Kuya_Kimo

iTrader: (90)

Kyosho diff with MIP pick system.

I'm a 17.5 racer and currently have the MIp puck system in my Rb6. The kyosho diff is WAY better than the MIP (feels like aslowciated) and want to know if you have experience with the kyosho balls/rings/thrust in the MIP puck system?

KalEl63

iTrader: (13)

So I finally got around to giving my Mid Mount a run on our local club track (not in a racing conditions so no timing)
I can see the potential in the MM working on it. I did make some adjustments while trying it and the car felt better as I did them.

It will be something I slowly work on but for now the RM still feels the best for me.

Teufel Racing

iTrader: (30)

Yes the shims for the rear blocks change anti squat. I think no shims under the rear block (none under the rear front block as well) gives the car 2 degrees of anti squat, which is the most you'll get unless you add shims to the rear front block.

Easiest way for a gain in side bite in MM?
Not sure if outside of an anti squat change, if there is one way that's easiest over another.
You could try changing the rear toe in, or changing the camber, or changing the rear camber link for more or less camber gain.

For me I usually run less rear toe in. I normally run on a high bite indoor track, where 3 degree of rear toe in might be too much, so I'll run 2-2.5 for rear toe in. Works for me while leaving the rest of the rear end setup as I'd normally run it.

Gitsum

iTrader: (1)

Easy to drive mm setup...
Front shocks 1.5/2 tapered 32.5 20mm shock length
White spring camber center on bulkhead 1mm up both sides
Shocks middle top outside on arm
25/2
Rear shocks 1.5/2 tapered 27.5 27mm shock length
White/gold spring second from inside on tower outside on arm
Rear hangers I run D in/D out with .5 degree rear hubs
Rear link outside on rear bulkhead very inside on hub
1 mm up on the inside n 2 mm up on the hub
Arms centered and hubs forward 24mm ride height front/rear
Give it a try has plenty of steering can be a touch aggressive.

Gitsum

iTrader: (1)

Double post...

the big rc

iTrader: (40)

I got to sit down and interview Joe Pillars team manager. We finally got to talk about worlds with Tebo. http://www.thebigrc.com/?p=5564

Thought it might be of interest to you guys.

KalEl63

iTrader: (13)

What surface do you use that set up on?

Holmberg418

iTrader: (10)

Tbh that is way off on a normal set up.

Gitsum

iTrader: (1)

It's a dirt clay mix tires are usually green barcodes, m4 ions or ss slingshots. Track is warehouse 3 search it on YouTube or goto w3racing. C o m. I believe there are videos there of the track.

Gitsum

iTrader: (1)

What is a normal setup? It has worked well for me try it you might like it.

lewis4x4

iTrader: (8)

I agree that it is completely different than what we have. Not that you might not found a golden secret but it is way different that what we run and see other run around here on medium high to high bite. The key though is finding what works for you. Never will one setup be for all.

Vincent_Diesel

iTrader: (2)

In preparation for the SC6 coming in the near future I am trying to find a base setup for it -- nothing out there as of yet.

I am using the Cody King MM setup on my RB6 and it was solid out of the gate. Since the SC6 is essentially the same platform would it be wise to start with the same MM setup?

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Hi All,

Slipper eliminators are in stock!

http://www.exotekracing.com/

Kuya_Kimo

iTrader: (90)

Quick update, the kyosho rings do not fit, you have to use the MIP rings with these outdrives. I miss my Kyosho ball diff........

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

I used the bfast kit (balls and thrust) to rebuild my pucks and it seems to be way smoother than the stock MIP kit stuff. Its almost as good as the bfast on the stock kyosho stuff. I did sand my rings flat on a piece of glass with a wet sandpaper stuck to it and the ring on the female outdrive.

The pucks is a must have for me. I do not miss replacing the driveshafts every month (with the stock Kyosho drivetrain with had flat spots fast).