was reading about going up to 5k in the rear diff to improve traction. This seems like going in the opposite direction but going from 3k to 5k seemed to lock the rear of my Mugen in. I'm using the same tires as the top guys. Besides going up in rear diff fluid I was also going to lower the camber link on the tower(#3). Any other suggestions? Thanks
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Originally Posted by Cptn Cartwheel
(Post 12217255)
It got its first race at KingHeadz today. Qual 2nd right behind Cush. Main was a sloberknocker. Lap traffic refusing to give up a corner. 5 wide through the bend on the back straight....you can guess what happened there. Bobbo hit me, accidentally, so hard my body flipped inside out. No damage at all. This trucks a beast. 6 6 4 40 32 was money today. Still working on it but I think it's got 14 laps in it.
I know they're 10 hole, but what size holes are on the kit pistons? |
Originally Posted by justinco
(Post 12219478)
Check the front page, lots of good info for the build, setup, option parts, etc.
The build itself is pretty easy, instructions are very good. If you are at all technical it will be no problem, if not, I have a bunch of build videos that help you with the "hard" parts :) I will be sure to watch those videos before the build too :cool: |
Originally Posted by teknorc
(Post 12219556)
Try sweeping the front arms forward (inserts on the inside).
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Originally Posted by Mototech
(Post 12220202)
Would you try this over thicker rear diff fluid? What else will this effect? Thanks
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