17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
09-28-2013, 06:42 AM
Justpoet hit it on the head. Outdoors, 7 minute main, my first time out I dumped a GOOD 5000 to the point where it's below LVC and have to jump start a LIPO with NIMH first. There is absolutely no way I could have made a 10. 7200 is the only thing that gets me through a main safely. Track, driving style, and electronics along with setup are absolutely KEY here when it comes to batteries. Absolutely no one on this forum can tell you, regardless of their experience or how much they think they know, if a 5300 will be sufficient for you without additional info. The best way to test, is literally test in a safe environment at the track. Start the timer, run as hard as you would in a main until you're about to hit LVC, and see how much absolute maximum time you can withstand on that battery (less is obviously safer and better on your equipment).
09-28-2013, 06:57 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
I agree to a point. I know when I am at the track for practice or testing a setup I am not going as hard as I would in a main. You really never know how long a battery will last untill you put it in a main and run it. I would see what others use at your track and use that as a guide line to what you should get. If I had to throw out a guess a 6000mah-7500mah would be a good area to be in. That is my opinion.
09-28-2013, 08:19 AM
SPC makes a really good, low price 8200 mAh 2S lipo that works great in 4wd SCT. It's not a hard case lipo, but unless you're going to a ROAR race, who cares?
09-28-2013, 08:32 AM
BCE Chassis Build
Got my pretty BCE chassis from Bill yesterday and sat down for a 3 hour wrench session. Went together perfectly specs are factory (kickup,holes line up exactly of course)! Chassis is beautifully machined and light weight, around 221 grams. Also upgraded to the team sr carbon towers since the stockers were bent. Heres a few pics. I got my chassis by posting a question on their site here https://shop.bcespeed.com/contactus.sc. I believe they still have a few available for interested people.
Intial impressions are the chassis is very flexible . Going to run with rear front braces on recommendation from Bill! RTR car weight 6.4 pounds, but I think it will not need the extra weight to settle her down. It almost made me think of my touring car but without a top deck. Went with the Matt Wolter setup but with less rear toe to increase corner speed. My main setup issue with the tekno was locking the rear with that much toe. Really looking forward to testing with 3.5 degree rear toe today!
Intial impressions are the chassis is very flexible . Going to run with rear front braces on recommendation from Bill! RTR car weight 6.4 pounds, but I think it will not need the extra weight to settle her down. It almost made me think of my touring car but without a top deck. Went with the Matt Wolter setup but with less rear toe to increase corner speed. My main setup issue with the tekno was locking the rear with that much toe. Really looking forward to testing with 3.5 degree rear toe today!
09-28-2013, 10:16 AM
Just wanted to let everyone know where I was on the 8x1.4 pistons. After some reading and some searching I have decided the the 8x1.4 pistons I bought will not be what I am looking for. I got some kyosho 8x1.3 and 8x1.2 pistons to try before I spend more money on the tekno pistons. I like my kits to have the lowest possible ride height, not bottom out but still plush. Right now my shocks are.......
Green tekno spring front
Yellow tekno spring rear
8x1.2 piston front and rear
Losi 35wt oil front
Losi 27.5wt oil rear
No preload on the springs
Standard bladder setup with no rebound
This is very close to what I'm trying to get at. I want to try 30wt in rear and 37.5wt in front but ran out of both. I will post back tomorrow when I get some more oil.
Green tekno spring front
Yellow tekno spring rear
8x1.2 piston front and rear
Losi 35wt oil front
Losi 27.5wt oil rear
No preload on the springs
Standard bladder setup with no rebound
This is very close to what I'm trying to get at. I want to try 30wt in rear and 37.5wt in front but ran out of both. I will post back tomorrow when I get some more oil.
As for the lightweight chassis style setups, would be cool if there was a way to still run the air guards in some manner unless I am missing something?
09-28-2013, 11:16 AM
Hi Cain, Sorry I Haven't had much time to input here, as of now we are trying
many setups, and configurations, so we can achieve the most from
different combinations. I have been receiving many pics and info.
just need to get it up for you all to see.
Here is one of our Team drivers Jason Moberlys setups with full guards and air control. He will check in soon with alot of his experiences? tips.
If any of you Tek Guys that would like info questions just drop us a line via
our site, I can say we are really enjoying working with the Tekno line up
from all of our testers, racers. They like the SC and Buggy very much
Great Job Tekno
(Jason Moberleys Proto with Air Control and full side guards)
many setups, and configurations, so we can achieve the most from
different combinations. I have been receiving many pics and info.
just need to get it up for you all to see.
Here is one of our Team drivers Jason Moberlys setups with full guards and air control. He will check in soon with alot of his experiences? tips.
If any of you Tek Guys that would like info questions just drop us a line via
our site, I can say we are really enjoying working with the Tekno line up
from all of our testers, racers. They like the SC and Buggy very much
Great Job Tekno
(Jason Moberleys Proto with Air Control and full side guards)
09-28-2013, 12:41 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (120)
Not sure I'd go that far. If my old SC10.2 could turn like a Tekno it would've been the tits. That conversion was like a real Pro4 short course. Suspension soaked up any bump and any jump.
But my fondness for the Tekno is growing with more track time.
But my fondness for the Tekno is growing with more track time.
09-28-2013, 01:18 PM
Hey Guys,
On the box setup, where do I position the front shocks? In the build directions it says to put them on the outside on the arm. In the back of the manual on the setup sheet it says the middel like the rear...hmmmm?
On the box setup, where do I position the front shocks? In the build directions it says to put them on the outside on the arm. In the back of the manual on the setup sheet it says the middel like the rear...hmmmm?
09-28-2013, 04:38 PM
I have mine setup from the build instructions, which had it in the center of the 4 holes.
09-28-2013, 08:46 PM
09-29-2013, 01:16 AM
hey guys has any one got a good setup for this type of track I race on for the sct410
09-29-2013, 02:01 AM
09-29-2013, 02:09 AM
09-29-2013, 02:17 AM
we try that the dame thing keep commign back lol
09-29-2013, 08:24 AM
Well I raced my truck yesterday for the first time..
VTX8 with a 4000 Hw motor...16t, and SMC 7200... Very low temps on motor/esc/battery in a 10 min. main with no problems.. Could go up to 17t-18t if needed but had plenty of top end and lots of punch before the jumps.. This is a large 1/8th scale track here in Ga.
I have the truck set up with factory specs (except for the battery mod) just to see how it goes and BOY does it like to nose dive but you can really turn it on around corners.. Had to add 1.5oz of weight to the rear to help it in the rough ass woops the track has but will need to fix the nose diving..
I have read for awhile now that anything from yellow, pink, orange, for the front and green or red in the rear with 8 hole piston and less weight oils... Man this is going to be a pain to get right since I can only race twice a month..........lol
VTX8 with a 4000 Hw motor...16t, and SMC 7200... Very low temps on motor/esc/battery in a 10 min. main with no problems.. Could go up to 17t-18t if needed but had plenty of top end and lots of punch before the jumps.. This is a large 1/8th scale track here in Ga.
I have the truck set up with factory specs (except for the battery mod) just to see how it goes and BOY does it like to nose dive but you can really turn it on around corners.. Had to add 1.5oz of weight to the rear to help it in the rough ass woops the track has but will need to fix the nose diving..
I have read for awhile now that anything from yellow, pink, orange, for the front and green or red in the rear with 8 hole piston and less weight oils... Man this is going to be a pain to get right since I can only race twice a month..........lol