Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Losi XXX-T

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-29-2012, 09:11 PM
  #1  
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 176
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Losi XXX-T

I looked through 13 pages of search forum for "Losi XXX-T" and couldn't find a thread that wasn't about the problem I'm having...

Just trying to find out why the negative wire on my motor is so hot but the positive wire is cool. If there is a thread to this please give me the link and I'm sorry for posting this thread..

Thanks,
Tommy
tlee13 is offline  
Old 09-29-2012, 09:45 PM
  #2  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 569
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tlee13
I looked through 13 pages of search forum for "Losi XXX-T" and couldn't find a thread that wasn't about the problem I'm having...

Just trying to find out why the negative wire on my motor is so hot but the positive wire is cool. If there is a thread to this please give me the link and I'm sorry for posting this thread..

Thanks,
Tommy
probably because it's electronics specific and not truck specific if you know what i mean.

If only one wire is hot, usually thats a sign of a bad solder joint or a nearly broken wire that is to thin in one part and can't transfer the energy properly. think about it, a partially broken wire is no different that running a much smaller gauge wire that can't handle the load. they both overheat.

Redo the solder joints, and replace the wire and see if the problem continues.
DsWright is offline  
Old 09-29-2012, 09:49 PM
  #3  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Round Lake, IL
Posts: 875
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Ideally, both wires will carry the same amount of current.

Like the above poster said, if one is hotter then the other, you have either a bad solder joint or broken wire.
WindDrake is offline  
Old 09-29-2012, 09:56 PM
  #4  
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 176
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Okay thanks, its a 10t orion brushed motor if that helps any. I'm going to guess its a shorted wire because when I run the 10t motor its not getting the jump that it should. But when I run my new 20t motor it hauls!
tlee13 is offline  
Old 09-30-2012, 01:16 AM
  #5  
Suspended
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 484
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tlee13
Okay thanks, its a 10t orion brushed motor if that helps any. I'm going to guess its a shorted wire because when I run the 10t motor its not getting the jump that it should. But when I run my new 20t motor it hauls!
When was the last time the commutator was trued, and the brushes were replaced? Also the current flows from the negative lead. This could have something to do with the disparity in the temperature between the two leads. Although, a bad solder joint might be to blame.
R.Shackleford is offline  
Old 09-30-2012, 01:21 AM
  #6  
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 176
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

The motor is 1 week old, so I'm guessing the brushes are fine. Unless it was a deffective motor from the factory. I am going to check the wires in the morning. I'm thinking I might have burnt one partially off from running the car overgeared.
tlee13 is offline  
Old 09-30-2012, 01:27 AM
  #7  
Suspended
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 484
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tlee13
The motor is 1 week old, so I'm guessing the brushes are fine. Unless it was a deffective motor from the factory. I am going to check the wires in the morning. I'm thinking I might have burnt one partially off from running the car overgeared.
How long has it been since the 10 turn motor was rebuilt?
R.Shackleford is offline  
Old 09-30-2012, 01:52 AM
  #8  
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 176
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I bought it brand new a week ago from hobby bench.
tlee13 is offline  
Old 09-30-2012, 02:18 AM
  #9  
Suspended
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 484
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tlee13
I bought it brand new a week ago from hobby bench.
Oh okay. It's just that you said my "new 20 turn motor", so I figured that was the one you were talking about. So you have new 10 and 20 turn motors?
R.Shackleford is offline  
Old 09-30-2012, 02:39 AM
  #10  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 264
Default

I also very much agree with this view.

caaraa is offline  
Old 09-30-2012, 09:24 AM
  #11  
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 176
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Well the 20t isn't new, sorry didn't mean to confused you. The 20t was the motor I was using before hand, then I got my 10t motor with my tazer 10t esc.
tlee13 is offline  
Old 09-30-2012, 09:28 AM
  #12  
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,342
Default

How much did you lower the gearing when switching to the 10T motor? May have burned a brush if not geared correctly, a 10T in a truck can be sensitive. What motor exactly?
Dave H is offline  
Old 09-30-2012, 09:48 AM
  #13  
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 176
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

10T Orion Method R, part number is ORI25109.

It had a 25 tooth pinion with stock spur gear, I dropped the pinion down to 17 teeth.
tlee13 is offline  
Old 09-30-2012, 10:15 AM
  #14  
Suspended
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 484
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tlee13
Well the 20t isn't new, sorry didn't mean to confused you. The 20t was the motor I was using before hand, then I got my 10t motor with my tazer 10t esc.
Is the 10 turn an Orion Method R? If you over geared the new motor, and got it too hot, it likely cooked the commutator and brushes. A brushed motors performance relies very heavily on a clean, perfectly round commutator, and brushes with certain metallic and lubricational properties. When you overheat a brushed motor it cooks the lubricant out of the brushes, and oxidizes the copper of the commutator. This causes a very rapid buildup of carbon on the commutator; the carbon comes from the cooked brushes. Once there is carbon built up on the commutator the current flow is greatly reduced, thus causing the motor to run at a severely lower level of performance.

Overheat a brushed motor, even once, and a rebuild is in order. Also, like I have posted elsewhere before. Brushed motors are antiquated and inconvenient, especially with how cheap a brushless setup can be purchased. Basically, the brushed motors still available are not nearly the quality of high performance brushed motors of years gone by.
R.Shackleford is offline  
Old 09-30-2012, 10:25 AM
  #15  
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 176
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I believe I did exactly as you said, it ran fast and as soon as it got extremely hot it stopped moving as quick as it once did. So I believe its in order for a rebuild. At my LHS the motor cost 24.95, would it be cheaper to buy a new motor or rebuild it? I know nothing about rebuilding motors. I just recently got into the sport about 6 months ago. I always drove them before but never started rebuilding stuff till recently. Also, with the brushless systems I was thinking about buying the Castle Creations Sidewinder V2, is this a good setup for my car? If not, id like to know before I shed out $160 for it.
tlee13 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.