Stock Diff Oil
 

I was looking to replace the stock diff oil but cannot find it. Is there another oil that is similar or the same?

I am going switch my center back to 5k and try again. The small track I run on is very technical since my truck is setup better it may benefit from a lighter center.

Main thing is go with what works for you and what you are trying to get out of the setup.

On a very technical track, I probably would look to see what it is I need for my driving style as well as the conditions present. Do I need more onpower steering, more acceleration, etc. Is it rough, loose, high bite, etc. I also keep in mind other changes to suspension that can be useful too.

I usually use the Xray setup guide to get an ideal on where to go:

http://www.lorrccc.com.au/uploads/hudy_setup.pdf

Here is a quick breakdown on diffs.

DIFF OIL THICKNESS CHARACTERISTICS

Front

Thinner
• Increases steering into corners (off-power)
• If oil is too thin the steering may become inconsistent,
especially it can lose forward traction (and steering)
during acceleration out of corners

Thicker
• Increases stability into corners during braking
• Increases steering on-power at corner exit

Center

Thinner
• Front wheels unload more during acceleration
• Decreases on-power steering (reduces oversteer)
• Easier to drive on rough tracks
• If a high-power engine is used you could waste too much power and sometime “cook” the oil in the center differential because it “overloads”
• More off-power steering

Thicker
• More all-wheel drive effect
• Better acceleration
• Increases on-power steering (reduces understeer)
• Better suited on high-bite, smooth tracks
• Car can be more nervous to drive especially if a high power engine is used - you might need to be smooth on the throttle

Rear

Thinner
• Increases cornering traction
• Increases steering into corner

Thicker
• Decreases rear traction while cornering
• Reduces wheelspin

Where do you find Tekno's 5000 wt oil? There is no part number and the first page states that there is a difference from manufacturer to manufacturer. I am comfortable with the stock setup. How do I refill (when I get to that point)?

They are slightly different, but nothing dramatic. You can use any of the 5000 diff oils, maybe PT RC racing oil would be the most accurate cst rated oils.
You probably wouldn't notice a difference in all of them other than mugen oil which seems to be a little thicker than most others.

I started with ofna silicone diff fluid for tha very reason. At the track I run at they seem to stock several weights from ofna. I found the same thing with shock oil so I started with tlr oils.

Cain: Thanks for the link!

no prob, I use a combo of that guide and the mark pavadis one, I keep those in my pit box.

I hope the rumors about Tekno having a guide on the way is true.

Got some Pro-Line Trencher X tires that I'm unable to get the outside bead to seat on a set of DE Borregos. JConcepts tires no problem, and the Trenchers on Pro-Line Wheels no problem. Not a big deal just thought I'd mention it.

Is anyone using the Proline EVO SC body? I dont have the paper guide that tells you which dimples to open up for the body mounts. My Tekno is set up to use the same exact mounting points as the Losi SCTE. Anyone have the paper that they can post a pic of? Honestly I'm surprised Proline doesnt have it up on their website. I need it for a race tomorrow. I emailed them a few days ago but still no reply.

What you do is ream the holes before painting. If you have painted the body already then use grease on body posts to mark the right place. What posts to use depends on the body.

Thanks for the suggestions. I dont like to cut the holes for a few reasons, it's a personal preference. Some painters suggest you ream them first others prefer you dont. The ole grease on the body post method is my fall back. Usually Proline includes the sheet that shows you which dimples on the body to ream out for each different vehicle (that's why the dimples are there). My last 3 Proline bodies all had the mounting guide sheets and provided the perfect mounting points, no guessing and no slightly off kiltel mount jobs, 2 Flotek Tundra's and a Flotek Raptor. Unfortunately the sheet got left out with my EVO SC body.

Does anyone have the sheet they can take a pic of and post for me? That would be much appreciated and I'll award you 1 million internet points. Thanks!

I thought the body posts positions were labeled on the wheel well cutout? Or is it JConcepts that does that?

I tried the 19T pinion and the wires got really hot. In fact, the "C" wire disconnected from the ESC during the ride. I guess 18T in my application is best.

same driving conditions?