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-   -   Losi XXX-T (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/665952-losi-xxx-t.html)

tlee13 09-29-2012 09:11 PM

Losi XXX-T
 
I looked through 13 pages of search forum for "Losi XXX-T" and couldn't find a thread that wasn't about the problem I'm having...

Just trying to find out why the negative wire on my motor is so hot but the positive wire is cool. If there is a thread to this please give me the link and I'm sorry for posting this thread..

Thanks,
Tommy

DsWright 09-29-2012 09:45 PM


Originally Posted by tlee13 (Post 11269417)
I looked through 13 pages of search forum for "Losi XXX-T" and couldn't find a thread that wasn't about the problem I'm having...

Just trying to find out why the negative wire on my motor is so hot but the positive wire is cool. If there is a thread to this please give me the link and I'm sorry for posting this thread..

Thanks,
Tommy

probably because it's electronics specific and not truck specific if you know what i mean.

If only one wire is hot, usually thats a sign of a bad solder joint or a nearly broken wire that is to thin in one part and can't transfer the energy properly. think about it, a partially broken wire is no different that running a much smaller gauge wire that can't handle the load. they both overheat.

Redo the solder joints, and replace the wire and see if the problem continues.

WindDrake 09-29-2012 09:49 PM

Ideally, both wires will carry the same amount of current.

Like the above poster said, if one is hotter then the other, you have either a bad solder joint or broken wire.

tlee13 09-29-2012 09:56 PM

Okay thanks, its a 10t orion brushed motor if that helps any. I'm going to guess its a shorted wire because when I run the 10t motor its not getting the jump that it should. But when I run my new 20t motor it hauls!

R.Shackleford 09-30-2012 01:16 AM


Originally Posted by tlee13 (Post 11269526)
Okay thanks, its a 10t orion brushed motor if that helps any. I'm going to guess its a shorted wire because when I run the 10t motor its not getting the jump that it should. But when I run my new 20t motor it hauls!

When was the last time the commutator was trued, and the brushes were replaced? Also the current flows from the negative lead. This could have something to do with the disparity in the temperature between the two leads. Although, a bad solder joint might be to blame.

tlee13 09-30-2012 01:21 AM

The motor is 1 week old, so I'm guessing the brushes are fine. Unless it was a deffective motor from the factory. I am going to check the wires in the morning. I'm thinking I might have burnt one partially off from running the car overgeared.

R.Shackleford 09-30-2012 01:27 AM


Originally Posted by tlee13 (Post 11269753)
The motor is 1 week old, so I'm guessing the brushes are fine. Unless it was a deffective motor from the factory. I am going to check the wires in the morning. I'm thinking I might have burnt one partially off from running the car overgeared.

How long has it been since the 10 turn motor was rebuilt?

tlee13 09-30-2012 01:52 AM

I bought it brand new a week ago from hobby bench.

R.Shackleford 09-30-2012 02:18 AM


Originally Posted by tlee13 (Post 11269780)
I bought it brand new a week ago from hobby bench.

Oh okay. It's just that you said my "new 20 turn motor", so I figured that was the one you were talking about. So you have new 10 and 20 turn motors?

caaraa 09-30-2012 02:39 AM

I also very much agree with this view.
http://www.couponsavings.info/rec/smile.jpg
http://www.couponsavings.info/for/smile.jpg

tlee13 09-30-2012 09:24 AM

Well the 20t isn't new, sorry didn't mean to confused you. The 20t was the motor I was using before hand, then I got my 10t motor with my tazer 10t esc.

Dave H 09-30-2012 09:28 AM

How much did you lower the gearing when switching to the 10T motor? May have burned a brush if not geared correctly, a 10T in a truck can be sensitive. What motor exactly?

tlee13 09-30-2012 09:48 AM

10T Orion Method R, part number is ORI25109.

It had a 25 tooth pinion with stock spur gear, I dropped the pinion down to 17 teeth.

R.Shackleford 09-30-2012 10:15 AM


Originally Posted by tlee13 (Post 11270605)
Well the 20t isn't new, sorry didn't mean to confused you. The 20t was the motor I was using before hand, then I got my 10t motor with my tazer 10t esc.

Is the 10 turn an Orion Method R? If you over geared the new motor, and got it too hot, it likely cooked the commutator and brushes. A brushed motors performance relies very heavily on a clean, perfectly round commutator, and brushes with certain metallic and lubricational properties. When you overheat a brushed motor it cooks the lubricant out of the brushes, and oxidizes the copper of the commutator. This causes a very rapid buildup of carbon on the commutator; the carbon comes from the cooked brushes. Once there is carbon built up on the commutator the current flow is greatly reduced, thus causing the motor to run at a severely lower level of performance.

Overheat a brushed motor, even once, and a rebuild is in order. Also, like I have posted elsewhere before. Brushed motors are antiquated and inconvenient, especially with how cheap a brushless setup can be purchased. Basically, the brushed motors still available are not nearly the quality of high performance brushed motors of years gone by.

tlee13 09-30-2012 10:25 AM

I believe I did exactly as you said, it ran fast and as soon as it got extremely hot it stopped moving as quick as it once did. So I believe its in order for a rebuild. At my LHS the motor cost 24.95, would it be cheaper to buy a new motor or rebuild it? I know nothing about rebuilding motors. I just recently got into the sport about 6 months ago. I always drove them before but never started rebuilding stuff till recently. Also, with the brushless systems I was thinking about buying the Castle Creations Sidewinder V2, is this a good setup for my car? If not, id like to know before I shed out $160 for it.


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