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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-28-2014, 04:42 AM   #10981
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Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
Not as much as I would like. I was meant to say hello (your car is the red/black fade one right?) but I caught myself in a really shitty mood. The track at Lali is 1/8 scale one needs more traction than steering. Service everywhere in HK is like that, take it as the local culture! Cheers,
Ahhh! I saw an RB a few weeks ago. Can't remember the colour though :S Yes agree with more traction than steering. Crazy camber link configuration on the rear of my VBC Firebolt. Do say hi next time bro! Red/Black fade is my practice shell on the Firebolt.
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Old 10-28-2014, 06:52 AM   #10982
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
For me if I put the shims on top I feel like it doesn't dump over as much on entry.


"Moving the Steering Spindle Up and Down changes two things:

It changes the Total down travel your front end has. More Down travel in the front will give you more predictable landing off of jumps. It will also give you less steering as you exit the corner on power. Less Down Travel in the front will make your car less predictable landing off of jumps, such as sticking into the dirt like a lawn dart if you land extremely nose down. The advantage of less down travel is increased corner exiting steering when you are on power. I like to use this adjustment to quickly see if increasing or decreasing the downtravel in my shocks will provide the corner handling that I desire.




The spindle height will also change the amount of bump steer your car has. Lowering the spindle will give the front end more Bump-In. Raising the spindle will give the front end more Bump-Out. This is if you do not add or take out any washers under the steering ball end. Bump-In will give you more steering entering and through the corner. It will also make your car feel more aggressive to initial steering inputs. Bump-Out will give you less steering entering the corner but more through and exiting the corner. So in high speed sweepers Bump-Out will give you a more consistent steering “Feel”. Bump-Out will also dull some of the initial steering inputs. I personally like to use Zero bump in or out. So if I change the height of the spindle I have to add or subtract shims from under the ball end to keep the Bump at Zero."
Thanks for the reply Kevin. So if I change spindle height then readjust bump and droop as before then there should be no difference in how the car behaves?
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Old 10-28-2014, 07:49 AM   #10983
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Originally Posted by WagwanBumba View Post
As for the B5Ms you say that were still on the ball when the track went, do you know what setups they were using?
Im not sure if hes using a specific set up from a team driver. Hes not sponsored by AE but I know hes pretty close with some of the sponsored drivers. As for the 22 in RM, my sons 22 used to be awesome in RM, we were both set on trying MM and I just couldn't get his 22 to work in MM, tried JP Richards set up, Dakotahs set up. This was all before Maifield came over, not sure if his set ups would have worked but I know hes doing things no one else did.
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Old 10-28-2014, 08:39 AM   #10984
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Originally Posted by potatobed409 View Post
Thanks for the reply Kevin. So if I change spindle height then readjust bump and droop as before then there should be no difference in how the car behaves?
No, there will be. Remember it will be like changing the droop on your shocks, and you will have to adjust your ride height each time.
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:25 AM   #10985
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Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
I had the same issue back in RB5 days. The idea is to hold and 'lock down' the nut with an allen key, with the key itself held across the outdrive (slip it into the outdrive grooves). With your remaining 3 fingers grasp the entire diff.

With a _long_ flat head screwdriver, screw the diff screw into the nut. I bought a long flat head screwdriver for this one purpose only. Try to keep the screw straight.

The plastic nut piece can only be removed without breaking the ears off by inserting an allen key through the opposite side of the outdrive and pushing it (slowly) out. Get the Exotek diff nut.

Hope this works out for you. Never had a problem since. Cheers,
Ill have to try that out next time. Unfortunately when I was pulling the nut piece out it did break. Is there an alternative to that piece (different brand or something). Or should I just order the Kyosho one and wait?
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:27 AM   #10986
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Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
Our track is sometimes unpredictable, some days the traction is sic, some days we cant seem to get the moisture just right and it gets super dry and dusty. In this order is where the cars fall off;
Pre-Maifield setups 22's in MM were the first cars to start getting loose,
Next were our RB6s in MM
And last, some how the B5Ms would still be hooking up.
Not sure where the Maifield set ups are going to fall in, no one at our track uses his setups, that I know of. The 4th hole mod and adding 50+ grams is very interesting.
All this talk about the new hole on the RB6 arm started for our track when Zack was trying to find the traction the AE had when the track went away.
Everyone at my track runs Rear setups. I'm 1 of 3 people with kyosho and the b5s are always way more hooked up then our cars. Probably the fastest guy there has a rb6 but he's struggling for traction ad is winning mostly cause his skill level is higher. But he's doesn't seem to exciting with it .
I'm dieing for more traction and have a few things to try I discussed on the Kyosho FB page . Where was the discussion of adding the 50 grams ?
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:49 AM   #10987
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Hmmm ... all this talk of the B5 being more hooked ... maybe I'll get some more bits for the B5 and spend some more time setting it up
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Old 10-28-2014, 11:25 AM   #10988
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
Ill have to try that out next time. Unfortunately when I was pulling the nut piece out it did break. Is there an alternative to that piece (different brand or something). Or should I just order the Kyosho one and wait?
http://www.exotekracing.com/rb6-alloy-diff-nut/
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Old 10-28-2014, 12:08 PM   #10989
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Where was the discussion of adding the 50 grams ?
I was referring to Maifields set ups. He's running both side pod weights, the brass front rear suspension holder and weights next to his battery. That has to weigh 1750+ grams
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Old 10-28-2014, 12:46 PM   #10990
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Originally Posted by blingy View Post
Does anyone know where i can buy a bulk amout (25-50) metal 1mm spacers like for our ball studs? Thnx
Does anyone have an idea ?
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Old 10-28-2014, 01:51 PM   #10991
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I was referring to Maifields set ups. He's running both side pod weights, the brass front rear suspension holder and weights next to his battery. That has to weigh 1750+ grams
Hmm maybe that will help with my traction issues
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Old 10-28-2014, 04:28 PM   #10992
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What pistons are most running for medium bite track?

It seems like most are running either
1.4x3/1.6
1.4x3/1.4x3
55x2/55x2
or 1.6/1.5

What would you recommend?
Also 32.5/27.5 or 32.5/30?
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Old 10-30-2014, 04:36 AM   #10993
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
What pistons are most running for medium bite track?

It seems like most are running either
1.4x3/1.6
1.4x3/1.4x3
55x2/55x2
or 1.6/1.5

What would you recommend?
Also 32.5/27.5 or 32.5/30?
Front 3x1.4 TLR 32.5
Rear 2x1.6 TLR 27.5
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Old 10-30-2014, 04:44 AM   #10994
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Hmm maybe that will help with my traction issues
I came from the 22 2.0 and the cars feel similar on rear traction. The RB6 has more steering, which I have tamed down with the Schelle rack running outside hole. The Maifield setup on the 22 with all the extra weight really helped the car with traction and was by far the best setup I used on the 22. I'm running a shorty in the RB6 with the battery against the motor then added weight to the backside of the battery to equal a saddle pack but with the extra weight towards the motor. I really want to add the weight with a RF hanger made from brass like there using on the 22. That placement made the most difference on the 22.
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Old 10-30-2014, 07:29 PM   #10995
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Not necessarily rb6 related but anybody have an opinion on the D4 Maxzilla 17.5 vs the Fantom Ion w/12.5 mm high Torque rotor? I've read good things about the apex but it appears they are no longer available. Will be running 17.5 blinky.
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