Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

On #2 - I think if you just take out all 4 of the bumpsteer washers you should be able to keep running a cap head screw without rubbing the wheel.

sramos

iTrader: (2)

I use the inside to increase the mechanical resolution of the steering. By having a shorter arm on the servo the servo has to turn more to achieve the same degree of overall steering. Here's an exaggerated pic of what I'm talking about.


so by your explanation does that make it softer? i guess what im asking is how/will i feel a difference on my wheel when im steering?

sffan15

iTrader: (11)

You'll have to turn the wheel further to get the truck's wheels to turn the same amount, assuming same electronic adjustments are kept (EPA, dual rate, etc). Since most of us take away from the servo's full range via EPA, this actually makes sense to do.

mdmaxx

my sct is all built. Just waiting on esc/motor. Build went smooth. I used the washers on the pinion gear. directions in the manual were good.

sramos

iTrader: (2)

still confused lol.......tryin to picture mechanically in my head. with a shorter arm ill have to turn wheel further? long or short arm will be more twitchy. confusing me haha

Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

Slightly off topic, but your track's scoring system is whacked. It's showing the top 5 and top 10 average laps as being ~5 seconds faster than your single fastest lap. Average lap times will always be slower than your single fastest lap. How much slower, depends on your consistency. You ought to tell your race director to fix that, so you can have a real idea of your driving consistency. I always prefered the other scoring software that actually prints out a consistency number, instead of top 5 average lap times.

Back on topic

sffan15

iTrader: (11)

Long should be more twitchy. Let me help (values below are not real, just to visualize further):

Radio wheel angle - Car steering angle, shorter hole - Car steering angle, longer hole
0deg - 0deg - 0deg
10deg - 8deg - 10deg
20deg - 16deg - 20deg
Etc.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

A longer servo arm will have the same effect on the feel as a faster servo with lower torque. A shorter arm will have the same effect as a slower servo with more torque.

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

Regarding the timing software, our track uses the same, and I haven't noticed this issue. I *think* the issue here is that it is correctly not including the first lap (a couple seconds) at the start for fastest lap, but on their race results IS including it in the top 5 and top 10 calculations.

As for the servo screw hole thing. Further out will be more twitchy (and where you would put it if you had a high torque but slower servo with limited travel). Further in will be less twitchy (and where you'd put it if you had a low torque servo that was fast with plenty of travel).

With my servo, while it was lightning fast on the outside, it didn't really get me anything, since my servo is a .08 anyway, except some glitching on rare occasions. Moving it inward left me with an easier to steer rig (using more of the full travel and turning EPA's down less), no brownout glitching (less amp draw since it is easier on the servo to move further than to work harder moving a smaller distance), and still plenty fast.

I run a racer's edge metal clamping servo arm (what was in stock when I stripped the plastic SCTE one a while back) that is similar to the one pictured, but a little taller, so I added a shim.

suby723

iTrader: (21)

Is the stock shock oil 37.5 for front and 30 for rear? Tekno finished 1st and 2nd today at nor cal hobbies.

JoeC

iTrader: (120)

What body are most of you running with this?

sramos

iTrader: (2)

im running the jconcepts x-flow body now. fits well. i have a FTW diamondback body out getting painted right now and im curious how thats gonna look. that body is awesome if you havent seen it before. ill post pics when ever he gets it done

sramos

iTrader: (2)

i believe that is the losi equivalent. AE equvalent would be 35fr 27.5 rr.........can tekno confirm this??

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

Should be Losi 35 and Associated 37.5 for the front, Losi 27.5 and Associated 30 for the rear. 450 cSt front and 350 cSt rear. Honestly though, starting within 5 wt of those should be fine for your first runs. Use that as a starting point and tune from there.

Syldain

Just waiting on my esc....