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Old 09-29-2013, 08:26 AM
  #15091  
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Originally Posted by RavensNightFury
hey guys has any one got a good setup for this type of track I race on for the sct410
Is that a round about on the right side of the track so cars will actually be driving in opposite directions in the same lane with the humps?!?!?!


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Old 09-29-2013, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by colormegone
Well I raced my truck yesterday for the first time..
VTX8 with a 4000 Hw motor...16t, and SMC 7200... Very low temps on motor/esc/battery in a 10 min. main with no problems.. Could go up to 17t-18t if needed but had plenty of top end and lots of punch before the jumps.. This is a large 1/8th scale track here in Ga.
I have the truck set up with factory specs (except for the battery mod) just to see how it goes and BOY does it like to nose dive but you can really turn it on around corners.. Had to add 1.5oz of weight to the rear to help it in the rough ass woops the track has but will need to fix the nose diving..
I have read for awhile now that anything from yellow, pink, orange, for the front and green or red in the rear with 8 hole piston and less weight oils... Man this is going to be a pain to get right since I can only race twice a month..........lol
8x1.3 pistons, 35f30r and black tekno f and green tekno rear springs. I run rough 1/8th track and that cured my nose down completely and depending what truck u r coming from u may need to change your approach style.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:35 AM
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Same. Stock 10x1.2 pistons even with some of the stiffest rear springs and I was nose diving like crazy. Just by going to 8x1.3, I've been able to go down 3-4 spring stiffness on the back with still no sign of nose diving.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by colormegone
Well I raced my truck yesterday for the first time..
VTX8 with a 4000 Hw motor...16t, and SMC 7200... Very low temps on motor/esc/battery in a 10 min. main with no problems.. Could go up to 17t-18t if needed but had plenty of top end and lots of punch before the jumps.. This is a large 1/8th scale track here in Ga.
I have the truck set up with factory specs (except for the battery mod) just to see how it goes and BOY does it like to nose dive but you can really turn it on around corners.. Had to add 1.5oz of weight to the rear to help it in the rough ass woops the track has but will need to fix the nose diving..
I have read for awhile now that anything from yellow, pink, orange, for the front and green or red in the rear with 8 hole piston and less weight oils... Man this is going to be a pain to get right since I can only race twice a month..........lol
I would start with a bigger pinion to pull the nose up once you've left the lip of the jump. Wth a 16t and the 4000 there's not a lot of rev left to get you out of trouble in the air.
I guess from there you have to go the spring/piston/oil weight hunt to get it right for your track. But you may find that a bigger pinion may be able to keep the nose up so its not an issue.

I didn't have the issue to fix so I can't be of much help on that but many found stiffer springs in general help and didn't have to change pistons. If that doesnt get it I guess you have to go the whole enchilada, pistons with more pack.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:49 AM
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pistons solved it for me. The thing to look for is how abrupt is the face of the jump, and see if your compressing the suspension enough to slap the rear on it.

For me, based on how often you get to race, I personally would try the 8 x 1.3mm pistons and then configure from there unless you track is really really rough.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RokleM
Of course. The obvious default answer with no other details today is roughly 7200 regardless (if you ignore weight savings), as that's as good as batteries get currently.
Yesterday I really babied my 7200 during the 10min main and had plenty of punch left at the end vs. hard acceleration and hard breaking at every turn in the qualifies. I finished second behind a much better driver in a Tekno.

One of the biggest savers I think was to use more slide breaking vs. the trigger. Throwing the rear end into the turn then gradually applying throttle vs. instant full pull. Lap times were pretty much the same. When I was in traffic i would use the power of the 4300 to break late on the inside and pull away to avoid tangling.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
pistons solved it for me. The thing to look for is how abrupt is the face of the jump, and see if your compressing the suspension enough to slap the rear on it.

For me, based on how often you get to race, I personally would try the 8 x 1.3mm pistons and then configure from there unless you track is really really rough.
Thanks guys for all the tips..............
I have never driven a 4x4 sct and race 2wd sct and 1/8th e buggy.
My e buggy flies perfect. I will just have to mess with this thing and see what happens. I will for sure change the pistons and go up a tooth on the pinion.
I'll let you know what happens as I change things up.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Yesterday I really babied my 7200 during the 10min main and had plenty of punch left at the end vs. hard acceleration and hard breaking at every turn in the qualifies. I finished second behind a much better driver in a Tekno.

