172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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09-26-2018, 03:56 PM
Tech Adept
The front wing part number is 2547-4 from j concepts. You can dial back the brakes with the end point adjustment in your dx4, and you mount the fan like this.
09-26-2018, 04:05 PM
IS that the RB7 rear wing mount?
09-26-2018, 04:18 PM
Tech Adept
My entire car is a rb7 minus the chassis. Every plastic parts has been changed over. This includes the rear wing stay, water fall, rear lower control arms ( this does nothing besides adjust width. The default factory setting is the same width as the rb6.6 rear arms. ) The front steering knuckles, front lower control arms, and long front shock rod ends to compensate for the droop.
09-26-2018, 04:58 PM
Oooo... That's cool looking. I like how the gullwing front arms make it look. I know that's stupid, aplogies. I know there is a performance gain as well.
09-26-2018, 05:08 PM
Tech Adept
Performance gain is debatable. My hot lap got .5 slower but I was alot more consistent. But it was a different day and different tires so I can't say for sure. I had car felt lazyer but still way more responsive than a b6. I had to deviate from the factory setup to try to get some sharpness back. The rb7 wants you to mount the front camber links in the middle hole on the front bulk head. I left it on the outter holes to make it steer faster. But I did definitely get more steering overall with this and the new knuckles vs the flat arms at the lose of response. I honestly did the upgrade because it looks cool and if it was faster that would be the extra bonus.
09-26-2018, 05:15 PM
Kyosho America Customer Service
Absolutely amazing!
A couple months ago I got an RB6.6 RTR and after 3 runs the servo gave up.
I called Kyosho America and they explained this is common with RTR servos, but that they would send me a brand new metal gear servo.
Sure enough, just a few days later the servo arrived and I'm running again!
Welcome to Kyosho America great way to take care of your customers, many thanks!
A couple months ago I got an RB6.6 RTR and after 3 runs the servo gave up.
I called Kyosho America and they explained this is common with RTR servos, but that they would send me a brand new metal gear servo.
Sure enough, just a few days later the servo arrived and I'm running again!
Welcome to Kyosho America great way to take care of your customers, many thanks!
09-26-2018, 05:33 PM
Tech Adept
The good thing about the rtr version is that everything on the kit version fits because the geometry is identical. As Jang said in the urc review of the rc10b4 rtr is that you can go race with it but in the end you might have to replace every single part to make it into a true b4. This will get you started and give you a taste and can grow with you if you are willing to spend money on it to slowly convert it to the kit version. But the kit has some issues too, you need to change out the steering rack to alloy and the bell cranks, servo horn etc if you run with no servo saver. The plastic bell cranks will split in half if you clip a wall hard with your front wheel. You change those out and it is pretty much a tank.
09-26-2018, 06:41 PM
All this talk is making my excitement to run the car worse... I'm glad I picked up the allow steering parts as well as the suspension hangers and rear hubs. I figured it would be a good move.
Friend of mine bought the RTR version. He's really impressed with it, and this guy used to race a gold pan RC10 with his friends way back when. Then again, he has an original Optima Turbo he ran when it was new, it's still sitting on his shelf.
Friend of mine bought the RTR version. He's really impressed with it, and this guy used to race a gold pan RC10 with his friends way back when. Then again, he has an original Optima Turbo he ran when it was new, it's still sitting on his shelf.
09-26-2018, 11:59 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
Performance gain is debatable. My hot lap got .5 slower but I was alot more consistent. But it was a different day and different tires so I can't say for sure. I had car felt lazyer but still way more responsive than a b6. I had to deviate from the factory setup to try to get some sharpness back. The rb7 wants you to mount the front camber links in the middle hole on the front bulk head. I left it on the outter holes to make it steer faster. But I did definitely get more steering overall with this and the new knuckles vs the flat arms at the lose of response. I honestly did the upgrade because it looks cool and if it was faster that would be the extra bonus.
LOL! I did the same thing today and noticed that the car wasn't as sharp but a little more consistent, lost .3 sec over best time with flat arms. I like the look though! I also didn't change the knuckles from the stock 6.6 ones I just slapped on the rb7 front arms. Still have to add the long eyelets to the shocks.
09-27-2018, 12:12 AM
Tech Regular
I have yet to break one of these Yeah Racing fans, https://www.amainhobbies.com/yeah-ra...0472bk/p529891
09-27-2018, 08:28 AM
Tech Addict
Arrrggg!!!! What is that wiring job. Sweet car but you might want to fix the wiring job.
My entire car is a rb7 minus the chassis. Every plastic parts has been changed over. This includes the rear wing stay, water fall, rear lower control arms ( this does nothing besides adjust width. The default factory setting is the same width as the rb6.6 rear arms. ) The front steering knuckles, front lower control arms, and long front shock rod ends to compensate for the droop.
09-27-2018, 09:00 AM
Tech Adept
Yeah, I'm definitely not on rate my wiring. I was actually trying to hide it and not put it in the spot light when I posted those pictures of my car.
09-27-2018, 09:25 AM
I swear, wiring has got to be the hardest part of a kit. I've considered shortening the wires for the ESC and servo. I ran the motor wires where I HAD to, I wanted them beneath the waterfall, unfortunately they did not fit.. so now I have to push them down when I put the body on.
Last edited by Knockoffracer; 09-27-2018 at 09:26 AM. Reason: Stupid autocorrect, and I'm a tool.
09-27-2018, 09:44 AM
I have broken 2 yeah racing fans. It's the wire connecting to the motor on the fan, it's very fragile.
I'm also curious, why do people care about how the wiring looks. An ugly wiring job does not mean it's not going to perform. As long as it's done right.
But thats not to say I don't strive of a nice looking wiring job my self. I will say that I spend more time fitting/fighting my esc and receiver in due to the RB6.6 small area up front. I really wish Kyosho had done something better in the RB7 to give a little more room.
I'm also curious, why do people care about how the wiring looks. An ugly wiring job does not mean it's not going to perform. As long as it's done right.
But thats not to say I don't strive of a nice looking wiring job my self. I will say that I spend more time fitting/fighting my esc and receiver in due to the RB6.6 small area up front. I really wish Kyosho had done something better in the RB7 to give a little more room.
09-27-2018, 11:49 AM
Tech Adept
I have broken 2 yeah racing fans. It's the wire connecting to the motor on the fan, it's very fragile.
I'm also curious, why do people care about how the wiring looks. An ugly wiring job does not mean it's not going to perform. As long as it's done right. But thats not to say I don't strive of a nice looking wiring job my self. I will say that I spend more time fitting/fighting my esc and receiver in due to the RB6.6 small area up front. I really wish Kyosho had done something better in the RB7 to give a little more room.
I'm also curious, why do people care about how the wiring looks. An ugly wiring job does not mean it's not going to perform. As long as it's done right.
But thats not to say I don't strive of a nice looking wiring job my self. I will say that I spend more time fitting/fighting my esc and receiver in due to the RB6.6 small area up front. I really wish Kyosho had done something better in the RB7 to give a little more room.