Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread >

The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-26-2013, 08:58 PM
  #3211  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Razathorn's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2,221
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Made a custom mini torque wrench for measuring diff tension. Some rc company should make something like this. You can buy ultra sensitive screw drivers with torque displays, but their $250+.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


There went an afternoon!
Razathorn is offline  
Old 02-26-2013, 09:01 PM
  #3212  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (22)
 
UN4RACING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MODIFIED!
Posts: 13,140
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

What did you make it with. It would be cool if some one made one. Spent my day clearing driveways.
UN4RACING is offline  
Old 02-26-2013, 09:17 PM
  #3213  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Razathorn's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2,221
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by UN4RACING
What did you make it with. It would be cool if some one made one. Spent my day clearing driveways.
11/32 socket, 1mm piano wire, and a cottage cheese lid. DIALED!
Razathorn is offline  
Old 02-26-2013, 09:26 PM
  #3214  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (22)
 
UN4RACING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MODIFIED!
Posts: 13,140
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Razathorn
11/32 socket, 1mm piano wire, and a cottage cheese lid. DIALED!
Bring it to the track so we can play with that thing kicks butt.....
UN4RACING is offline  
Old 02-26-2013, 11:51 PM
  #3215  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (26)
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 691
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

All put together. Having a couple issues with it though. The first thing is electronic related, speedo sensor board bad. Any way to fix this on a Novak pulse, other than sending it in? The second is the front cvds. I have the included silver washer on the ball stud and one limiter in the shock. Here is the problem. It is like this on both sides. Both sides are built identical.

The last thing is that one of the shocks. The shock bottom cap does not go over the o ring.

Not sure why,the rest are perfect.
For the guys using rpm ball cups I used the long ones other than on the steering links. Make sure that you go through your kit completely before starting the build. I had a few parts missing that I had to run to the hobby shop for. Other than some minor things the kit went together smooth and I am very happy with it. The savox 1251 low pro servo needed no shaving to get it to fit. I want to send out a big thanks to un4racing again for the videos. I used them as a video manual and barely had to refer to the actual one. Thank you sir!

Last edited by plumbcrazy; 02-27-2013 at 12:26 AM.
plumbcrazy is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 02:59 AM
  #3216  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Razathorn's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2,221
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

In regard to the front cvds, what has most likely happened is you don't have the shock eyelets screwed onto the shaft all the way. The front shafts are 21mm stroke and the rear shafts are 27.5mm stroke. With one limiter installed, which is just under 1mm, the exposed shaft between the bottom of the shaft and the shock eyelet should measure around 20.9mm front and 26.6mm rear. If it is very far off from that, you should see if you can screw the ends on more. This is a common problem with the new big bore shafts--used to be that you screwed the eyelets on until the stopped just a little or else you would strip them, but the new shafts and eyelets are much tighter and it tricks you into not threading them on all the way.
Razathorn is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 03:33 AM
  #3217  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (26)
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 691
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Razathorn
In regard to the front cvds, what has most likely happened is you don't have the shock eyelets screwed onto the shaft all the way. The front shafts are 21mm stroke and the rear shafts are 27.5mm stroke. With one limiter installed, which is just under 1mm, the exposed shaft between the bottom of the shaft and the shock eyelet should measure around 20.9mm front and 26.6mm rear. If it is very far off from that, you should see if you can screw the ends on more. This is a common problem with the new big bore shafts--used to be that you screwed the eyelets on until the stopped just a little or else you would strip them, but the new shafts and eyelets are much tighter and it tricks you into not threading them on all the way.
That was it! All 4 of them off by over 1mm. I also noticed that I had the fronts on the inside shock hole. Your right they do trick you into thinking they are tight. Thanks, it was driving me nuts!
plumbcrazy is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 04:21 AM
  #3218  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (22)
 
UN4RACING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MODIFIED!
Posts: 13,140
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by plumbcrazy
All put together. Having a couple issues with it though. The first thing is electronic related, speedo sensor board bad. Any way to fix this on a Novak pulse, other than sending it in? The second is the front cvds. I have the included silver washer on the ball stud and one limiter in the shock. Here is the problem. It is like this on both sides. Both sides are built identical.

