Losi XXX-T
#1
Losi XXX-T
I looked through 13 pages of search forum for "Losi XXX-T" and couldn't find a thread that wasn't about the problem I'm having...
Just trying to find out why the negative wire on my motor is so hot but the positive wire is cool. If there is a thread to this please give me the link and I'm sorry for posting this thread..
Thanks,
Tommy
Just trying to find out why the negative wire on my motor is so hot but the positive wire is cool. If there is a thread to this please give me the link and I'm sorry for posting this thread..
Thanks,
Tommy
#2
I looked through 13 pages of search forum for "Losi XXX-T" and couldn't find a thread that wasn't about the problem I'm having...
Just trying to find out why the negative wire on my motor is so hot but the positive wire is cool. If there is a thread to this please give me the link and I'm sorry for posting this thread..
Thanks,
Tommy
Just trying to find out why the negative wire on my motor is so hot but the positive wire is cool. If there is a thread to this please give me the link and I'm sorry for posting this thread..
Thanks,
Tommy
If only one wire is hot, usually thats a sign of a bad solder joint or a nearly broken wire that is to thin in one part and can't transfer the energy properly. think about it, a partially broken wire is no different that running a much smaller gauge wire that can't handle the load. they both overheat.
Redo the solder joints, and replace the wire and see if the problem continues.
#4
Okay thanks, its a 10t orion brushed motor if that helps any. I'm going to guess its a shorted wire because when I run the 10t motor its not getting the jump that it should. But when I run my new 20t motor it hauls!
#5
When was the last time the commutator was trued, and the brushes were replaced? Also the current flows from the negative lead. This could have something to do with the disparity in the temperature between the two leads. Although, a bad solder joint might be to blame.
#6
The motor is 1 week old, so I'm guessing the brushes are fine. Unless it was a deffective motor from the factory. I am going to check the wires in the morning. I'm thinking I might have burnt one partially off from running the car overgeared.
#7
How long has it been since the 10 turn motor was rebuilt?
#8
I bought it brand new a week ago from hobby bench.
#9
#10
Tech Regular
I also very much agree with this view.
#11
Well the 20t isn't new, sorry didn't mean to confused you. The 20t was the motor I was using before hand, then I got my 10t motor with my tazer 10t esc.
#12
Tech Champion
How much did you lower the gearing when switching to the 10T motor? May have burned a brush if not geared correctly, a 10T in a truck can be sensitive. What motor exactly?
#13
10T Orion Method R, part number is ORI25109.
It had a 25 tooth pinion with stock spur gear, I dropped the pinion down to 17 teeth.
It had a 25 tooth pinion with stock spur gear, I dropped the pinion down to 17 teeth.
#14
Overheat a brushed motor, even once, and a rebuild is in order. Also, like I have posted elsewhere before. Brushed motors are antiquated and inconvenient, especially with how cheap a brushless setup can be purchased. Basically, the brushed motors still available are not nearly the quality of high performance brushed motors of years gone by.
#15
I believe I did exactly as you said, it ran fast and as soon as it got extremely hot it stopped moving as quick as it once did. So I believe its in order for a rebuild. At my LHS the motor cost 24.95, would it be cheaper to buy a new motor or rebuild it? I know nothing about rebuilding motors. I just recently got into the sport about 6 months ago. I always drove them before but never started rebuilding stuff till recently. Also, with the brushless systems I was thinking about buying the Castle Creations Sidewinder V2, is this a good setup for my car? If not, id like to know before I shed out $160 for it.