Originally Posted by gelshocker

Not as much as I would like. I was meant to say hello (your car is the red/black fade one right?) but I caught myself in a really shitty mood. The track at Lali is 1/8 scale one needs more traction than steering. Service everywhere in HK is like that, take it as the local culture! Cheers,

Originally Posted by K_King

For me if I put the shims on top I feel like it doesn't dump over as much on entry.


"Moving the Steering Spindle Up and Down changes two things:

It changes the Total down travel your front end has. More Down travel in the front will give you more predictable landing off of jumps. It will also give you less steering as you exit the corner on power. Less Down Travel in the front will make your car less predictable landing off of jumps, such as sticking into the dirt like a lawn dart if you land extremely nose down. The advantage of less down travel is increased corner exiting steering when you are on power. I like to use this adjustment to quickly see if increasing or decreasing the downtravel in my shocks will provide the corner handling that I desire.




The spindle height will also change the amount of bump steer your car has. Lowering the spindle will give the front end more Bump-In. Raising the spindle will give the front end more Bump-Out. This is if you do not add or take out any washers under the steering ball end. Bump-In will give you more steering entering and through the corner. It will also make your car feel more aggressive to initial steering inputs. Bump-Out will give you less steering entering the corner but more through and exiting the corner. So in high speed sweepers Bump-Out will give you a more consistent steering “Feel”. Bump-Out will also dull some of the initial steering inputs. I personally like to use Zero bump in or out. So if I change the height of the spindle I have to add or subtract shims from under the ball end to keep the Bump at Zero."

Originally Posted by WagwanBumba

As for the B5Ms you say that were still on the ball when the track went, do you know what setups they were using?

Originally Posted by potatobed409

Thanks for the reply Kevin. So if I change spindle height then readjust bump and droop as before then there should be no difference in how the car behaves?

Originally Posted by gelshocker

I had the same issue back in RB5 days. The idea is to hold and 'lock down' the nut with an allen key, with the key itself held across the outdrive (slip it into the outdrive grooves). With your remaining 3 fingers grasp the entire diff.

With a _long_ flat head screwdriver, screw the diff screw into the nut. I bought a long flat head screwdriver for this one purpose only. Try to keep the screw straight.

The plastic nut piece can only be removed without breaking the ears off by inserting an allen key through the opposite side of the outdrive and pushing it (slowly) out. Get the Exotek diff nut.

Hope this works out for you. Never had a problem since. Cheers,

Originally Posted by CaseyD

Our track is sometimes unpredictable, some days the traction is sic, some days we cant seem to get the moisture just right and it gets super dry and dusty. In this order is where the cars fall off;
Pre-Maifield setups 22's in MM were the first cars to start getting loose,
Next were our RB6s in MM
And last, some how the B5Ms would still be hooking up.
Not sure where the Maifield set ups are going to fall in, no one at our track uses his setups, that I know of. The 4th hole mod and adding 50+ grams is very interesting.
All this talk about the new hole on the RB6 arm started for our track when Zack was trying to find the traction the AE had when the track went away.

Originally Posted by 3srcracing

Ill have to try that out next time. Unfortunately when I was pulling the nut piece out it did break. Is there an alternative to that piece (different brand or something). Or should I just order the Kyosho one and wait?

Originally Posted by AlanHall

Where was the discussion of adding the 50 grams ?

Originally Posted by blingy

Does anyone know where i can buy a bulk amout (25-50) metal 1mm spacers like for our ball studs? Thnx

Originally Posted by CaseyD

I was referring to Maifields set ups. He's running both side pod weights, the brass front rear suspension holder and weights next to his battery. That has to weigh 1750+ grams

Originally Posted by 3srcracing

What pistons are most running for medium bite track?

It seems like most are running either
1.4x3/1.6
1.4x3/1.4x3
55x2/55x2
or 1.6/1.5

What would you recommend?
Also 32.5/27.5 or 32.5/30?

Originally Posted by AlanHall

Hmm maybe that will help with my traction issues