The last thing is that one of the shocks. The shock bottom cap does not go over the o ring.

Not sure why,the rest are perfect.
For the guys using rpm ball cups I used the long ones other than on the steering links. Make sure that you go through your kit completely before starting the build. I had a few parts missing that I had to run to the hobby shop for. Other than some minor things the kit went together smooth and I am very happy with it. The savox 1251 low pro servo needed no shaving to get it to fit. I want to send out a big thanks to un4racing again for the videos. I used them as a video manual and barely had to refer to the actual one. Thank you sir!
Your welcome. I think I will do a trouble shooting vid on the CVA's it happens a lot.

Last edited by UN4RACING; 02-27-2013 at 04:34 AM.
UN4RACING is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 04:34 AM
  #3219  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (22)
 
UN4RACING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MODIFIED!
Posts: 13,140
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

I am going to be running a 7.5 so I built some new gear boxes for the heck of it and to run a looser shim set up. This is how dirty one long out drive was... Ick! It all came from the inside of the long end where the diff nut and spring fit in. I want to pop open the new set I have on the kit any hoot. 1st night out it was making some noise. But quit after 5 packs.

Dirty sucker.
UN4RACING is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 04:37 AM
  #3220  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Quebec City
Posts: 75
Default

For your shock cap: check to see if you didn't put one of the plastic part upside down ( the little washer-like parts on top and bottom of the oring ). One of those washer-like part is very easy to install upside-down.

Okay... my explanation isn't the greatest but I'm just about to leave for work and also English isn't my first language


Check page 18 of your manual, part number 91309...
Maxime is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 05:00 AM
  #3221  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 96
Default

Originally Posted by Maxime
For your shock cap: check to see if you didn't put one of the plastic part upside down ( the little washer-like parts on top and bottom of the oring ). One of those washer-like part is very easy to install upside-down.
Those are "shock hat bushings".

Both should be installed with their flat sides against the o-rings.
kevinrc is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 05:16 AM
  #3222  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (26)
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 691
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Maxime
For your shock cap: check to see if you didn't put one of the plastic part upside down ( the little washer-like parts on top and bottom of the oring ). One of those washer-like part is very easy to install upside-down.

Okay... my explanation isn't the greatest but I'm just about to leave for work and also English isn't my first language


Check page 18 of your manual, part number 91309...
I went back through it, and it is built correctly. I also measured the cap while apart. It measures 4.65mm. I took another one apart and the cap measures 5.5mm. This is in fact a manufacturer error. I have e-mail Associated, awaiting response.
plumbcrazy is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 06:50 AM
  #3223  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (22)
 
UN4RACING's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MODIFIED!
Posts: 13,140
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by plumbcrazy
I went back through it, and it is built correctly. I also measured the cap while apart. It measures 4.65mm. I took another one apart and the cap measures 5.5mm. This is in fact a manufacturer error. I have e-mail Associated, awaiting response.
That's a lot. Best thing to do is check the droop on the kit. Measure from center to center of the mounting bolts from shock cap to lower eyelets. I will do some vids tonight. I should have pointed checking caps in the shock build...
UN4RACING is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 12:51 PM
  #3224  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: South bay Ca.
Posts: 151
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

For your consideration. Picked this up as a roller. This is my first 4wd buggy since the xxx4 first came out. How's it looking to you pros. Thanks.

Flykrisco is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 02:06 PM
  #3225  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (26)
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 691
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Flykrisco
For your consideration. Picked this up as a roller. This is my first 4wd buggy since the xxx4 first came out. How's it looking to you pros. Thanks.

Looks good! If you can, I agree with everyone about wiring the motor to the front. It really make access to the slipper easy.
plumbcrazy is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.