172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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10-05-2012, 05:10 PM
#1111
I guess you guys missed the point. A. its not correct in the manual either the part is supposed to be 5.8mm or there should be explanation in the manual to use a metal nut which is not in the kit(and I do read english and japanese), so how could you complete the car without the nuts. IMHO, there should be 5.8mm shock bushings not what others have used as a work around by compressing 4.8mm. Sure it works, but is it right for a $450 kit??? ahhhh no.
10-05-2012, 05:38 PM
#1114
I guess you guys missed the point. A. its not correct in the manual either the part is supposed to be 5.8mm or there should be explanation in the manual to use a metal nut which is not in the kit(and I do read english and japanese), so how could you complete the car without the nuts. IMHO, there should be 5.8mm shock bushings not what others have used as a work around by compressing 4.8mm. Sure it works, but is it right for a $450 kit??? ahhhh no.
In the exploded diagram the part number listed for the "shock ball" and "shock bush" is the same and is listed as 5303-05. They should have been on this tree.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...stic-Parts-Set
If those balls are not working, then I don't know what is up.
Here is a listing for just the shock ball/bush. Part number W0203.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ck-Bushing-Set
10-05-2012, 06:09 PM
#1115
The copy of the manual I have is from the Kyosho America website. It states that you should use a 5.8mm shock ball in the shock cap. It calls the same item a shock bush when they refer to the shock ball end.
In the exploded diagram the part number listed for the "shock ball" and "shock bush" is the same and is listed as 5303-05. They should have been on this tree.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...stic-Parts-Set
If those balls are not working, then I don't know what is up.
Here is a listing for just the shock ball/bush. Part number W0203.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ck-Bushing-Set
In the exploded diagram the part number listed for the "shock ball" and "shock bush" is the same and is listed as 5303-05. They should have been on this tree.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...stic-Parts-Set
If those balls are not working, then I don't know what is up.
Here is a listing for just the shock ball/bush. Part number W0203.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ck-Bushing-Set
10-05-2012, 06:31 PM
#1116
Thanks for the links. The manual calls for #11 for top and bottom but calls them 2 different things on page 28 and 29. One says #11 is shock bush(4.8mm) and the other says 5.8mm shock ball. Clearly 2 different parts IMHO since they don't fit properly. Not trying to be an a$$, just making it clear to others that the parts in the kit are NOT there to complete it. Tightening the plastic nuts will just strip them. The fix is to use nyloc nuts and a 1mm shim(plastic or aluminum) to crush the 4.8mm #11 from page 28 to expand it to fit better.
Last edited by tonyd; 10-05-2012 at 06:43 PM.
10-05-2012, 06:33 PM
#1117
The "shock bush" goes into the "ball end" which is labeled as 5.8mm.
I have built so many Kyosho cars that I tend to gloss over some of what the text says. I will agree that the manual should be more clear.
I don't have a car in hand and I am just going by what it says. I know the RB5 WC uses the same size "shock ball/bush" in the caps of the rear shocks. I also know that the balls/bush were in the bag with the shocks.
I wish I had a kit in hand to be able to look myself. It is possible that on the first batch that they did not put enough of the 5.8mm balls/bushes in all of the kits.
I have built so many Kyosho cars that I tend to gloss over some of what the text says. I will agree that the manual should be more clear.
I don't have a car in hand and I am just going by what it says. I know the RB5 WC uses the same size "shock ball/bush" in the caps of the rear shocks. I also know that the balls/bush were in the bag with the shocks.
I wish I had a kit in hand to be able to look myself. It is possible that on the first batch that they did not put enough of the 5.8mm balls/bushes in all of the kits.
10-05-2012, 06:51 PM
#1118
You know those metal pillars that go through the steering rack? So here I am frantically trying to mount it to the chassis, going over the 6(?) holes in the front plate. Won't fit no matter what I try. Go back to the manual, and it's suppose to fit right through FLUSH to the bulkhead! I mean when you're not awake even your common sense goes out the window.
Mistakes not only happen they compound over each other. But I won't go into that. Sorry, back to the rb6 topic.
Mistakes not only happen they compound over each other. But I won't go into that. Sorry, back to the rb6 topic.
lol.
You know what? I miss that stupid little triangle on the motor guard already. Tempted to put the one on the tree on for fun...
10-05-2012, 07:27 PM
#1120
Finished my build today, well almost. Still have to paint the body and wing. Came in at 1470g, minus body, wing and transponder.
Typical Kyosho quality build, first rate.
I had one small problem that took a while to fingure out. After I build the transmission(Rear mount), I noticed it didn't spin free. It would tighten up at regular intervals as I spun it. It turned out to be a little flashing on the inside of the idler gear. When the bearings were inserted(they were a very tight fit), it would distort the gear enough to when ever that portion of the idler contacted the diff gear, it caused a little excess drag. After deburring the idler gear, the bearings went in much easier, and the transmission spun like a top.
Typical Kyosho quality build, first rate.
I had one small problem that took a while to fingure out. After I build the transmission(Rear mount), I noticed it didn't spin free. It would tighten up at regular intervals as I spun it. It turned out to be a little flashing on the inside of the idler gear. When the bearings were inserted(they were a very tight fit), it would distort the gear enough to when ever that portion of the idler contacted the diff gear, it caused a little excess drag. After deburring the idler gear, the bearings went in much easier, and the transmission spun like a top.
10-05-2012, 07:51 PM
#1121
I guess you guys missed the point. A. its not correct in the manual either the part is supposed to be 5.8mm or there should be explanation in the manual to use a metal nut which is not in the kit(and I do read english and japanese), so how could you complete the car without the nuts. IMHO, there should be 5.8mm shock bushings not what others have used as a work around by compressing 4.8mm. Sure it works, but is it right for a $450 kit??? ahhhh no.
Hmmm, the manual might not specify but My kit had metal locknuts for the shocks.
10-05-2012, 11:57 PM
#1123
is there an aluminum steering rack yet for the rb6
10-06-2012, 12:40 AM
#1125
I guess you guys missed the point. A. its not correct in the manual either the part is supposed to be 5.8mm or there should be explanation in the manual to use a metal nut which is not in the kit(and I do read english and japanese), so how could you complete the car without the nuts. IMHO, there should be 5.8mm shock bushings not what others have used as a work around by compressing 4.8mm. Sure it works, but is it right for a $450 kit??? ahhhh no.
I don't really know about the quantity of locknuts in the kit, I ended up using anodized aluminum locknuts on my build. FWIW, if you look at the pics of Tebo's car used as the advertisement, it shows the plastic nuts being used. If your kit is missing parts you feel should be in there, give Kyosho America a call, I'm sure they'll be happy to rectify the situation. Hope the rest of the build has gone well for you. Once you hit the track, you'll forget all about the goofy manual
