i recommend using the pro as well over the regular rs. i had an rs w/ my 7.5 geared at 18/81 and at larger tracks the built in temp gauge read at max LEDs.

I ran the Brushlesshobbies lt4 120amp and it was perfect for this car. Check the out at www.brushlesshobbies.com. Its fully programable like the high end esc's and buttery smoothe.

Also hobbypartz.com sells a budget line of servos called Solar Servos. They are very good for 10th scale racing. Try the D771.

Good advice guys and thanks for saving me from an RS. I was going to go 8.5 but I see 7.5 and 6.5 seem to be a more popular choice.

Imma look into the servos at hobbypartz you recommended. I hits had my DS1015 burn out on me in my trug, send it back for warranty (it's 6 months old) --- wouldn't cover it. I ask them to ship it back... And I'm told I have to pay $20 diagnostic fee + $10 shipping. So, fuck them.... Lol. I'm thru with Ace.

Saddle packs. Won't gens ace do just fine in this car? Another thing I'm sick of spending buku money on. Got 4 2s proteks I dropped $240 on... And they are puffing quicker then my buddy's gens ace packs :weird:

Maybe I should read up in the b44.1 thread on the weak points on that car and see if I can kind if compare with the b44.2. Aluminum spindles..... Didn't see them on the car. Hmmmm........

Gens Ace do fine. I run them 10-15 minutes with my b44.1 using a Lrp sxx tc v2 and sonic 6.5 with zero issues. Turnigy saddles also do just as well. No need to spend big $ on batteries.

Weak points depend on you. A dozen races on my 44.1, and broke a rear tower. Nothing else to report and its been bounced off the walls, clipped pipes, laned on, run over and used as traction by short course trucks, and tumbled 50 feet down the front straight at mach 5 after clipping a brick wall.

Sanding:

Wet (spit!) sand the drive rings, even when new, with 320, then 600 grit, removing grooves or corrosion . Wet sand the thrust with 320, then 600, then 1000+ when trying to remove grooves. You stop at 600-800 grit for the drive rings so the balls will have something to grip. The thrust rings should be as smooth as possible.

Break-in:

With one drive shaft out, tighten diff down (slowly, as to not crank it and dent the rings) and back off 1/4. Hold the tire for the side that is still attached to the diff and run the motor at low rpm for 20 seconds, working the diff. Re-tighten and back off 1/8 of a turn this time, run at low rpm for 20 seconds holding one tire. Repeat a few times, then re-tension to 1/8 off and adjust for feel. After the first few runs, the diff will need to be re-adjusted each run. You can skip the break in if you like, but you will likely bark the diff with a mod motor and a tight slipper because the balls have no surface area (groove) to grab onto and as they make their initial grooves, the diff will get looser. The initial break in is key to keeping it from slipping for the first few runs.

Wayne

My daughter broke front arms frequently, sometimes by just rubbing the tubing. Nothing else ever broke.

Pro Tek batteries.... zero complaints or issues with mine so far. No puffing and I like the warranty. It's surprising how many people leave them fully charged all the time, or in the heat or direct sunlight.

My 44.2 will be here next Thursday!!

nevermind

Good to hear. Hope mine comes in as well.

My LHS had 3 of these on the shelf today. Did anybody get one?

I got mine today :nod: just need to find time to build it.

Thanks! I have two spare ball diff I'll give it a try.

My B44.2 will be in on Tuesday or Wednesday. Woot wooooooooot!!! :tire:

I have a strong passion for this car, but I'm having soooo much trouble really getting to know it with over 2500 posts in the B44.1 thread.... so I'm going to open a can of worms by asking some specific questions. I hope someone is willing to really throw down some details and provide me with some direction:

Here we go.........

First, I'll give you what I've decided on:

Of course --- B44.2
a. Tekin RS Pro w/7.5t Redline Motor
b. Savox 1256tg

Now for the questions: (and links are greatly appreciated)

1. Stock Spur I gather is 81T. What tooth pinion should I be running with this motor (keeping temps low) & what pitch? -------- What Mod? Mod 1?

2. Shimming --- I hear about 3/6 rear and 4/4 front and 4/8.... etc. I get that the point is to make sure the mesh is tight and smooth with no slop, but what is everyone talking about with 4/8? I know it's the # of shims, but what side is what? ---------- And with that what is the part # for extra shims to purchase for the diffs? (that work with the B44.2). >>> Just need a clear answer how to shim these puppies. I have zero experience with Ball Diffs.

3. Carbon fiber chassis gluing and whatnot: I have zero clue what this is all about. Something about sanding the edges then applying glue? Doesn't that make a major mess? -------- I'm sure there is SOMETHING on RCT with directions how to go about this on C/F parts, but I can't find it :(.

4. It is obvious there are things in the instruction manual that aren't necessarily necessarily correct about (the shimming being a perfect example). With that said --- what else aside from shimming do I need to know which should be done right from the start?

5. What add-on(s) -- or (Hop-ups if you will) are recommended right from the get go? I've seen some conversation here and there that the stock ballcups are somewhat weak & to replace them with an aftermarket brand (such as RPM, Lundsford, etc....). Is this necessary? If replacing the ballcups, must you also replace the ball studs? What brand would you recommend?

6. Is a BEC / Regulator required when running the Savox 1256tg servo?

Basically --- I'm looking for a long comprehensive post that would answer the questions any noob would have entering the wonder world of the B44 series. I'm looking to be a serious competitor ---- I have a fairly good handle on 1/8th scale (buggy and truggy); but I need an indoor racer & this is it. Don't like Short Course.... bunch of hackers.

I understand the answer might be long to write & time consuming, but I truly would appreciate it & I know other noobs getting into this car would too. Please, just share all of your experience with the car & what wrenching should be done, needs to be done, parts, Mods, everything.

In advance --- thank you for your responses and I look forward to reading them and discussing them.

This should help with the carbon fiber chassis question

http://www.competitionx.com/new-to-r...n-fiber-parts/

With the savox servo, you should at the very least run a cap.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...iver-Capacitor