I have long rpm cups on all 4 corners. Shorts on the front toe linkage. I have never had a cup pop off and have taken a few doozies. I put Lunsford on my b4.1 and can barely get them off with my leatherman. I'm thinking of trying the JConcepts turnbuckles and ball cups, will report back if I do.

The lundsfords just dont pop off. I used to rip out a lot of ballstuds from my 22B when using the lundsford cups. I think its fine to have a cup pop in a bad crash. It saves other parts from breaking and they can pop right back on. I just dont want the cups to crack strip out threads.

Maybe i'll try RPM cups. Would I want to use two long shank or one long shank one short shank?

Keep them symmetrical. It will help a lot in setting you toe and camber. And writing down and storing your spacing for when you rebuild. If you use a long on one side use a long on the other side.

Hideeho
I have noticed several adds for b44's that have one ways in/for the front. Why/when would you want this? Where do you get it? Is it a tc4/5/6 part?

Also what exactly is a one way? I'm guessing it is a rigid axle (no dif action) that allows the front wheels to pull on power, but not slow on brakes. Is this correct?

New aluminum chassis from AVID...aaahhhh yeaaaahhhh!

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

Interesting!

I'm curious if it will work. Flex is better! Any opinions?

Thanks mate! I might give 72/31 a go and see how it works out. Permitting that gearing will fit of course?

I will be getting one as soon as available! Thanks for the post!

That's what it does... freewheels without power. Locked in on power. Some ran those when I ran a xxx4 about a decade ago. I prefer diff action and brakes.

The only way I would use one is with a stock motor. A front anti roll can come in handy with it to. Works pretty good with stock I have tried it.

I guess with stock you'd want all the drive you can get out of it, think it would be a mess on the track running a mod motor though.

In a onroad car its the weapon of choice though. Man their fun on asphalt with foam tires!:tire:
Thought about getting the mtx running again but not going to do onroad and offroad again... rc overload running both :lol:

I'm new to 4wd Buggy (have always run 2wd) so excuse the newbie question. When your car is built with no electrics in or wheels on (driveline completely free to spin) how freely should it spin if you turn the hex's over? Be able to keep spinning only a couple revolutions, a second, a few seconds etc? Just not sure what to expect and if my driveline is binding slightly somewhere or not.

Thanks :)

Give it a couple of race packs it will free up. After a full night of racing. Take the pinion off and spin the tires they will spin better. No tires it wont spin real free.

How good are ball diffs? Would it be better to upgrade to a gear diff in the future? The track I run on is med grip if that helps.
Thanks