One of the biggest savers I think was to use more slide breaking vs. the trigger. Throwing the rear end into the turn then gradually applying throttle vs. instant full pull. Lap times were pretty much the same. When I was in traffic i would use the power of the 4300 to break late on the inside and pull away to avoid tangling.
I run the SMC 6500s and easily make 10 min mains with consistent power.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Yesterday I really babied my 7200 during the 10min main and had plenty of punch left at the end vs. hard acceleration and hard breaking at every turn in the qualifies. I finished second behind a much better driver in a Tekno.

One of the biggest savers I think was to use more slide breaking vs. the trigger. Throwing the rear end into the turn then gradually applying throttle vs. instant full pull. Lap times were pretty much the same. When I was in traffic i would use the power of the 4300 to break late on the inside and pull away to avoid tangling.
I drive like that too and had no problems with my 7200..
If you were racing at Loganville yesterday then I'm one of the guys you passed..lol
I finished 5th
How about giving me some set up tips for loganville if that's where you race..
I sure could use it...
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:41 AM
  #15100  
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Ran my SCT 410 with the BCE chassis yesterday at the Shortcourse Explosion race at Delta r/c. The track was sugared so the grip was high and had some good size jumps. The BCE chassis really helped with the nose diving and made the truck more consistent. I struggled in qualifying with traction rolling and had to start 9th on the grid. Made a couple changes for the main and I finished 2nd, behind TLR driver Phillip Atondo.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:01 AM
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Has anyone tried the 8x1.3 pistons in the rear only?
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by mo
Ran my SCT 410 with the BCE chassis yesterday at the Shortcourse Explosion race at Delta r/c. The track was sugared so the grip was high and had some good size jumps. The BCE chassis really helped with the nose diving and made the truck more consistent. I struggled in qualifying with traction rolling and had to start 9th on the grid. Made a couple changes for the main and I finished 2nd, behind TLR driver Phillip Atondo.
What changes did you do too stop the traction rolling?
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:18 AM
  #15103  
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Originally Posted by colormegone
Well I raced my truck yesterday for the first time..
VTX8 with a 4000 Hw motor...16t, and SMC 7200... Very low temps on motor/esc/battery in a 10 min. main with no problems.. Could go up to 17t-18t if needed but had plenty of top end and lots of punch before the jumps.. This is a large 1/8th scale track here in Ga.
I have the truck set up with factory specs (except for the battery mod) just to see how it goes and BOY does it like to nose dive but you can really turn it on around corners.. Had to add 1.5oz of weight to the rear to help it in the rough ass woops the track has but will need to fix the nose diving..
I have read for awhile now that anything from yellow, pink, orange, for the front and green or red in the rear with 8 hole piston and less weight oils... Man this is going to be a pain to get right since I can only race twice a month..........lol
I'm guessing that was at Loganville RC. I was the dude in the solid red Tekno.
The changes I made that I really liked on that track:
1.5mm rear toe plate with stock insert setup.
7/7/5 diff oils
green kyosho springs all around
8x1.3 pistons 32.5 front 30 rear
ran gridirons when it was dusty and DD's in the evening when the track firmed up a bit
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:30 AM
  #15104  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
I'm guessing that was at Loganville RC. I was the dude in the solid red Tekno.
The changes I made that I really liked on that track:
1.5mm rear toe plate with stock insert setup.
7/7/5 diff oils
green kyosho springs all around
8x1.3 pistons 32.5 front 30 rear
ran gridirons when it was dusty and DD's in the evening when the track firmed up a bit
Yup it was Loganville... Came in 5th (not good but first time out with the new truck and track lay out)
I have the yellow/white/black tekno..
I just pulled the pistons out and since I have a small machine shop (gun shop) I am going to make me some delrin pistons. I will make them 6x1.50 to give me 10.60
Pretty much the same as 8x1.3 and see what happens. I run 7/7/3 and am happy with that but thanks for the tips on the springs and tires..
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:50 AM
  #15105  
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Originally Posted by colormegone
Yup it was Loganville... Came in 5th (not good but first time out with the new truck and track lay out)
I have the yellow/white/black tekno..
I just pulled the pistons out and since I have a small machine shop (gun shop) I am going to make me some delrin pistons. I will make them 6x1.50 to give me 10.60
Pretty much the same as 8x1.3 and see what happens. I run 7/7/3 and am happy with that but thanks for the tips on the springs and tires..
I'll probably go back to 3k in the rear in the cooler temps at that track and with the extra rear toe. Problem for me was that it was getting really dusty in the hot sun and was diffing out around the turns in the rear.
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