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-   -   Tekno SCT410 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/676777-tekno-sct410-thread.html)

ChuckTee 06-19-2014 11:49 PM


Originally Posted by rvinvents (Post 13346104)
hey CT
here are some pics of my new titan body, I included a close up of the rear air vent mod i did (not really a mod just left some material in place) hopefully it will add the needed strength to keep the center post from breaking this time,

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2299f6e7.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...ps35bf646c.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...ps028253ed.jpg

Nice lid man. Also it looks like that center post is gonna last and hold up a check of a lot better. The paint looks real good man

TheMuffinman 06-20-2014 12:00 AM


Originally Posted by XzedamX (Post 13347432)
The xerun sct120 pro will be a better choice ;-)!

reason why I wanted to the sc8 it was water proff and had a better fan on it

Mizchief 06-20-2014 06:59 AM


Originally Posted by Shark413 (Post 13348315)
Last weekend my Tekno was running great, then during practice right before the races it started glitching bad. I started with the simplest stuff first, checked the wire connections, changed the sensor wire, no good. Tried to recalibrate the esc and now it wouldn't arm. Tried a rx out of another truck, no good. Now I was getting desperate, had about 20 mins before the first heats started. I changed out the motor, nope. I changed out the esc from another truck, no good, still won't arm. Finally I power cycled the system (turned everything off/on) and it finally armed. Everything was just hanging loose, so I had to install the esc, and finish up the wiring, I barely made it. Still couldn't figure out what caused the problem. So today I was looking at the original motor and noticed something didn't look right, there was a gap where there should not be one. The rear part of the motor can seems to be glued to the main housing and it had come loose. I assume this caused the sensors to get out of alignment and caused the glitching. The rear plate screws into the rear end bell cover, which is glued to the main housing. Has anybody ever seen anything like this? I have several Pro4 motors I have been using for years and I never had this happen.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...psd68ba712.jpg
Arrow is pointing to the gap in the motor can.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...psd499e66e.jpg
I could pull the rear end bell away from the main housing, only the windings were holding it on.

Mine did that once. Was due to having the wires too short and the flex put too much stress on the tabs. I did the posts facing the motor with the cross wire setup. But have since swithed to the "up and over" setup using deans wet noodle wires to give it plenty of flex.

fq06 06-20-2014 07:37 AM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 13348782)
Mine did that once. Was due to having the wires too short and the flex put too much stress on the tabs. I did the posts facing the motor with the cross wire setup. But have since switched to the "up and over" setup using deans wet noodle wires to give it plenty of flex.

Yep, best way to wire a RX8 in this truck. The wire doesn't have to push into the slot, fill the slot with solder and solder the wire sitting on top of the post. Gives the wire a nice easy arc to the motor tabs. Never had an issue with it that way.

Mizchief 06-20-2014 08:08 AM


Originally Posted by fq06 (Post 13348855)
Yep, best way to wire a RX8 in this truck. The wire doesn't have to push into the slot, fill the slot with solder and solder the wire sitting on top of the post. Gives the wire a nice easy arc to the motor tabs. Never had an issue with it that way.

you can still push the wire all the way into the slot from the top. What I do is after tinning take a big pair of channel-locks (big for leverage) and squeeze the wire flat so it will fit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QktbPHdvQA

i've also heard it's better on the tabs to loop the wire around so the wire attaches from the output shaft side. If not using wet noodles or another really flexible wire I would do it this way.

fq06 06-20-2014 08:12 AM

Yep, I used to smash the wire to fit in the slot but its been a little over a year since I used that method. As long as you have a good joint its really not needed.

rvinvents 06-20-2014 09:57 AM

just bought a hobbywing sctpro and lcd program box when i first set it up i was able to connect to the esc and proram it with no issues but after one run i decided it felt pretty weak compared to my rx8 with same exact pro4 4600 kv motor so i hooked up the program box and it says connecting to esc but it just freezes there and wont connect, anybody running the hobbywing stuff have any help this is my first one of these I may be doing something wrong?

Shark413 06-20-2014 10:37 AM


Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK (Post 13348337)
contact customer support and put that famous tekin customer service to work.

