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Old 03-10-2013, 04:09 PM
  #6631  
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For the loose condition try removing the center and rear braces and move the rear hubs forward.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:10 PM
  #6632  
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
UP
I set my shocks using Fred's method and finally got a chance to go to the track today and see how it worked. The truck was jumping much better. The tendency to nose dive was gone and the chassis bottomed out much less.

When I was rebuilding the shocks I also lowered the rear camber link. The track I run on is hardpacked and very dry and dusty. In other words slick as snot on a door knob. I was sure that I read lowering the rear camber link would raise the roll center and help to lock down the rear end.

Today the trucks rear end was on a mision to drive me insane. Accelerating out of a corner or up the face of a jump was a thrill a minute. The rear end would break loose kind of randomly and send me off the side of the jump or into the pipe on the turn. When I got home I logged on here to see what else I could do to get more rear traction. There waiting for me was your one word post. I checked it out and sure enough I did it exactly backwards. Seems I wasted a day of practice chasing a problem I created myself.

I have a one word post too.

CRAP!!!
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:19 PM
  #6633  
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Originally Posted by USMC STONE
Ran both for first time today brand new with stock set ups to compare the Losi 2.0 and My Tekno. The lap times were 1-1.5 seconds a lap faster with the Losi. To me the Tekno had no rear traction during cornering and it would cut loose way too easy. The other bad part is this truck does not fly well at all with stock setup. It nose dives much worse than the original Losi 1.0 I had did. Box stock the Losi 2.0 took high speed corners and jumped a lot better. Basically it didn't work for me with stock setup. I need more rear traction and correct this nose dive to be as competitive as I was last season. I got lapped by that Losi 2.0 in the main by the sponsored driver I usually switch positions with during all races. Any quick fixes? Seemed like it needed to move weight towards rear and they may correct both problems
Try moving the rear hubs forward, going up to green or orange springs in the rear, lowering your ride height a little (keeping the rear the same as the front or even a little lower). If you're too loose on entry try turning your down your D/R, increasing your expo, or slowing down your servo. If it tracks pretty straight on power but you're loose going into a turn you can also lower your anti-squat to the middle position and you'll have more rear traction into the corners.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:51 PM
  #6634  
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
Try moving the rear hubs forward, going up to green or orange springs in the rear, lowering your ride height a little (keeping the rear the same as the front or even a little lower). If you're too loose on entry try turning your down your D/R, increasing your expo, or slowing down your servo. If it tracks pretty straight on power but you're loose going into a turn you can also lower your anti-squat to the middle position and you'll have more rear traction into the corners.
Thank you, I'm going to try that. I didn't change anything during the day other than lowering the ride height. It does have insane off power steering.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:53 PM
  #6635  
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2nd week on the tack and the 2nd week w a broken stub axle! This truck is amazing to drive and even makes me look good on the traxck but the axle issue sucks when they r on backorder everywhere!?!?! WTH Tekno?
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:03 PM
  #6636  
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Originally Posted by TazzxxZooksd
2nd week on the tack and the 2nd week w a broken stub axle! This truck is amazing to drive and even makes me look good on the traxck but the axle issue sucks when they r on backorder everywhere!?!?! WTH Tekno?
See bold below.

Originally Posted by teknorc
Hi everyone,

After some more research and testing on the stub axles, our initial thoughts about certain combinations of products causing the breaks was incorrect. There is no rhyme or reason to it except that some of the axles are too hard and others aren't. We're not exactly sure which run of kits used what stub axles, but we believe there were a couple different batches of axles. This explains why some people are having issues and most aren't.

So, for anyone having issues, please email us ([email protected]) with your info. Email pictures of the broken parts if you have them and we'll take it from there. Thanks a lot.
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:19 PM
  #6637  
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What is this Fred shock setup I see people talking about ? I can't find it !
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:31 PM
  #6638  
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Originally Posted by virgilj
I set my shocks using Fred's method and finally got a chance to go to the track today and see how it worked. The truck was jumping much better. The tendency to nose dive was gone and the chassis bottomed out much less.

When I was rebuilding the shocks I also lowered the rear camber link. The track I run on is hardpacked and very dry and dusty. In other words slick as snot on a door knob. I was sure that I read lowering the rear camber link would raise the roll center and help to lock down the rear end.

Today the trucks rear end was on a mision to drive me insane. Accelerating out of a corner or up the face of a jump was a thrill a minute. The rear end would break loose kind of randomly and send me off the side of the jump or into the pipe on the turn. When I got home I logged on here to see what else I could do to get more rear traction. There waiting for me was your one word post. I checked it out and sure enough I did it exactly backwards. Seems I wasted a day of practice chasing a problem I created myself.

I have a one word post too.

CRAP!!!
Smaller rear sway-bar will help side bite...........
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:32 PM
  #6639  
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PRODURANGO<

This is the link to the thread. There's a lot of info in the thread, but the shock set-up is in the first part.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:45 PM
  #6640  
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Originally Posted by teknorc
Hi everyone,

After some more research and testing on the stub axles, our initial thoughts about certain combinations of products causing the breaks was incorrect. There is no rhyme or reason to it except that some of the axles are too hard and others aren't. We're not exactly sure which run of kits used what stub axles, but we believe there were a couple different batches of axles. This explains why some people are having issues and most aren't.

So, for anyone having issues, please email us ([email protected]) with your info. Email pictures of the broken parts if you have them and we'll take it from there. Thanks a lot.
Well this is good to see. I like to see a company support its product.
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:26 PM
  #6641  
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Tekno SCT 410 TQ'ed and won main A in 2nd series Indonesian Traxxas Electric Championship (National)
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:46 PM
  #6642  
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tekno took 1st and 3rd at dirt mafia series rd 4
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:54 PM
  #6643  
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Ran first time this weekend well actually twice raced it the local oval to 3 in the a main against stuff set up just for oval and ran today on the off road track I am very happy with the truck set up perfect on the oval a little free off road was slapping back of chassis hard causing it to nose dive slight ride height change and was pretty close still a little free but I was running the chassis braces and the hubs all the back am gonna move them forward and take the braces off no broken parts .. love this truck
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:27 PM
  #6644  
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I plugged the trigger on one of these. I have an Orion R10pro. What would be a good motor choice?
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:28 PM
  #6645  
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Aww, the first Tekno roundy, round!
Welcome to the club.1
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