RC Phreak, it is out of warranty, and I am not sure Tekin would fix it for free so I decide to try retaining compound (same stuff used to hold the magnets to the shaft) to try and fix it. The windings look fine, so I just applied some compound and pressed the end bell back on using a press and some padding.

Shark413 06-20-2014 10:41 AM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 13348782)
Mine did that once. Was due to having the wires too short and the flex put too much stress on the tabs. I did the posts facing the motor with the cross wire setup. But have since swithed to the "up and over" setup using deans wet noodle wires to give it plenty of flex.


I always try and route the wires so they don't put any stress on the tabs. I don't think the wires had anything to do with the end bell coming off, just a freak occurrence I guess.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...psff98d87c.jpg
This is how I had it wired.

Jtipsy 06-20-2014 10:46 AM


Originally Posted by rvinvents (Post 13349140)
just bought a hobbywing sctpro and lcd program box when i first set it up i was able to connect to the esc and proram it with no issues but after one run i decided it felt pretty weak compared to my rx8 with same exact pro4 4600 kv motor so i hooked up the program box and it says connecting to esc but it just freezes there and wont connect, anybody running the hobbywing stuff have any help this is my first one of these I may be doing something wrong?

Your unplugging the fan and using the jumper wire. Cause plugging it in like the rx8 wont work. Hope that helps.

tc5 man 06-20-2014 11:23 AM


Originally Posted by Shark413 (Post 13349231)
I always try and route the wires so they don't put any stress on the tabs. I don't think the wires had anything to do with the end bell coming off, just a freak occurrence I guess.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...psff98d87c.jpg
This is how I had it wired.





Hum never saw anybody use the mechinal brake on this truck . How is it ?

FastPete 06-20-2014 01:50 PM


Originally Posted by rvinvents (Post 13349140)
just bought a hobbywing sctpro and lcd program box when i first set it up i was able to connect to the esc and proram it with no issues but after one run i decided it felt pretty weak compared to my rx8 with same exact pro4 4600 kv motor so i hooked up the program box and it says connecting to esc but it just freezes there and wont connect, anybody running the hobbywing stuff have any help this is my first one of these I may be doing something wrong?

Answered your PM

Shark413 06-20-2014 03:52 PM


Originally Posted by tc5 man (Post 13349327)
Hum never saw anybody use the mechinal brake on this truck . How is it ?

TC5, I started racing 1/8 nitro buggies way back, I then ran mech brakes on my 1/8 nitro converted to electric buggies (Kyosho/Losi) before the purpose built electric buggies were available. I also ran mech brakes on my HB D8 SC conversion. So I kind of like the feel of the freewheeling clutch and ability to adjust brake bias. I have been running my Tekno SCT with motor brakes since I got it (2013) and the performance is great. But I decided to test out the mech brakes because I felt motor braking was not as consistent because the center diff comes into play and diffs out under hard braking. I ran the mech brakes for a couple of race weekends and I was pleased with their performance, it felt smoother (freewheeling off power) and more consistent (had it adjusted 60/40 front bias) which gave me strong braking that stayed nice an straight. But in the end I decided the extra weight and complexity wasn't worth it for me. I run on a small indoor track and the motor brakes works just fine, and having a lighter truck is more beneficial. On a larger outdoor track the mech brakes may work out better.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...psc4c32c5f.png

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...pse3b80f6a.png

Unfed RcFou 06-21-2014 12:09 AM

Hi guys I have heard really good things about this Kit but I'm wondering if it will be good for bashing or just racing. I'm trying to get a good short course truck for bashing also is there good parts support? I know a lot of you have this kit so I'm wondering if anyone could answer my question. And what motor and esc combo are you using that will make it very fast. Thanks

nanoverse 06-21-2014 01:54 AM


Originally Posted by Unfed RcFou (Post 13350567)
Hi guys I have heard really good things about this Kit but I'm wondering if it will be good for bashing or just racing. I'm trying to get a good short course truck for bashing also is there good parts support? I know a lot of you have this kit so I'm wondering if anyone could answer my question. And what motor and esc combo are you using that will make it very fast. Thanks

Get a LCG Traxxas Slash with a 4S system. Hobbywing SCT-Pro and a 2000kv motor combo. Turnigy 4S batts for super cheap. Part supply in abundance propably even from a lot of LHS's.


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